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Old 09-16-2019, 04:06 PM   #1
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Lighted Switches

I have a 2014 Georgetown 351ds. Because DW and I both have problems determining when a Command Center switch is on, I decided to replace the rocker switches with lighted switches that would be lighted when the switch is on. I purchased some switches from an auto parts place and tried to replace the ones on the Command Center but immediately ran into a problem. I blew several fuses and the switches don't work. Apparently tab 3 on the ones installed for the water pump and Arctic Pak is isolated. On the ones I purchased, tab 3 is active when the switch is in the off position. What do I need to have a lighted switch that works and doesn't blow fuses?
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SlowJoe
2014 Georgetown 351DS
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Old 09-22-2019, 06:50 PM   #2
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You have to look at the wiring diagram for the lighted switch (usually printed on the package). The lighted switches I bought have a third terminal for the LED that requires a NEGATIVE feed, assuming your switch is properly installed to break/connect the positive line. You also have to connect the 12V+ live feed to the correct terminal for the light to work (without a light, it doesn't matter which is the 12V+ feed and which is the 12V+ lead to the switched appliance.)

After installing, I found the LED lights in the switches to be way too bright inside my little A-frame camper. I tried adding 100K resistors in series in the 12V- line to dim the LEDs - and that helped for the switches that were under the dinette table. I disconnected the LEDs on the switches on the microwave cabinet because there was no way to stop them shining in your eyes while trying to sleep. I set up all the rocker switches so that top depressed was "on", and bottom depressed was "off". Sometimes simpler is better.

hope this helps
Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:58 AM   #3
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Lighted Switches

I found out the what will make them work. The switches installed at the factory had the hot wire reversed from what the switches I had installed (by their wiring diagram) and for some reason that caused the fuses to blow. I always had the ground (-) installed correctly. A Georgetown wiring diagram would have helped but I understand those are hard to get.
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