Low hot water temperature

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

I still suspect the hi limit is either loose or defective. It must be tight against the tank. I also suspect the 110v element is defective.

They are the only two components that affect the AC side of the heater (connections could be also - like corrosion - and the on/off switch).

As long as the Propane side is OK, it is gonna be one or the other or both.

[jlbreaux]

There is nothing loose or that has visible damage. I am starting to think the RV dealer may have left the water heater on with little or no water in the tank after they changed the element. I hope I am wrong but I brought it to them Friday and they called Monday afternoon saying water temp was 118*. I will find out tomorrow afternoon when I bring it back.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by jlbreaux

There is nothing loose or that has visible damage. I am starting to think the RV dealer may have left the water heater on with little or no water in the tank after they changed the element. I hope I am wrong but I brought it to them Friday and they called Monday afternoon saying water temp was 118*. I will find out tomorrow afternoon when I bring it back.

You would have to take the black cover off to see if the hi limit was loose, but I will go with Herk, it's either one or the other of hi limit, element or both being defective.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by jlbreaux

There is nothing loose or that has visible damage. I am starting to think the RV dealer may have left the water heater on with little or no water in the tank after they changed the element. I hope I am wrong but I brought it to them Friday and they called Monday afternoon saying water temp was 118*. I will find out tomorrow afternoon when I bring it back.

Is it possible that you and the dealer are measuring the hot water from two different points?

If the water in the heater is hot, and they are measuring it directly from the heater, via the pressure relief valve (see pic)................and you are measuring it from the inside taps, where it may be mixing in with cold water somehow (via a bad bypass valve, indoor/outdoor shower wands left in the off position while the knobs are in the on position).......then it's possible that the dealer is getting hot water and you are getting no so hot water.



Have you checked the water temp directly from the pressure relief valve?

If the water from the heater direct is hot, but not from the taps....then that let's you know what/where the problem may be.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Is it possible that you and the dealer are measuring the hot water from two different points?...

He gets hot water when on propane, just not on 110v.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

He gets hot water when on propane, just not on 110v.

Thanks, I missed that. I read where the OP said it was working on propane, but not jlbreaux.

[Kaadk]

Have you confirmed the dealer is actually using AC to heat the water and not propane or AC/Propane mix?

I can easily see the dealer thinking you have no HW at all and saying "Yep, works with propane so he should be all good."

[Witch Doctor]

Do you have an amp probe by any chance you should pull between 8 and 10 amps while heating the element. If the element is bad you will pull 0 amps.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Kaadk

Have you confirmed the dealer is actually using AC to heat the water and not propane or AC/Propane mix?

I can easily see the dealer thinking you have no HW at all and saying "Yep, works with propane so he should be all good."

You may have hit the nail on the head!

[DAISY BOYKIN]

I had the same problem this past Nov, discovered the on/off switch was not making good contact (dirty). I flipped the on/Off switch back and fort several times. The hot water began to get hot. Replaced the switch, all works good now.

[jlbreaux]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

You would have to take the black cover off to see if the hi limit was loose, but I will go with Herk, it's either one or the other of hi limit, element or both being defective.

I took the black cover off and no visible damage or loose parts, everything still looks brand new.

[jlbreaux]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Do you have an amp probe by any chance you should pull between 8 and 10 amps while heating the element. If the element is bad you will pull 0 amps.

I have checked voltage and amps from my shore power. I am getting 120v continuous from shore and generator and 7.9 to 8.2 amps. I checked voltage from the black wires under the "black box" hi/lo temp sensors and was getting 110V.

[jlbreaux]

Originally Posted by Kaadk

Have you confirmed the dealer is actually using AC to heat the water and not propane or AC/Propane mix?

I can easily see the dealer thinking you have no HW at all and saying "Yep, works with propane so he should be all good."

I never thought of that. It could very well be the issue,I will find out for sure tomorrow afternoon!

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by jlbreaux

I took the black cover off and no visible damage or loose parts, everything still looks brand new.

Did you try to tighten the hi limit nut? Mine looked fine until I started removing it and it was not real tight and had some debris under it. New trailer 2012. Limit would keep tripping even with a new heating element that I messed up and burned out. Replaced with 140d on both hi limits.

[jlbreaux]

No I did not it felt snug. I may remove it and check for debris behind it. I do not want to drag it back to the dealer, tomorrow will make 3 trips in 7 days. Just glad dealer is only 30 miles away.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by jlbreaux

I have checked voltage and amps from my shore power. I am getting 120v continuous from shore and generator and 7.9 to 8.2 amps. I checked voltage from the black wires under the "black box" hi/lo temp sensors and was getting 110V.

Jumper out the limit if you pull 8 amps for 30 min. and get hot water your limit is bad. they are just bi- metal that heat up and open to shut the juice off. Your limit could just be opening to soon being bad. I will bet you a dollar to a beer they used the propane side only. These water heaters are pretty simple. Make sure you have 110 first at the element then do the jumper and recheck for 110v at the element and your pulling 8 amps. Should take about 20 to 30 mins to get to hot from cold.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Jumper out the limit if you pull 8 amps for 30 min. and get hot water your limit is bad. they are just bi- metal that heat up and open to shut the juice off. Your limit could just be opening to soon being bad. I will bet you a dollar to a beer they used the propane side only. These water heaters are pretty simple. Make sure you have 110 first at the element then do the jumper and recheck for 110v at the element and your pulling 8 amps. Should take about 20 to 30 mins to get to hot from cold.

Good idea you old Goat. Just make sure you unplug from shore power before jumping the limit and be prepared to turn the heater off as soon as the water gets hot.

[VinceU]

Could also be thermostat opens early, had one do that. Next to hi limit.

[jlbreaux]

Well I didn't try anything today, got off of work too late. It will be a no charge at the dealer because it falls in the 30 day workmanship warranty. I will let them troubleshoot it from here on out.

[jlbreaux]

Well I have a gremlin some where. I brought it to the RV dealer Friday afternoon. I hooked it up and 30 minutes later I had hot water. and no need to keep camper there, if it fi broke you cant fix it. I get home and tested it over the weekend and it is now working.