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Old 01-22-2014, 03:16 PM   #21
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Just to forewarn; Suburban warns that installing a non-Suburban anode may void your warranty. the following was copied from their manual.

WARNING! Do not replace the anode rod with any non-Suburban
accessory part, such as an “add-on” electric heating element. Items such
as these are not approved to be installed in Suburban products. They
could create an unsafe condition and will also void all warranties.
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Old 01-22-2014, 03:28 PM   #22
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Very nice mod Al Fresco... thank you. This was kinda what I was looking for. It looks like you used regular pipe(mild steel) fittings, I was thinking about using brass. What are your opinions on that? Would the brass affect the electrolytical reaction? I am assuming that you had no continuity issues, and I'm not sure how brass will affect that either.Did you stick with the 9" rod or did you compensate for the extra length and go for a longer rod?
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Old 01-22-2014, 03:46 PM   #23
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IMO, it is just easier to remove the anode or plug and drain the tank. Remember to turn off the electric or unplug the shoreline. Ask me how I know that? Cost me a new element and thermostat.
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Old 01-22-2014, 04:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
IMO, it is just easier to remove the anode or plug and drain the tank. Remember to turn off the electric or unplug the shoreline.
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Old 01-22-2014, 04:39 PM   #25
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Dealer did tell me that most people wanna change out the plastic plug for a brass one but not to because it's designed to blow out if there's a prob. Although I thought that was what the pressure/temp relief was for. Redundancy??
Never heard that one. I was told that the plastic is less likely to cross-thread in the softer aluminum tank. Also since brass is a different metal than aluminum it will create galvanic corrosion(electrolysis?) and you might not be able to remove the plug. When I had an Atwood I always carried an extra plastic plug and a sprinkler nipple removal tool for when they break off.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:28 PM   #26
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Never heard that one. I was told that the plastic is less likely to cross-thread in the softer aluminum tank. Also since brass is a different metal than aluminum it will create galvanic corrosion(electrolysis?) and you might not be able to remove the plug. When I had an Atwood I always carried an extra plastic plug and a sprinkler nipple removal tool for when they break off.

I guess the dealer techs tell ya anything to shut you up. Your explanation makes sense. Thanks
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Old 01-23-2014, 12:38 PM   #27
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Thegreatoutdoors:

After a year, I have not observed any corrosion or continuity problems with the mild steel fittings. I would think that brass fittings would also be satisfactory (maybe preferable?). I had intended to use all brass fittings, but was unable to find what I needed at my local hardware store. I assume that brass fittings might be less susceptible to corrosion while still maintaining the desired electrolytic properties. Don't know for sure.

I continue to use the stock anode which appears to be eroding at the same rate as it did before I made the modification. With this mod, all the anode is still in contact with the water in the tank and the extension.

I recommend this mod for those who prefer to drain the tank after each trip. In my experience, it has greatly facilitated the process.
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:20 PM   #28
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Al Fresco:

Thanks for the great tip. I wouldn't think brass would have any adverse affects. What size pipe fittings did it require?, I think it was 3/4" but cant be sure. My TT is in the shop right now so I cant measure.
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:37 PM   #29
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I don't quit understand, If you want to flush your tank just open the relief valve and hook your hose to it where the 3/4" threads are. Remove the rod and turn the water hose on and flush your tank. If you you add galvanized pipe before the rod you will rust and have even a bigger problem after awhile. That "T" and nibble will rust out in a year or two. If you are going to do that you should be using brass as a tee. How many people flush your water heater at home? I could be wrong as always, but I just pull my rod after I let the pressure off and it will clean 90% of the crud that falls off the rod. It is more important to keep an eye on the water pump filter. You also want the whole rod in the tank. They only make one size that I have seen, so you would be losing about 3 to 4". That big nut is not galvanized it looks like stainless to me.
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:27 PM   #30
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thegreatoutdoors:

I think they were inch fittings. I don't have access to the Sunseeker right now to be certain. Perhaps you can get the information from the Suburban manual.

Gljurczyk:

I was concerned about corrosion when I did the mod on a test basis. So far, after more than a year, I am not observing any troubling signs of corrosion of the fittings and no evidence of rusting. As stated above, the anode rod appears to be eroding at the same rate as it was before the mod, so it seems to be functioning properly.

I prefer to drain the tank at the campground before leaving. This used to result in a mess when the anode rod was removed and all the water surged out on the ground at the site. With this mod, I attach a hose to the drain cock and direct the water away from the parking area into nearby vegetation. I can also now drain the water away from the vehicle parking pad when flushing the system at home.

I understand the this mod is not designed for those who do not empty the tank frequently and are not bothered by the residual water that accompanies emptying and flushing. However, it does eliminate the problems I was experiencing with my storage setup (gravel/dirt surface) and the way I use the system.
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