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Old 06-18-2016, 03:29 PM   #31
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Ok....is there some possible way to get an auxiliary 10-12 gallon electric hot water heater and put it in basement somewhere?
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Old 06-18-2016, 07:22 PM   #32
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Anything is possible depends on how much you want to spend . you'll need it plumbed in correctly if in basement it should be electric only , then you may need to look at a separate electric panel and supply for it . that would require installing a 20amp supply new cord for it . etc
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Old 06-21-2016, 09:59 AM   #33
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Several days later this continues to be frustrating. Searched and found a post by Flybob that said having outside shower knobs on and spray handle off, causes cold to mingle. Asked that to be checked and was told it was off....but it was on. So turned it off two days ago.

Then figured out I had FWT valve open. Unsure why FWT has any water in it but sensor says 1/3. Shut that off.

Things maybe slightly better but still suck big weenies. Start shower water and after about 4 minutes it begins to get hot. Temp is plenty hot enough when it's hot. But hot only lasts about 1.5 minutes then it alternates hot/cold/hot/cold forever in about that cycle. Faucet same way....hard to shave.

2 others with this same new unit I've talked to do not have this intermittent issue.

So either I'm still doing something wrong or something is broken or not set right.

Lot of money to be this frustrated.
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Old 06-22-2016, 11:37 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BandJCarm View Post
Several days later this continues to be frustrating. Searched and found a post by Flybob that said having outside shower knobs on and spray handle off, causes cold to mingle. Asked that to be checked and was told it was off....but it was on. So turned it off two days ago.

Then figured out I had FWT valve open. Unsure why FWT has any water in it but sensor says 1/3. Shut that off.

Things maybe slightly better but still suck big weenies. Start shower water and after about 4 minutes it begins to get hot. Temp is plenty hot enough when it's hot. But hot only lasts about 1.5 minutes then it alternates hot/cold/hot/cold forever in about that cycle. Faucet same way....hard to shave.

2 others with this same new unit I've talked to do not have this intermittent issue.

So either I'm still doing something wrong or something is broken or not set right.

Lot of money to be this frustrated.

One possible idea. Most continuous heating HW heater are rated 1.5 gallons per minute with a set temp. rise. If the supply is very cold and the pressure is high, you exceed the heater capacity very quickly. However I'm still in the camp thinking there is a burner/electronic control problem.
You can try adding 40 psi reducer to your hose to see if it helps. If ground water warms you can probably remove the water regulator.
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Old 06-22-2016, 12:14 PM   #35
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Water pressure in campground very low. Already removed regulator....when I shut off outside shower faucet. However what you say makes sense.

I'm almost hoping it's a bad part somehow. It's on the list I gave Frog Bob so that's less than 2 months and techs can look at it.
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Old 06-24-2016, 01:41 PM   #36
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Continuing saga...

Got a suggestion from CC forum to fill FWT and shut off city water and see if shower stays hot. Good suggestion. But....

I filled fresh water tank. Sensors show full.

I turned fwt valve on to let it feed to camper. I turned off water at campground faucet. I shut city water intake valve. I turned on pump.

It pumps cold water in kitchen and in bar faucet. I hear pump running.

But there is no water coming out of either hot water faucet....None. no flow. Cold water working at both taps.

I swear....
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Old 06-24-2016, 01:47 PM   #37
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seems your problems then lie with valve being closed when they should not be or a kinked line somewhere .
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Old 06-24-2016, 01:57 PM   #38
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Only one hot water (red line) valve and I have not shut it or changed it. I had SOME Hot water on city feed. At least I had water flow!!!!
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:11 PM   #39
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Any possibility of posting a photo(s) of the plumbing near and around the water heater/pump?

There has to be a valve wrong (or bad) or something plumbed incorrectly.
Even if the water heater didn't work, water should flow from the hot faucet.

The only thing I can think of why you get water from the hot faucets when connected to city water and not when using pump is an increase of pressure. A kinked line or partially blocked valve could cause this. The increased city water pressure is partially pushing water through the obstruction but not well enough to work correctly and the lesser pressure from the pump won't allow flow at all.

But then again, I'm simply speculating.
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:18 PM   #40
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City water pressure is too low. That is reason it was suggested to use FWT and pump since Tankless hot water doesn't work on less than 2.5 gpm.
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