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Old 12-08-2016, 09:31 AM   #21
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This is very helpful for us as well. Thanks.

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Old 12-08-2016, 10:12 AM   #22
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...another buttered popcorn thread.....
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Old 12-08-2016, 10:37 AM   #23
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...another buttered popcorn thread.....
'tis the season!!!
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Old 12-08-2016, 11:49 AM   #24
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Mine looked like that and I replaced it. Worn thin around the threads (like yours), I was afraid it would break off. I bought a replacement and a spare from Amazon. Easiest way for us country boys to shop, got here in two days.
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:00 PM   #25
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I own an Ace Hardware and we carry them in our store so you can check any Ace.We are usually a little easier to get around in rather than the big box stores and we help the customer. Thanks,Gary

What?...................A Shameless plug for Ace Hardware.

Which I can not pass up and tend to go to often, especially if it's in the middle of an old business district somewhere and looks like it has been a hardware store for about 150 years.


Magnesium is the best, but if you know you have high iron content in the water use the aluminum, you'll need to replace it more often. The ones made of popcorn do not last long at all.
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:09 PM   #26
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But you're not throwing away anything........for awhile...
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Old 12-08-2016, 05:10 PM   #27
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One quick question, do all RV water heaters have anode rod? I don't recall mine having one on a 2012 model.
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Old 12-08-2016, 05:30 PM   #28
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No...only Suburban
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Old 12-08-2016, 07:50 PM   #29
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Looked at mine this fall and it is 99.9999% "new" condition........I do not think that is normal after 9 months of camping---5 of those were months were full time...J
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Old 12-08-2016, 07:52 PM   #30
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I just took one out, this is a2010, and looks like new.....spent most of it's life in soft water.....
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:07 PM   #31
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What exactly causes the corrosion of the bar? I know on a boat it is electrolysis caused by current in the water but I wouldn't think that was the case with a trailer. Is it just the chemicals in the water? I was surprised how much was consumed in one season.
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:10 PM   #32
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I'd say the chemicals
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Old 12-09-2016, 06:03 PM   #33
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Looked at mine this fall and it is 99.9999% "new" condition........I do not think that is normal after 9 months of camping---5 of those were months were full time...J

Very likely the threads were effectively insulated by excess sealant. Next installation ,use a meter to verify a circuit between plug and frame.
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:00 PM   #34
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What exactly causes the corrosion of the bar? I know on a boat it is electrolysis caused by current in the water but I wouldn't think that was the case with a trailer. Is it just the chemicals in the water? I was surprised how much was consumed in one season.

Actually it's caused by dissimilar metals connected by electrolyte will cause current flow. In this case the magnesium will sacrifice flakes to the iron. The water (with impurities) is the electrolyte, connects the rod to the iron tank. Purpose being to coat exposed iron with tiny flakes. Sacrificially
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:33 PM   #35
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What exactly causes the corrosion of the bar? I know on a boat it is electrolysis caused by current in the water but I wouldn't think that was the case with a trailer. Is it just the chemicals in the water? I was surprised how much was consumed in one season.
See here:

Hot water heater anodes and rust protection
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Old 12-10-2016, 07:36 PM   #36
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No...only Suburban
Can an Atwood water heater be fitted with an anode rod?

Would there be any reason to do so?

Why would that sacrificial rod only be necessary in the Suburban models?

Thanks for any insight,

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Old 12-10-2016, 07:37 PM   #37
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Type of material the tank is made of
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Old 12-10-2016, 08:33 PM   #38
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Can an Atwood water heater be fitted with an anode rod?

Would there be any reason to do so?

Why would that sacrificial rod only be necessary in the Suburban models?

Thanks for any insight,

Pop
No need. An Atwood has an aluminum tank, and won't rust. This is an excerpt from another website:

The reason an Anode Rod is required by a Suburban Water Heater is because the tank of the Suburban Water Heater uses glass enamel over a steel tank. If the enamel cracks for any reason it will expose the steel to the water and the steel will start to corrode even from a pinhole in the enamel. The rod attracts the corrosive elements in the water that could corrode the water heater tank and the rod itself gets corroded.

The Anode Rod is part of the Suburban Water Heater's drain plug. It should be checked at least once a year .

So why doesn't the Atwood need an Anode Rod? The water tank on the Atwood Water Heater is made of aluminum which does not have the same corrosive properties as steel
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Old 12-10-2016, 10:43 PM   #39
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I thought Atwood used a ceramic tank?
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Old 12-10-2016, 11:33 PM   #40
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I thought Atwood used a ceramic tank?
Here it is straight from the manufacturer (Atwood)

http://www.askforatwood.com/images/W...ceTri-Fold.pdf

and a zoomed in screenshot of their brochure warning explaining the tanks are aluminum and not to use anode rods.:
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