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Old 05-16-2016, 04:51 PM   #11
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The issue with using a hot water faucet on an RV to check if the tank is full is that if the unit is left in the winterized position you'll get plenty of water out of the faucet and the hot water tank will be completely empty. That's why you'll see plenty of recommendations to open the T&P valve on RV water heaters.
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Old 05-16-2016, 04:54 PM   #12
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Also be careful opening the relief valve if it's been heating water....you can get burned!!!...don't stand in front of it...stand off to the side.
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Old 05-16-2016, 05:12 PM   #13
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I am a plumber, so don't open the relief valve on the water heater. If som trash gets in it the valve will leak. Open a hot water faucet to bleed the air or check if you have hot water
Howdy bsmith001, I am kinda curious about this comment from you being a professional plumber. I can certainly understand how many times ya probably are called out due to a leaking pressure relief valve...... but since it IS a safety device, shouldn't it be tested at least yearly to make sure it isn't faulty?

If you never open it, then how do you know it's not seized up, and thus would fail to open if need be?

I would think that at least opening up your pressure relief valve once a year (as when dewinterizing your RV) would be a prudent thing to do to make sure the safety device could function if needed....and as Bama Rambler explained, if your bypass/crossover valve is incorrect, opening the faucets aren't a sure sign that there is water in the heater.

I know my Rheem water heater at my house recommends testing the pressure relief valve TWICE a year, as the function is fully explained in their article below:

http://www.rheem.com/docs/FetchDocum...3-710821ace0dd

These are just my thoughts on the subject and your mileage may vary.
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Old 05-16-2016, 05:42 PM   #14
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I am a plumber, so don't open the relief valve on the water heater. If som trash gets in it the valve will leak. Open a hot water faucet to bleed the air or check if you have hot water
X2 when winterizing i open the valve to drain the tank, never with hot water present.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:20 PM   #15
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Howdy bsmith001, I am kinda curious about this comment from you being a professional plumber. I can certainly understand how many times ya probably are called out due to a leaking pressure relief valve...... but since it IS a safety device, shouldn't it be tested at least yearly to make sure it isn't faulty?

If you never open it, then how do you know it's not seized up, and thus would fail to open if need be?

I would think that at least opening up your pressure relief valve once a year (as when dewinterizing your RV) would be a prudent thing to do to make sure the safety device could function if needed....and as Bama Rambler explained, if your bypass/crossover valve is incorrect, opening the faucets aren't a sure sign that there is water in the heater.

I know my Rheem water heater at my house recommends testing the pressure relief valve TWICE a year, as the function is fully explained in their article below:

http://www.rheem.com/docs/FetchDocum...3-710821ace0dd

These are just my thoughts on the subject and your mileage may vary.
You sure can open it but I would have a spare just in case it would start leaking
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:46 AM   #16
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The original poster has not returned so we hope he got his answer!
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:59 AM   #17
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we have all been the new person at one point or another. dont worry about asking questions. We would rather you enjoy and relax then get frustrated of a simple problem

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Old 05-17-2016, 10:28 AM   #18
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Test the pressure relief valve on the hot water tank to check for water. If it does not seal when you release it then test it again a piece of debris may be in the valve and the second test should dislodge the debris or a third or fourth time. The problem comes when people open the valve to drain the hot water tank faster. It will vacuum oxidation from inside the valve into the assembly.
Also be sure to check the drain plug. It is a hex head looking plug (1 1/8" ~) it may be plastic or metal and possibly have a sacrificial anode on the inside of it. If all is good start the heater and watch for leaks. If something leaks, cool the tank and repair the leak.
On a side note be sure to have a pressure regulator on the city water connection and DO NOT run your pump if tied to city water, it will destroy the pressure switch and possibly the pump as well.
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Old 05-17-2016, 12:01 PM   #19
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I am a plumber, so don't open the relief valve on the water heater. If som trash gets in it the valve will leak. Open a hot water faucet to bleed the air or check if you have hot water
That has been my experience as well. Wound up replacing a 40 WH last year when a presure relief valve started leaking and could not be removed and replaced due to design. DW can open a hot water faucel while I run around doing outside setup stuff.
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:37 PM   #20
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That has been my experience as well. Wound up replacing a 40 WH last year when a presure relief valve started leaking and could not be removed and replaced due to design. DW can open a hot water faucel while I run around doing outside setup stuff.
OK we have to remember this is NOT a 40 year old WH. It is a new RV water heater. The ONLY way to be SURE the WH is full of water is to open the safety relief valve and check for water. Any other way does not make sure the tank is full. Opening a hot faucet gets water but did it come from the HW tank or BYPASS the tank??

Pull the safety valve. Let it snap shut. IF it drips- pull and let is snap
again. If it drips and repeated flush and snap do not stop it you can replace it. That is highly unlikely on a new or late model RV.

As we all know turning on the 120v AC to an empty water heater is instant death to the heating element.
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