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Old 05-06-2013, 10:35 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
I bent mine, and didn't move at all. I was in a rush one evening after work to hook up and get to the campground before dark. In my rush, I forgot to retract the rear stabilizers, and starting using the power tongue jack to lift the trailer to go on the truck hitch. It did seem strange that the tongue jack was straining somewhat and it was only after I heard a crumpling of metal from the rear of the trailer, did I realize what happened (and said a few curse words)

This is where my great dealer came into play. I had to take the camper in a few weeks after this, to get a countertop/ leaky faucet replaced under warranty. The dealer was able to straighten out my bent rear power stabilizers, and didn't hardly charge me anything to do it. Kudos again to Bayou Outdoor Super Store in Bossier City, LA.

Hopefully, anyone laughing at me while reading this, will not do the same thing.
Moral of the story: Don't get in a hurry. Check everything, and check it again.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:42 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
I'M the guy who posts about always using a check list!
Oh, those "Senior Moments" - Seems like they happen to me more and more often, but I have a hard time remembering what they were!
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:05 PM   #13
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Follow up and a correction--
After removing my burned out water heater element I see that it is
clearly marked camco 1500 watt 120 volt.

In my original post below I said 2000 watt. I edited post 1 to the correct
1500 wattage and Home Debit sku number which is 296896.
Same price of $9.98

They do have a 2000 watt 120v heater but it would draw about 16.6 amps.
That would clearly trip a 15 amp breaker.
The 1500 watt 120v heater should draw about 12.5 amps which will work
very nicely.

FYI I removed the cover and visually checked the fusable link on the
T-stat/hi limit switch. It is good

Last time about 3 years ago, when heater blew for unknown reason
(maybe close lightning strike) it took out the heater AND the fusable
link on the t-stat/hi limit switch.

You can't beat the price anywhere for this common RV water heater
element. If you ever need to change yours be sure and get the stamped
out heavy sheet metal socket to fit. It just might fit your home water
heater element as well but you can't change this heater without it!

and happy camping!
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:21 PM   #14
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Kydan fyi .
Your little issue begs of a perfect example of a discussion we had last week.


A lot of people use the hot water tap to purge air from the water heater when in fact you should really use the pressure relief valve.

Example :
You forgot or think you turned water heater bypass valves but you didnt . You turn on hot water tap and flow the pink stuff through and some air and wala you think water heater tank is full and turn on electric element! Problem is there's no water in the tank but yet you get water out of hot water side of facet as its bypassed still.
Result .... blurnt element.


Only sure way to purge air is with pressure relief valve.


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Old 05-06-2013, 04:55 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post

A lot of people use the hot water tap to purge air from the water heater when in fact you should really use the pressure relief valve.

Only sure way to purge air is with pressure relief valve.
I do both. I 1st purge through the tap. If the water comes out immediately, then I know i have messed up somewhere.......it takes some time for the water heater to fill. When I get water out of the tap, then I flip the pressure relief valve to double check that the water heater is full. As a precaution, I also flip the pressure relief valve before switching the toggle switch for electric. Where it is gonna bite me somewhere in the future is forgetting to switch the toggle switch off before emptying the water heater.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post

I do both. I 1st purge through the tap. If the water comes out immediately, then I know i have messed up somewhere.......it takes some time for the water heater to fill. When I get water out of the tap, then I flip the pressure relief valve to double check that the water heater is full. As a precaution, I also flip the pressure relief valve before switching the toggle switch for electric. Where it is gonna bite me somewhere in the future is forgetting to switch the toggle switch off before emptying the water heater.
Lol its happened plenty!
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:04 PM   #17
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Another thing to do once you have everything hooked up is to check to make sure all those faucets are shut off!! Especially if you winterize more than once a year because you travel south during the winter. Failure to do so will result in a very wet situation! At least, that's what I hear.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:08 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ttrost65 View Post
Another thing to do once you have everything hooked up is to check to make sure all those faucets are shut off!! Especially if you winterize more than once a year because you travel south during the winter. Failure to do so will result in a very wet situation! At least, that's what I hear.
And leave the stopper out of the drain as well...
I've been told..... in conjunction with shutting off taps...
Just sayin
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:26 PM   #19
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It doesn't matter whether you purge air from the tap or the pressure relief
valve it you've left the breaker on and you plug in before you hook
up the water......
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:40 PM   #20
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Wmtire - how well do those things work? (after you put the stabilizers down...)
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