How to fill the water heater

[Czars]

We just purchased a Flagstaff T21QBHW A frame camper. I was wondering how I can tell if the water heater is filled. Can I just open the hot water spigot and know that the tank is full when water without air comes out? Does the hot water tank fill from either city water or the water storage tank?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Czars

We just purchased a Flagstaff T21QBHW A frame camper. I was wondering how I can tell if the water heater is filled. Can I just open the hot water spigot and know that the tank is full when water without air comes out? Does the hot water tank fill from either city water or the water storage tank?

Make sure bypass valves are in the right position and open the pressure relief valve until water comes out.

[f5moab]

Some great info on hot water heates. Scroll down to see about the valves Old Coot referenced.
I have two on mine, one to allow water into the heater (bottom valve), one for hot water from the heater (TOP valve) and just before these valves is a pipe that connects the cold to the hot water lines. This allows the water heater to be bypassed.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html

[Czars]

Thanks! I looked at my setup and it appears to be the same arrangment. Mine also has two small valves in hot and cold lines going through the floor that probably go to the outside shower. I'll have to check that. Looks to me that I should be able to open the sink hot water spigot, with the city water or the pump turned on, and wait until water with no air comes out. Didn't see any easy way to drain the hot water tank. Is there a way?

[f5moab]

The anode rod. Looks like a large nut (I believe 1 1/16") at the bottom of the water heater tank, stand off to the side, unscrew and pull the anode rod. And I say stand to the side, water will come out a good three feet. Also, that anode rod can fly out so be careful.


When winterizing the trailer in the winter, drain the hot water heater tank, then turn the valves to bypass the tank and then add the anti-freeze. That way you are not winterizing the hot water tank and using a bunch of anti freeze. If the tank is drained no hard will come to it.

[lakejumper]

You need to drain it by removing the outside panel and take out the anode (if you have one) or remove the plug. Make sure the heating element is turned off, the water has cooled and release the pressure valve. Stand to the side when you remove the anode as the water will gush out. You may want to get a hot water tank rinse attachment for your garden hose for rinsing out the mineral deposits out the tank and check the anode for corrosion. I always carry a spare anode. You may not need to replace it but one to two times a year (if that) based on how often you camp and the quality of the water in the parks.

Edit: It appears that f5moab was responding at the same time I was so his post beat me out! His pictures are very helpful

[Czars]

Thanks for your posts. They help a lot. Are replacement anodes easy to come by?

[DavidBo]

This is another option, but you'll need an adapter to fit the larger hole in your heater.
Camco RV Water Heater Anode Rod w/ Drain - 1/2" Diameter x 4-1/2" Long Camco Accessories and Parts CAM11533

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Czars

Thanks for your posts. They help a lot. Are replacement anodes easy to come by?

You can get anode rods at any RV place or Home Depot/Lowes/Menards, etc.

[jk510]

Don't forget to turn off all city water faucets and your water pump first. (Don't ask)

[aceinspp]

Originally Posted by f5moab

The anode rod. Looks like a large nut (I believe 1 1/16") at the bottom of the water heater tank, stand off to the side, unscrew and pull the anode rod. And I say stand to the side, water will come out a good three feet. Also, that anode rod can fly out so be careful.


When winterizing the trailer in the winter, drain the hot water heater tank, then turn the valves to bypass the tank and then add the anti-freeze. That way you are not winterizing the hot water tank and using a bunch of anti freeze. If the tank is drained no hard will come to it.

Only time the water will gush out is if you raise the relive valve when trying to remove the rod. Remove rod first then open relive valve. Later RJD

[f5moab]

I had the rod almost fly about a foot with water going about two feet without the pressure relief valve open. I would imagine if you relieve the pressure it won't fly out; I'll try that next time. Second time I made sure to hold on good and there was a lot of pressure.

[f5moab]

Originally Posted by DavidBo

This is another option, but you'll need an adapter to fit the larger hole in your heater.
Camco RV Water Heater Anode Rod w/ Drain - 1/2" Diameter x 4-1/2" Long Camco Accessories and Parts CAM11533

Looks like a decent idea, but not sure how to tighten the anode. Not enough room to get in there and turn much of a quarter turn with a crescent or open or boxed end wrench that why I use a socket, short extension and a ratchet. At least that is how it s on my popup.
I guess you could install the rod first then the drain valve.

[lonewolf465]

Originally Posted by f5moab

The anode rod. Looks like a large nut (I believe 1 1/16") at the bottom of the water heater tank, stand off to the side, unscrew and pull the anode rod. And I say stand to the side, water will come out a good three feet. Also, that anode rod can fly out so be careful.


When winterizing the trailer in the winter, drain the hot water heater tank, then turn the valves to bypass the tank and then add the anti-freeze. That way you are not winterizing the hot water tank and using a bunch of anti freeze. If the tank is drained no hard will come to it.

I find it is better to open the relief valve to let the pressure out before removing the anode rod. The anode rod won't fly out if this is done first.

[rockfordroo]

Open relief valve to remove pressure. Close relief valve. Remove anode. Water will start coming out, but air will try to go in. Stand out of the way and open the relief valve; air will go in the relief valve and water will pour of the anode/drain.

[johnbryanpeters]

Originally Posted by DavidBo

This is another option, but you'll need an adapter to fit the larger hole in your heater.
Camco RV Water Heater Anode Rod w/ Drain - 1/2" Diameter x 4-1/2" Long Camco Accessories and Parts CAM11533

Not too useful - the anode should be pulled each year for inspection, ideally replaced each year - it's cheap insurance.

[DavidBo]

Originally Posted by jk510

Don't forget to turn off all city water faucets and your water pump first. (Don't ask)

And open a hot water faucet to relieve the pressure. Again...don't ask!
I didn't do this and even though it was days after I had disconnected the water connection, I still got blasted with water when I removed the anode. Fortunately it was cold, I shudder to think of the burns I would have gotten otherwise.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by DavidBo

And open a hot water faucet to relieve the pressure. Again...don't ask!
I didn't do this and even though it was days after I had disconnected the water connection, I still got blasted with water when I removed the anode. Fortunately it was cold, I shudder to think of the burns I would have gotten otherwise.

Why don't you just open the relief valve? It's right there.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Why don't you just open the relief valve? It's right there.

Exactly


2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"
2016 nights camped "25"

[DavidBo]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Why don't you just open the relief valve? It's right there.

Because on mine the T&P outlet is pointed directly towards the gas solenoid valve and all it's wires. I'd rather keep that on the dry side if possible!
I'd rather release all that heat and pressure in a nice, safe sink.