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Old 01-30-2015, 06:26 PM   #1
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I may have done something STUPID with water heater....

I just picked up my RV from being in the shop 3 weeks for a stress crack repair. Sunseeker 3170.

I had the dealer winterize the system before sending to the body shop for repair. So, NO water was in system.

Ok, I get to RV park. I filled up my water tank. Here is where the stupidity went in.

I turned on the water heater BEFORE I pressurized the system. I think the water heater was on about 30 minutes before I ran water through it.

I realized this, and turned water heater off, and just ran water cold through the system.

Am I going to start seeing problems with my water heater? Due to stupidity?
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Old 01-30-2015, 06:33 PM   #2
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Unfortunate event. Water heater on with no water, element probably toast. I think it needs water to keep the element from burning up. Usually not a very expensive repair. Can happen to anyone, especially when you get in a hurry. Let us know how it works out.

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Old 01-30-2015, 06:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DXSMac View Post
I turned on the water heater BEFORE I pressurized the system. I think the water heater was on about 30 minutes before I ran water through it.
If "was on" means the electric side was on and not just the propane system, you have ruined your electric heating element. If you are talking about running the propane system only, you may have a different problem.
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Old 01-30-2015, 06:43 PM   #4
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I did the exact same thing last weekend-forgot that I had purged all the water out of the water heater. I only have propane so it turned on for about ten minutes then I heard steam coming from the pressure valve. Added water to the heater and flipped switch and nothing. Removed outside panel and pressed reset button and it fired up and all was good.

Hope yours is just as easy.


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Old 01-30-2015, 06:54 PM   #5
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As mentioned above, If you turned on the electric side of the water heater and you were connected to shore power ( 110VAC) you burned out the heating element. It takes less than a few seconds. You can still use the WH on propane. Replacement element is relatively inexpensive, parts lots less than labor.
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Old 01-30-2015, 08:09 PM   #6
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Ok, I know an RV dealer that does service on Saturday, so I have an appointment for tomorrow.
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Old 01-30-2015, 08:31 PM   #7
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Ok, I know an RV dealer that does service on Saturday, so I have an appointment for tomorrow.
It's an extremely easy and inexpensive fix. Watch how they do it so you feel comfortable making the repair yourself. It's always a good idea to pull your electric anode at least once a year for inspection and flushing the tank anyway.

No permanent damage done.
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:02 AM   #8
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So it's the anode rod they have to pull? Aw man, I had the RV dealer in Chehalis (where the body shop was) replace the anode rod.......
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:25 AM   #9
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You need to replace the heating element, not the anode rod. That is what burned out when you ran it with no water. The heating element is what heats the water. The anode rod is simply a sacrificial rod that prevents corrosion of the HW tank. In the attached photo. The rod on the left is new. The rod on the right is totally gone. I would not wait to get to the point where mine looked like the one on the right. The anode rod should be checked once or twice a year depending on the water quality. They are very simple to replace as you simply remove it and if needed, screw in the new one.
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:29 AM   #10
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View this video for info.....

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Old 01-31-2015, 10:38 AM   #11
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So it's the anode rod they have to pull? Aw man, I had the RV dealer in Chehalis (where the body shop was) replace the anode rod.......
Unfortunately, yes. New or old, it only takes a couple of breaths to toast an anode when no water is present. Most of the time all it takes is a new rod... $20 bucks and 10-15 minutes.

If it was on for 30 minutes, and changing the anode does not provide hot water, then it's possible the temp relay could have been damaged as well. But that's only another $10 and 5 minutes. Again.. no long term damage with a fired relay either.

Point being.. if you are taking your rig in to have it done for you, don't let them just change out your anode and send you on your way. Make sure you are getting hot water before you leave.

Most of all, this falls under the "little things" category.. don't sweat it. I know more than a few very seasoned full timers that have done the same exact thing.. repeatedly! Not me of course (whistling casually to the side).
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:42 AM   #12
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Unfortunately, yes. New or old, it only takes a couple of breaths to toast an anode when no water is present. Most of the time all it takes is a new rod... $20 bucks and 10-15 minutes.

If it was on for 30 minutes, and changing the anode does not provide hot water, then it's possible the temp relay could have been damaged as well. But that's only another $10 and 5 minutes. Again.. no long term damage with a fired relay either.

Point being.. if you are taking your rig in to have it done for you, don't let them just change out your anode and send you on your way. Make sure you are getting hot water before you leave.

Most of all, this falls under the "little things" category.. don't sweat it. I know more than a few very seasoned full timers that have done the same exact thing.. repeatedly! Not me of course (whistling casually to the side).
Yarome, not to confuse OP, it is the electric "element" that needs replacement and not the "anode"....
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
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You need to replace the heating element, not the anode rod. That is what burned out when you ran it with no water. The heating element is what heats the water. The anode rod is simply a sacrificial rod that prevents corrosion of the HW tank. In the attached photo.
I don't know why these facts are so HARD to comprehend... but it seems like someone furthers the misconception every month that the anode rod is the "heater" or they are mad that the anode rod is metal with a metal threaded end instead of plastic.
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:59 AM   #14
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fonzie, thank you for posting the video. Very useful.
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:03 AM   #15
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The electric element and the anode rod are often confused on the Suburban water heater (as well as the terminology for the two) since they are almost side by side on the heater.....even though they are two total different things.

The easiest way to remember, is if it has electric wires going to it, it's the electric heating element. You usually have to remove the gas flue pipe and then a cover to access the heating element.

No Wires, then it's the sacrificial anode rod, that is what you also remove to drain the water heater. This anode will also need periodic replacement, as it "sacrifices" itself so the tank won't rust out. That's the reason the rod is used at the drain location, so you can keep your eye on it each time you drain the heater, to see if it needs replacing.

As far as replacing the electric heating element, KyDan has a great tutorial with pics, in our FAQ section:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...d-r-50292.html

EDIT: I took and edited one of Dan's pics for his tutorial above, to show the location of the electric heating element and anode rod. The gas pipe has already been removed in the pic.
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:29 AM   #16
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As mentioned above, If you turned on the electric side of the water heater and you were connected to shore power ( 110VAC) you burned out the heating element. It takes less than a few seconds.
Not necessarily true. I made this mistake and my element survived 20 minutes before I filled the WH. it has worked fine for a year now.
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:51 AM   #17
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I burnt out the electric element on my previous trailer. It was an easy fix once I got the old element out. Extracting the old element, even with the correct tool, was a tough job that required a lot of brute strength to start the turn and without being too heavy handed where I would have caused further damage to the side of the trailer. Lesson learned. I now always make sure I have water in the tank before adding the power.
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:51 AM   #18
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Have both the heater element and anode replaced and the tank flushed, one stop all done!
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Old 01-31-2015, 12:42 PM   #19
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DX are you getting hot water? I would try it before I went through the hassle of changing it.
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:06 PM   #20
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Don't feel bad. Been there, done that!
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