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Old 05-16-2016, 10:06 AM   #1
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I'm newbie sorry for dumb question!

I am a first time travel trailer owner and we have a new 2017 Cherokee. My dumb question is: we have a permanent water hookup for our trailer and I'm not certain how the water heater works by doing this? Does my fresh water tank need to constantly be full and that's where the hot water comes from or will the water be heated somehow when I am just hooked up to my permanent water supply? I don't want to damage anything and I can't find any info in my manuals or on the Forest River site. Thanks for any help!!
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:08 AM   #2
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Hooked up to a permanent water hook you will be fine, hot water heater will fill from both ways.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:12 AM   #3
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IF you are hooked to city water your water heater will fill IF THE WINTERIZING BYPASS VALVES ARE SET FOR SUMMER MODE.
This is VERY important. The only real way to tell if the water heater is full of
water is to open the outside hatch on the water heater and pull the safety pop off valve handle near the top. If water comes out you should be good to go. If air or nothing comes out you need to turn some valves. Check for water at the safety valve and get back to us.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:16 AM   #4
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If you have a water heater that has an electric element you need to make absolutely sure it's full of water before turning the power on to the element.

It's easy to do. Just open the outside water heater cover and slowly lift the lever on the P&T (pop-off) valve. If water comes out, you're good, If air comes out, hold it open a little until water comes out.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marshalltkdb View Post
I am a first time travel trailer owner and we have a new 2017 Cherokee. My dumb question is: we have a permanent water hookup for our trailer and I'm not certain how the water heater works by doing this? Does my fresh water tank need to constantly be full and that's where the hot water comes from or will the water be heated somehow when I am just hooked up to my permanent water supply? I don't want to damage anything and I can't find any info in my manuals or on the Forest River site. Thanks for any help!!
Like most RV's your water heater gets its supply from the RV water line after the tank/outside water supply. Unless you have a bypass system for the heater, water is always going to it from what ever supply you have.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:21 AM   #6
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we have all been the new person at one point or another. dont worry about asking questions. We would rather you enjoy and relax then get frustrated of a simple problem

as the others have said a city connection is all you need for hot water. your fresh tank is for when you dont have a city connection then you must make sure that the water pump is also on
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:40 AM   #7
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Your plumbing system looks more or less like this:
Attached Files
File Type: pdf RV Plumbing pic.pdf (118.1 KB, 292 views)
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Old 05-16-2016, 11:28 AM   #8
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asking question is good, also when you are looking for information you can also use you tube
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:34 PM   #9
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They say the only dumb questions are the ones that were never asked. This is how we learn. This forum is the greatest. Keep asking questions.??????????��
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:40 PM   #10
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I am a plumber, so don't open the relief valve on the water heater. If som trash gets in it the valve will leak. Open a hot water faucet to bleed the air or check if you have hot water
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:51 PM   #11
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The issue with using a hot water faucet on an RV to check if the tank is full is that if the unit is left in the winterized position you'll get plenty of water out of the faucet and the hot water tank will be completely empty. That's why you'll see plenty of recommendations to open the T&P valve on RV water heaters.
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:54 PM   #12
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Also be careful opening the relief valve if it's been heating water....you can get burned!!!...don't stand in front of it...stand off to the side.
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Old 05-16-2016, 04:12 PM   #13
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I am a plumber, so don't open the relief valve on the water heater. If som trash gets in it the valve will leak. Open a hot water faucet to bleed the air or check if you have hot water
Howdy bsmith001, I am kinda curious about this comment from you being a professional plumber. I can certainly understand how many times ya probably are called out due to a leaking pressure relief valve...... but since it IS a safety device, shouldn't it be tested at least yearly to make sure it isn't faulty?

If you never open it, then how do you know it's not seized up, and thus would fail to open if need be?

I would think that at least opening up your pressure relief valve once a year (as when dewinterizing your RV) would be a prudent thing to do to make sure the safety device could function if needed....and as Bama Rambler explained, if your bypass/crossover valve is incorrect, opening the faucets aren't a sure sign that there is water in the heater.

I know my Rheem water heater at my house recommends testing the pressure relief valve TWICE a year, as the function is fully explained in their article below:

http://www.rheem.com/docs/FetchDocum...3-710821ace0dd

These are just my thoughts on the subject and your mileage may vary.
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Old 05-16-2016, 04:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmith001 View Post
I am a plumber, so don't open the relief valve on the water heater. If som trash gets in it the valve will leak. Open a hot water faucet to bleed the air or check if you have hot water
X2 when winterizing i open the valve to drain the tank, never with hot water present.
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Old 05-16-2016, 09:20 PM   #15
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Howdy bsmith001, I am kinda curious about this comment from you being a professional plumber. I can certainly understand how many times ya probably are called out due to a leaking pressure relief valve...... but since it IS a safety device, shouldn't it be tested at least yearly to make sure it isn't faulty?

If you never open it, then how do you know it's not seized up, and thus would fail to open if need be?

I would think that at least opening up your pressure relief valve once a year (as when dewinterizing your RV) would be a prudent thing to do to make sure the safety device could function if needed....and as Bama Rambler explained, if your bypass/crossover valve is incorrect, opening the faucets aren't a sure sign that there is water in the heater.

I know my Rheem water heater at my house recommends testing the pressure relief valve TWICE a year, as the function is fully explained in their article below:

http://www.rheem.com/docs/FetchDocum...3-710821ace0dd

These are just my thoughts on the subject and your mileage may vary.
You sure can open it but I would have a spare just in case it would start leaking
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:46 AM   #16
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The original poster has not returned so we hope he got his answer!
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Old 05-17-2016, 08:59 AM   #17
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we have all been the new person at one point or another. dont worry about asking questions. We would rather you enjoy and relax then get frustrated of a simple problem

X2
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:28 AM   #18
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Test the pressure relief valve on the hot water tank to check for water. If it does not seal when you release it then test it again a piece of debris may be in the valve and the second test should dislodge the debris or a third or fourth time. The problem comes when people open the valve to drain the hot water tank faster. It will vacuum oxidation from inside the valve into the assembly.
Also be sure to check the drain plug. It is a hex head looking plug (1 1/8" ~) it may be plastic or metal and possibly have a sacrificial anode on the inside of it. If all is good start the heater and watch for leaks. If something leaks, cool the tank and repair the leak.
On a side note be sure to have a pressure regulator on the city water connection and DO NOT run your pump if tied to city water, it will destroy the pressure switch and possibly the pump as well.
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Old 05-17-2016, 11:01 AM   #19
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I am a plumber, so don't open the relief valve on the water heater. If som trash gets in it the valve will leak. Open a hot water faucet to bleed the air or check if you have hot water
That has been my experience as well. Wound up replacing a 40 WH last year when a presure relief valve started leaking and could not be removed and replaced due to design. DW can open a hot water faucel while I run around doing outside setup stuff.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:37 PM   #20
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That has been my experience as well. Wound up replacing a 40 WH last year when a presure relief valve started leaking and could not be removed and replaced due to design. DW can open a hot water faucel while I run around doing outside setup stuff.
OK we have to remember this is NOT a 40 year old WH. It is a new RV water heater. The ONLY way to be SURE the WH is full of water is to open the safety relief valve and check for water. Any other way does not make sure the tank is full. Opening a hot faucet gets water but did it come from the HW tank or BYPASS the tank??

Pull the safety valve. Let it snap shut. IF it drips- pull and let is snap
again. If it drips and repeated flush and snap do not stop it you can replace it. That is highly unlikely on a new or late model RV.

As we all know turning on the 120v AC to an empty water heater is instant death to the heating element.
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