I thought I had it all fixed...

[JimnSylvia]

First off- we live in our 5'er in So Cal; that means no winterizing, no shutting down to move.

I had my whole house water filter (Water Pur) housing break at the threads and shoot off like a bomb. I took the thing out- hard to access anyway. Did a good job with that, if I do say so myself.

All that may even be beside the point- here lies the real problem...

Husband noticed that the indicator light on the water heater indoor gas switch was not coming on, and called it to my attention a month ago. I forgot all about it. For the little amount we use hot water (showers in the facilities, dishes for two) seemed like there was plenty. We only turn the WH on a half hour before we need hot water. Turn it off after a 30 minute timer goes off. I hadn't paid much attention to the light until this filter thing happened.

Now I see I either get no light, or it stays on a long time. I flipped it on and went outside to see if I would hear the gas and the click, click, click and the whoosh. I did. I waited for the 30 minutes. turned it off as per usual, and checked the water temp by flow from the kitchen sink. It was not hot. The water from the cold tap was, during the course of it's flow, hotter than the WH "hot" water! (Our bare hose is on the west, sunny side of the trailer, hence, solar heated water.)

I thought I was out of gas (isn't that what the constant on of the indicator light means?). Actually had 3.5 gallons left in my 7 gal tank. More in the secondary one. Turned on all 3 of my stove burners for a few minutes- they all light up quite nicely, although we rarely use them to cook. So I know the regulator valve is working.

In double checking the tank for full capacity, I opened the pressure valve, which decided not to reclose: replaced it.

Where do I begin? I have pressed all the reset buttons, pushed all the connections, flipped all the switches... I can use the electricity (as far as I know) but with the AC running full-blast, it flipped a breaker! (Yes, I know I have some electrical issues...) Its an SW6DE.

So what should I do and how do I do it? I have already called in the warrantee people twice for unrelated incidents- they're going to think I am try to get a new home piece by piece! )

I know this was long, but if you read it, I so thank you for your patience and help!

[wmtire]

Howdy Sylvia, let's see if we can get you fixed up.

I am assuming when you are talking about the light on the gas switch, that's the fault/reset light. If so, this light ONLY comes on until the propane ignites. As long as the propane ignites when the thermostat calls for it to, then the light will go off. Also if the water is heated inside the tank, then the thermostat won't call for the Direct Spark Ignitor (the clicking sound you hear) to ignite the propane until the water temperature goes below a certain temp.

If the propane fails to ignite, then the fault/reset light will stay illuminated. This light has nothing to do with the amount of propane in your tank....but is related should you run out of propane in the tank, then the water heater will always FAIL to ignite (no propane to ignite), thus the light coming/staying on then.

This may help:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html

Is the propane igniting and heating the water?

If the propane is igniting, and the water is hot inside the heater (you can check by opening the outside relief valve on the water heater tank itself)...then your problem is in the piping system.

If water is hot in the heater but not the pipes/taps then I have more questions:

Has this problem just appeared with no interaction on your part? Have you altered the bypass valve(s) behind the water heater lately, changed faucets out, used your outdoor or indoor shower wands(forgetting to shut the taps off but instead shutting the water off at the wands)?

There's also a possibility of a bad check valve/backflow preventer at the water heater (if equipped).

[JimnSylvia]

Thanks, wmtire!

I have not changed a thing except the pressure release valve. And that was after things went wrong.

The weather here has been in the "hunnerds"- it's 99 degrees right now... The blazing sun hits right on the WH cover, and as I said, on the hose. Getting a hose worth of hot water is no problem. Maybe the thermostat thinks the water is hot enough? Never thought to try it in the cool, cool, cool of the evening. (I'll set my alarm...cool doesn't come 'til 4 am or so! )

[JimnSylvia]

Tried the gas again this morning since nothing is "solar" heated in the a.m. and it came on for a little while, but the water only got lukewarm.

Then I turned it on to electric. It warmed the water up to about 100 degrees or so. Not hot enough for doing dishes!

Think it's the thermostat? Now, how do I replace it? Where to I find the parts?

Thanks!

[Herk7769]

Lukewarm water is usually a winterizing valve left in bypass, but in your case is is more likely a shower wand left in the "shut off" position and the faucet valves left "open."

This allows "cold" water to enter the "hot" water pipes at the faucet when another faucet is opened.

Remember it could be the "outside" shower wand and faucet as well.

[2013leprechaun319dsf]

Have you tried cleaning the Venturi? May be bugs or wasp nests or spiders.


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[jk510]

You say you hear the click, click, click and whoosh of the lighting cycle. Have you checked to see if the flame stays on? There is a circuit that senses if the flame lit or not. Once the flame comes on if the sensor does not detect it the gas flow will be shut off. It will try and light a few times then quit and turn the light on. If this is the case then it could be either the sensor or the control module.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by jk510

You say you hear the click, click, click and whoosh of the lighting cycle. Have you checked to see if the flame stays on? There is a circuit that senses if the flame lit or not. Once the flame comes on if the sensor does not detect it the gas flow will be shut off. It will try and light a few times then quit and turn the light on. If this is the case then it could be either the sensor or the control module.

The flame sensor and the control module are actually the same part. The control board uses the ions created in the flame itself to "sense" that the flame is there.