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Old 12-14-2014, 11:33 AM   #1
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How to Remove On-Board Water Filter

I know this as been discussed elsewhere on these forums, but I need a bit of specific advice on how to remove my onboard water filter.

After reading all the comments here, I definitely want to remove my onboard water filter and use an external filter instead.

I've got a 2014 Rockwood 8329 with a filter that's underneath the bathroom sink. It looks like the there are two lines coming into the canister - one from the city water connection, the other from the fresh water tank, and of course the "out" hose that supplies all the sinks, toilet, etc.

The three lines are not PEX, but white braided hose, and they're connected with what looks like crimping rings, so I'm guessing I'll need to cut the white hose in those three locations. Here then are my questions:

What fittings would I use to join the lines once I've removed the filter? Are there fittings that work with this white braided hose, and would hose clamps work instead of crimping rings? (I don't have a crimping tool.)

Also, I'm guessing I'll need some sort of "T" fitting, to that the two in-lines feed into the one out-line?

Finally, will I need a check-valve on the line that comes from the fresh water tank (to prevent city water back-flow into the tank) or, does the pump itself serve as a check valve?

Again, to anyone who's done this, your advice would be appreciated!
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Old 12-14-2014, 11:45 AM   #2
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I did not.
And if that can make you feel better...it is my 3rd Rockwood trailer with the filter system and never had a problem with it.
The only down side is replacement cost of filter...but I figure it's a small price to pay to have good tasting & clean water to drink.
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Old 12-14-2014, 11:57 AM   #3
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Have you thought about just removing the filter and leaving the canister in-place?
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Old 12-14-2014, 11:59 AM   #4
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I replaced my filter this summer. I just cut off the clamps using a Dremel with cutoff wheel and used existing T fitting on the one side and bought a brass coupler for the other side. I used a piece of PEX to connect where filter was. Of course you have to buy a 6 ft piece of PEX for about 5 inches but it's cheap. My filter didn't have a check valve so I didn't add one, I guess there is already a check valve somewhere or the pump acts as one. Without a Dremel it would be a much more involved job. I think it took me 15 or 20 minutes for the entire job. And I do have an Oteker (sp) tool and clamps. Not a bad thing to have if you own an RV! Don't think I would trust hose clamps.
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Old 12-14-2014, 12:55 PM   #5
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I have a filter on mind and I don't see you guys reason for disregard it.I never had a problem with mind.Why disconnect it and add a portable one to your hose. For drinking water I take water with me.But beer is better.
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Old 12-14-2014, 01:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyBass View Post
I have a filter on mind and I don't see you guys reason for disregard it.I never had a problem with mind.Why disconnect it and add a portable one to your hose. For drinking water I take water with me.But beer is better.
I hear what you are saying but a LOT of people have had their canister unscrew itself. That would be like having a hose on full blast inside the RV. After reading numerous accounts of that happening I decided to just remove that possibility from happening. It certainly doesn't have to be done.
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Old 12-14-2014, 01:42 PM   #7
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The way it is designed, at least on the 8329, makes it just about impossible to unscrew accidently. One needs to push the canister up and rotate it to unlock and reverse the procedure to lock it. The suggestion to just take the filter out is your best...or enjoy both.
I'd be more concerned with the disconnect option leaking then I would the original canister.

Now...if they did replace the filter and did not lock the canister properly...then you will have a problem.
To get a strong lock on mine, I unscrewed the bracket from the wall and made sure the canister locked and turned a full 1/4 turn before I screwed it back in place.
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Old 12-14-2014, 01:49 PM   #8
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I second Cub's suggestions. I removed my filter and braided hoses and used PEX fittings and special stainless cinch clamps to replace them. Where the filter was, I added a metal PEX shut-off on the incoming water supply so when you hook up city water and turn it on you don't have to worry about something inside the camper leaking while you are still outside.
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Old 12-14-2014, 01:51 PM   #9
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I just can't understand how it can unscrew itself.
I need to put a fair amount of twisting pressure with the special tool to unscrew mine, holding the canister head with one hand to prevent it from tearing from the wall.
Same thing putting it back on to fully lock it in place. I have the KW1.
I know some might not lock the same, but still.
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Old 12-14-2014, 02:26 PM   #10
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Re-posting: On-board filter hard to get to in our 2014 8528 IKWS. (In kitchen, behind fake cabinet door, leak potential is huge.) Our new unit never had its filter installed, but Canister was full of water. Release water pressure by opening a faucet. Remove canister. (catch water, lots of "blue towels", keep your floor dry) Remove 4-screws holding filter to wall; remove inlet & outlet--not easy to do--fittings. Replace with a standard coupler, using teflon tape at all connections. Remember to put connector onto line before installing second half of coupler. Final teflon wrap and then use ties to suspend fitting above floor. No cutting any plastic or pressure fittings-no new leaks-just standard screw together fittings from now on.
We now use a twin canister, two-stage, large, standard, water filter mounted on a portable rack outside near the water inlet. Easier to clean, repair, maintain, and replace AND with any, and all, leaking-outside the rig. I’ll try to figure out how to attach 4 pictures.
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