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Old 02-16-2016, 11:33 AM   #1
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Hot water problems and leaks in a weird spot? Salem CL 261BHXL

I have only two issues with our trailer and they seem to be ones that Camping World cannot figure out. (Mostly because they won't listen)

1. When we use our shower- it causes water to leak in the front of the trailer by the kitchen sink. Any ideas why or how to fix? It only leaks when you use the shower.

2. We seem to only get like a gallon or so of hot water. We have a 6 gallon tank but the water is only warm for a minute or so. Then it's lukewarm for about 4 minutes and then freezing!

I don't know if the two issues are related by I am so frustrated with it- I could scream!
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:42 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Kels4g View Post
I have only two issues with our trailer and they seem to be ones that Camping World cannot figure out. (Mostly because they won't listen)

1. When we use our shower- it causes water to leak in the front of the trailer by the kitchen sink. Any ideas why or how to fix? It only leaks when you use the shower.

2. We seem to only get like a gallon or so of hot water. We have a 6 gallon tank but the water is only warm for a minute or so. Then it's lukewarm for about 4 minutes and then freezing!

I don't know if the two issues are related by I am so frustrated with it- I could scream!
#2 is a very common occurrence that can be caused by incorrectly set bypass valves. Hold on and I will get you some links to help.
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:45 AM   #3
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Try here for more information on the bypass valve(s)

Water Heater Help

and here:

Hot water heater
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:19 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Kels4g View Post
I have only two issues with our trailer and they seem to be ones that Camping World cannot figure out. (Mostly because they won't listen)

1. When we use our shower- it causes water to leak in the front of the trailer by the kitchen sink. Any ideas why or how to fix? It only leaks when you use the shower.

2. We seem to only get like a gallon or so of hot water. We have a 6 gallon tank but the water is only warm for a minute or so. Then it's lukewarm for about 4 minutes and then freezing!

I don't know if the two issues are related by I am so frustrated with it- I could scream!
In reference to your #1 leaky shower: Water leaks can make us all scream because of how water amazingly travels creating that mystery of where the heck it's coming from...?!? When you say it only happens when the shower is used, then that's half the battle. The other half would be, is it traveling somehow from the shower diverter (inside the shower faucet wall) or, is it a single line (hot or cold supply line) issue within your cabinet/wall. I'm especially guessing since I don't know your floor plan. But, depending on how things are plumbed, it could even be coming from the shower drain...? Easy way to test: Put a bucket in your shower, let the bucket capture the running shower. If there is a leak, you would know it's NOT escaping from your drain. Then the focus would be on the supply lines or the diverter/shower faucet handles. Unscrew the shower head/hose off the faucet housing. The handles are typically front mounted and held in place with a small hex or allen screw of sorts. If you can pull the handles off, there's typically a plastic valve nut that holds the valve housing to the valves themselves and the plumb lines. Once you get that housing loosened up there should be a little bit of play with the plumb lines that are mounted on the back of the diverter. I'm assuming that, at this point, you may be able to see if there is any signs of leaking behind that fixture or in the wall. I would at this point, try to turn on the hot and/or cold valves (perhaps with pliers) to see if you find your leaking source.....?
Sure hope I haven't confused the matter and there's some sense of help here for you!
Best wishes
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:18 PM   #5
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Shower Leak

We've had the same problem with water leaking onto the kitchen floor. We found that the shower base wasn't caulked where it meets the shower wall and water was running down and under the wall and door. It stopped once it was sealed.

Regarding the lack of enough hot water, it sounds like you may have a problem somewhere with the gas valve not getting enough propane pressure. Spiders can get into the air supply causing reduced BTU's. I also assume the valves on the propane tank(s) are fully open and the lines fully open and checked for leaks. Good luck, but it can be a real mystery. Camping World should be able to find this!!
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:55 PM   #6
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wmtire gave you some very good reference to your hot water problem if the bypass valves or outside shower valves are in the incorrect positions. Be sure to check them.
Bypass valve problems 'typically' cause the hot water to come and go in cycles though, not start off warm, lukewarm and then get freezing.

From your description, it almost sounds to me like 'maybe' the water heater isn't coming up to full temperature before shutting off.

You didn't mention whether you were operating the WH on gas or electric.

If on gas, have you checked to see if the burner is functioning correctly? (ie: good flame and stays lit for several minutes. Mine takes about 10 minutes to come up to temperature on full flame at start-up)

If you were on electric, it's possible the hi-temp thermostat is faulty causing the element to shut off before coming up to proper temperature.

Just some things to consider.
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Old 02-16-2016, 02:06 PM   #7
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We have a propane water heater. I have not checked out the flame.

I will try all of these suggestions and hopefully something fixes it.

Thanks all!
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Old 02-16-2016, 02:28 PM   #8
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Water leaks

I have a new Rockwell 8325ss 3 weeks old when ever I turn heater on for hot water I develope a leak under the kitchen sink above the hot water heater. This leak is from the connection to the kitchen sink not sure how to tighten fitting is nut on facet end or tubing end and hard to get at under sink
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Old 02-16-2016, 06:08 PM   #9
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The specialty tool for tightening those nuts under the sink is called a "basin wrench". If the fittings are plastic, be careful not to overtighten them, something very easy to do with the wrench. They should seal when tightened no more than 1/4 turn after the compression washer makes contact.

If the leak is from where the nut assembly is inserted into the flexible pipe, you'll either need the special crimping tool to tighten it or will need to replace the crimp collar with a regular pipe clamp.

Most hardware stores should have the tool.

Phil
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Old 02-16-2016, 06:54 PM   #10
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So, I went outside and looked and I did not see any on/off switch for electric. I am not sure if there should be water in the bottom like that though or rust when it's not even a year old!

I can try to look again when it's actually light outside instead of relying on my cell phone cameras flash.
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