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Old 04-29-2014, 03:09 PM   #11
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it works with propane, that is what we had to use to get hot water. I brought it to the RV dealer last Friday and they said it worked, I get it back today and it no work. LOL. The RV dealer said it reached a temp of 118* after an hour of being on. I had it on today for 45 minutes and it was maybe 75*. I will pull the cover and check the hi temp limit with my volt meter, and idea how many amps/volts it should be?
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:06 PM   #12
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after 45 minutes of being on,water temp is the same as it was before I brought it in, maybe 75*.
Is the water hot when you start using it; then it cools off to 75 degrees?

or

Waited 45 minutes with heater running; then opened the tap and it was 75 degrees.

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Old 04-29-2014, 07:40 PM   #13
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bypass open? not if the problem is only electric.
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Old 04-29-2014, 09:49 PM   #14
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FYI - there are two SEPARATE and INDEPENDENT systems in your water heater. One of the other will work or they can work together by turning both on.

If you have NO problem when using gas, but you do not get hot water when ONLY using the outside AC switch your problem is either a bad AC thermostat (the one with the black wires) or a bad heating element.

BOTH are easy inexpensive fixes.

Remove the reset button cover and examine the thermostats for corrosion, bellows leak or broken wires.

The heating element replacement is slightly more involved as the gas elements need to be moved out of the way.

The thermostats are behind a rubber cover and the heating element is behind a plastic cover.

Both covers can be seen in the photo of the heater.


Here are some examples of bad thermostats and heating elements.
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:12 PM   #15
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If you want to change the electric element, make sure you buy the socket to remove it. Less than $10.
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:30 PM   #16
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It has a new element in it so I know it is not that. I checked everything and no visual damage and the thermostats are getting power. The RV dealer said it worked for them, so I am thinking I may have an issue with my shore power. Even though I wired it for 30amp, it may be putting out 110v but it may not be putting out 30 amps. I will break out the generator today after work and see if it will heat on generator. If it does then I know where my problem is.
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:46 PM   #17
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"Is the water hot when you start using it; then it cools off to 75 degrees?"

I wish, that would mean we are out of water. I had the water heater on for 45 minutes and then turned on the water and it was 75*. I guess I was typing with my Cajun accent and you didn't understand. LOL
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlbreaux View Post
"Is the water hot when you start using it; then it cools off to 75 degrees?"

I wish, that would mean we are out of water. I had the water heater on for 45 minutes and then turned on the water and it was 75*. I guess I was typing with my Cajun accent and you didn't understand. LOL
I was driving for a bypass valve leaking or broken.

As to your other post, are you using an extension cord from your 30 amp RV socket to the camper? If so, measure the voltage at the camper. It may be a lot less than 110. The electric element will not put out full wattage with reduced voltage. There is a thread here somewhere with the math.
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:53 AM   #19
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Nothing is leaking. I am using my power cord from shore power straight to my camper. I was thinking I had a bad breaker on shore power but that's not it. I hooked the camper to my generator(Briggs & Stratton elite series 8000 watts) and still no hot water. Gen, just like shore power putting out constant 120v.Looks like it will be going back to the RV Dealer tomorrow.
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:58 AM   #20
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I still suspect the hi limit is either loose or defective. It must be tight against the tank. I also suspect the 110v element is defective.
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