Leaking waste tank valves

poodlepeople · 09-23-2010, 12:56 PM

We have a 2010 FW where the handles on the waste valves point down at a about a 45 degree angle. I have noticed from the beginning a few ounces of fluid whenever I took the cap off the waste pipe to empty the tanks but this last trip the problem has gotten much worse. Now I get half a bucket!

Do these valves fail this soon (about 3000 miles)? Is the fact that the handle and the extension rod points a bit down that is causing the valves to open a bit with road vibration (I do seem to feel a slight bit of movement when I go to check them at rest stops)? I am thinking of building a jig to put a shock cord around the handles to hold them in. Anyone had this sort of problem?

Boyd · 09-23-2010, 02:28 PM

I have three valves, each pointing down at a 45 degree angle. Onee for the black, one gray and one crossover from the black. I did get a little leakage from my black tank valve, about a cup's worth) but solved that problem when I bent the push rod on a rock requiring a replacement. (about $20 from ACE Hardware) Solved leak.

A half bucket is definatly WAY too much seepage. If your valves are opening while you travel then you have a defective valve. If you're still under warrantee, have you're dealer change them out. If you are past warrantee, it's a "sort-of" easy fix. Drain your tanks first.

milzat · 09-23-2010, 09:20 PM

There is most likely something caught in the valve plate, not letting the valve close completely. Or, if it's a cable operated type, it may be out of adjustment.

How To Fix Leaking Wastewater Valves - The Fun Times Guide to RV Road Trips

andes2 · 09-25-2010, 10:47 AM

I have the same issue. On our last trip of the year I made sure I flushed the tank really good to make sure it was empty. When I got home I took my sprayer nozzle on my garden hose and shot water back up the spout with the valve open to make sure it anything was caught in there that it would hopefully come loose. I then closed the valve and filled my black tank to the brim with water. I let it sit for 2 days with the cap off and a 5 gallon pail under it. After 2 days I had about 2-3 cups of water in the pail.
I have an appointment booked with the local dealer to have it looked at. I could do it but since it is under warranty, i"ll let the pros open the underbelly as I am not exactly sure where the valve actually is. I believe it is on the other side of the unit and i have long pull bars.
Scheduled for Oct 6th...I can post what they find out if you can wait that long.

Mowat · 09-25-2010, 11:42 AM

I have cables on my front tanks... I hate them. When I first got it the grey was leaking bad. Not sure what the reason was but after messing with the cables a bit I got it to close. They put a SUPER long cable on it. I thought about shortening it. But even just messing with it and pulling it more underneath than on top caused so much binding it wouldn't close. I would love to replace them with electric but not sure if the 100+ish is worth it.

andes2 · 10-19-2010, 11:38 PM

Well I got the unit fixed and they had to replace the valve....what I didn't expect was that Forrest river did not cover all the charges for the warranty work. The local dealer (who I did not purchase the unit from) was willing to do the work but when they submitted the work to forrest river they submitted 2 hours labor.....forrest river was only willing to cover 1/2 hr labour so I got stuck paying the difference. The dealer stated that FR pays labor rate based on in lab times and no matter how long it takes to actually do the work they only get paid that much. They said if I had been their customer they would have eaten the extra cost as they would have made their money at the front end of the sale. Has anyone else heard of this? I will be contacting my selling dealer to hopefully put me in contact with someone at FR that could clarify that for me.

poodlepeople · 10-20-2010, 04:11 PM

Our trailer is in for valve repair as I type. I have little hope of getting this covered under warranty (it is FR after all!) but do need the problem fixed. I have learned that reverse flushing (as distinct from using the tank flush) is an essential step in keeping the black tank valve clear of paper. Since this is my first trailer with a tank flush, I had always used the reverse method in the past and never had this problem.

I also discovered that both the cable and electric valves are not a good replacement solution because of their own problems (see previous posts here).

I just wish you did not have to becomes so smart on all this stuff. It does take some of the fun out.

The_Stuff · 10-20-2010, 05:36 PM

wonder if some environmentally friendly dope around the valve surfaces would have helped? Vaseline or similar items might have helped. maybe you got something wedged into the valve and it created a run for the water?

bsmall · 10-20-2010, 08:28 PM

Our 2010 28RKBS had the same problem leaking in the black tank and forward grey tank from our first trip out. The dealer fixed it under warranty but did not put the cables back on the black tank or forward grey tank. He said he had seen a lot of leaking from the valves with the cables and suggested the manual ones. I agreed to the manual ones on two of the three tanks and they work great. I looked at one of the cables and it was about 6 ft. long and the funny thing it weaved to the rear and back to the front along side of the frame rail. The funniest thing was the valve pull handle was only about 14 inches from the gate valve, so why make the cable 6 ft......makes one wonder.

poodlepeople · 10-21-2010, 09:46 AM

I am sorry to say that I think the reason the cables on cable activated valves are so long (6 feet) is that this is the way they are sold and the manufacturers don't bother to get ones that are customized to their applications (that would cost money, of course).

Proper cable operation requires a firm mounting for the cable sleeve at both ends of the cable regardless of the length. They can be shortened but only with great trouble. The simple rod activated valves seem to be the best solution and careful "hygiene" in the tanks and pipes seems to be the best prevention of problems. It would be nice if the manufacturers helped on this, especially for those of us new to larger trailers, by providing detailed advice and ideas on the necessary after-market fixtures that make life better - after all, it is only another page or two in the manual.

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