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Old 04-21-2014, 07:25 PM   #1
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In or not in hot water

I flushed my lines out today. Fired up the hot water heater. The electric element works fine, but the propane fired for a few min then went out. From then on light won't even turn on. Checked switch has12 v. appeared OK but nothing happens. Any ideas what might be up?



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Old 04-21-2014, 08:47 PM   #2
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Gotta ask, LP turned on? If so sometimes people turn the valve on too fast. Try turning it off, wait a couple minutes, turn it back on slowly, and give the HWH another try on LP.
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:52 PM   #3
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Gotta ask, LP turned on?
x-2, had the same problem found that LP had an air lock in line, light stove and let it burn for a bit it will flush out LP line most of the time.
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:54 PM   #4
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Will try that but why would it not try to light power light doesn't come on.
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:00 PM   #5
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Water heater is closest to the tank yet fridge,furnace and stove light
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:01 PM   #6
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Is the electric heating element still on, which has already heated the water to it's temp?

If so, then the thermostat for the propane side is not letting (or needing) the burner to ignite....since the water is already hot.

The Suburban water heater also has a propane lockout built-in. If for some reason the gas doesn't light, the Direct Spark Ignitor (DSI) system will actually lock out the gas, after 3 failed attempts. You them must turn off the switch for the DSI, wait a little bit and then turn it back on to start the process again.

Since you said the light doesn't come on, have you checked the 12 volt DC fuse in the electrical panel that controls the water heater.....for a possible blown fuse?
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:19 PM   #7
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Will try that but why would it not try to light power light doesn't come on.
The light is NOT an "ON" light. It is a "FAULT" light.

It comes on when the DC thermostat calls for heat and goes out when the water reaches temperature. If the light stays ON "forever", there is a "Fault."
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:31 PM   #8
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will have to try again tomorrow, water never got hot when it went out. When you first turn it on the light comes on till it lights then the light goes out. All fuses are good.
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:34 PM   #9
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will have to try again tomorrow, water never got hot when it went out.
I am thinking either your bypass valve is open or one of your shower wands shutoff valve is closed with the faucets open.
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:58 PM   #10
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Will try that but why would it not try to light power light doesn't come on.
Sometimes "assumptions" can be a problem in themselves. When you said "power light", I assumed you meant maybe the illuminated blue rocker switch for the DSI..... and not the fault light.

As Lou pointed out, the "red" fault light only comes on while the DSI is attempting to light the propane, then goes off afterwards.

I sometimes forget that not all RV's have an illuminated rocker switch like in my current trailer (my previous one didn't have it, just the fault light) that is constantly on, whenever the rocker switch for the water heater DSI is switched to the on position. This blue light is what I assumed you were referring to when you said the power light.

If your RV only has a red fault light, then you may not have a propane problem, and your troubles lie elsewhere, like the bypass valve as Lou pointed out......but the pic you posted seems to have the bypass valve in the correct position.

You may want to see if the inside or outside shower wands are turned off...but the faucets turned on......as Lou suggested.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:01 PM   #11
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This is what the DC/Propane switch looks like in my camper.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:03 PM   #12
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the light should come on for a second before the water heater lights, and it's not. water never got warm had electric element switch turned off. Will try again tomorrow.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:12 PM   #13
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the light should come on for a second before the water heater lights, and it's not. water never got warm had electric element switch turned off. Will try again tomorrow.
Very easy to troubleshoot the AC side but a little more complicated to troubleshoot the DC side.

Go outside and press both reset buttons (gently! don't break them).
They are located behind the rubber circles.

If the one on the right pops in; you solved your problem.

If not you might want to remove the cover and visually inspect the thermostats for obvious damage.

They are easy to replace but make sure you get the AC or DC one to replace a bad one. They are not interchangeable.

If you want hotter water and you have a bad thermostat, replace BOTH with the higher temperature (never just one).
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:40 PM   #14
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Never had a dual water heater (gas, electric) before and walk through was kind of quick when it came to this. Plus the fact they never showed where the bypass valves were, there were only 2 valves on my old trailer and there are 3 on this one. Thanks for the help will probably get it tomorrow.
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Old 04-22-2014, 02:04 PM   #15
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Last night I tried the reset and nothing happened, did it again this morning and hearda " pop " sound went in and tried to light the hot water and this time it went without a hitch. Let it run till it shut off and cooled off then tried electric also no problems. Had lots of hot water in either mode. Thanks to all that helped
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:33 PM   #16
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Ah! The old spider web in the chimney trick!

The web blocked the flue and caused a bad mixture. When the mixture is bad you get a "no light" condition because too rich or too lean it won't light. The gas backs up in the flue due to the web causing a rich mixture.

You must have caught it just right (gasses dissipated a bit) and it "exploded" clearing the flue.

You are good to go till next time!
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:46 PM   #17
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Hello All! Newbie here......I am having he same issue with my DSI Water Heater. I have tried all of the suggestions to no avail. Does anyone have any other thoughts?

Thanks!
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:51 PM   #18
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Hello All! Newbie here......I am having he same issue with my DSI Water Heater. I have tried all of the suggestions to no avail. Does anyone have any other thoughts?

Thanks!
I had to re-align the sparker on mine when brand new. It is a ticklish operation to get it aligned per the manual.
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