Hot Water Tank after Dewinterization

[sowbug]

I winterized my Surveyor TT last fall using AF for the first time myself. Last week, I dewinterized it myself (first time also) for a planned trip. Every thing seemed to work after dewinterization and no leaks were found. However, I had to cancel the trip and due to cold weather, I had to winterize it again.

The night before I winterized it again, I opened the freshwater tank and hot/cold water low point drains and left them open over night (with the inside facets open to allow it to drain as completely as possible). The next day when I went to finish the winterization, I took out the anode wire from the hot water heater and expected water to drain out, but nothing came out. Since the hot water heater was not in bypass , could it had siphoned water out of the tank when the low point drains were open over night?

I am concerned that perhaps I did not fill my hot water tank when I dewinterized. I ran the hot water in the sink and it took a while for water to come out so I assumed that it was taking time to fill the hot water heater. Just want to be sure that I did not make a mistake of some kind when dewinterizing. I know that you don't want to turn on the hot water heater without water in it.

Hope that was not too confusing.

[dennisjohnson]

Sure it could have

[B and B]

My Rockwood did that. Last camp of the season I would pull low point drains and open all taps inside and drive home. Most water was gone by the time i drove there.

[email]

If the water heater was not in bypass, it will (and is designed to) drain water through the low point drains.

[youroo]

This is a Bad practice to drain the W/H with the LPD! The "White Crud" will also flow Downstream and lodge in your water lines and fittings! Then the "White Crud" will/can work its way into your Valves and Toilet! Always drain your W/H from the W/H drain plug area,Not the LPDs! Youroo!! PS Sowbug, I find it Odd that you referred to the "Anode Rod" as a "Wire" if this is what yours looks like you Definitely have "White Crud" in your system!

[sowbug]

Thanks for your help everybody.


Youroo... thanks for pointing this out. My anode rod was more of a rod than a wire. I had only used it one season, but you make a very good point about the not draining the HWH through the low point drains. I will not do that again. Hopefully this one time will not cause major problems for me.

[KnC]

Originally Posted by email

If the water heater was not in bypass, it will (and is designed to) drain water through the low point drains.

So, given this, I have a question for everyone on the order of winterization items. I've only done it once, but in my winterization checklist (which I probably got somewhere on this site), I have draining the water lines (low point drain) and fresh water tank before draining the hot water heater. Would it be better to drain the hot water tank before draining the water lines and fresh water tank?

1) Drain black tank, grey tank and galley tank
2) Open kitchen sink hot and cold to let air flow in to drain the plumbing
3) Drain fresh water lines and fresh water tank.
4) Drain water filter.
5) Water heater. Pop pressure relief valve then take out plug to drain.
6) Bypass the hot water heater.
7) etc.

Thanks

[Flybob]

I think I would use the following order.
1) Drain black tank, grey tank and galley tank
2) Water heater. Pop pressure relief valve then take out plug to drain.
3) Bypass the hot water heater.
4) Open kitchen sink hot and cold to let air flow in to drain the plumbing
5) Drain fresh water lines and fresh water tank.
6) Drain water filter. Remove element

Opening the low point drains and sink faucets, will drain the WH through the water system. If there is white crud in the bottom of the WH, is can be drawn through the lines and end up clogging faucet screens or toilet valves later on. .

[androclesandrocles2]

Originally Posted by KnC

So, given this, I have a question for everyone on the order of winterization items. I've only done it once, but in my winterization checklist (which I probably got somewhere on this site), I have draining the water lines (low point drain) and fresh water tank before draining the hot water heater. Would it be better to drain the hot water tank before draining the water lines and fresh water tank?

1)Drain black tank, grey tank and galley tank
2)Open kitchen sink hot and cold to let air flow in to drain the plumbing
3)Drain fresh water lines and fresh water tank.
4)Drain water filter.
5)Water heater. Pop pressure relief valve then take out plug to drain.
6)Bypass the hot water heater.
7) etc.

Thanks

Bravo! [emoji122]

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Flybob

I think I would use the following order.
1) Drain black tank, grey tank and galley tank
2) Water heater. Pop pressure relief valve then take out plug to drain.
3) Bypass the hot water heater.
4) Open kitchen sink hot and cold to let air flow in to drain the plumbing
5) Drain fresh water lines and fresh water tank.
6) Drain water filter. Remove element

Opening the low point drains and sink faucets, will drain the WH through the water system. If there is white crud in the bottom of the WH, is can be drawn through the lines and end up clogging faucet screens or toilet valves later on. .

I do it pretty much like this except I do the water heater first, bypassing after empty. Then do the holding tanks and flush the black tank until clear.