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Old 05-01-2014, 08:09 AM   #21
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I still suspect the hi limit is either loose or defective. It must be tight against the tank. I also suspect the 110v element is defective.
They are the only two components that affect the AC side of the heater (connections could be also - like corrosion - and the on/off switch).

As long as the Propane side is OK, it is gonna be one or the other or both.
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:58 AM   #22
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There is nothing loose or that has visible damage. I am starting to think the RV dealer may have left the water heater on with little or no water in the tank after they changed the element. I hope I am wrong but I brought it to them Friday and they called Monday afternoon saying water temp was 118*. I will find out tomorrow afternoon when I bring it back.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:02 AM   #23
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There is nothing loose or that has visible damage. I am starting to think the RV dealer may have left the water heater on with little or no water in the tank after they changed the element. I hope I am wrong but I brought it to them Friday and they called Monday afternoon saying water temp was 118*. I will find out tomorrow afternoon when I bring it back.
You would have to take the black cover off to see if the hi limit was loose, but I will go with Herk, it's either one or the other of hi limit, element or both being defective.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:15 AM   #24
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There is nothing loose or that has visible damage. I am starting to think the RV dealer may have left the water heater on with little or no water in the tank after they changed the element. I hope I am wrong but I brought it to them Friday and they called Monday afternoon saying water temp was 118*. I will find out tomorrow afternoon when I bring it back.
Is it possible that you and the dealer are measuring the hot water from two different points?

If the water in the heater is hot, and they are measuring it directly from the heater, via the pressure relief valve (see pic)................and you are measuring it from the inside taps, where it may be mixing in with cold water somehow (via a bad bypass valve, indoor/outdoor shower wands left in the off position while the knobs are in the on position).......then it's possible that the dealer is getting hot water and you are getting no so hot water.



Have you checked the water temp directly from the pressure relief valve?

If the water from the heater direct is hot, but not from the taps....then that let's you know what/where the problem may be.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:19 AM   #25
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Is it possible that you and the dealer are measuring the hot water from two different points?...
He gets hot water when on propane, just not on 110v.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:22 AM   #26
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He gets hot water when on propane, just not on 110v.
Thanks, I missed that. I read where the OP said it was working on propane, but not jlbreaux.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:26 AM   #27
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Have you confirmed the dealer is actually using AC to heat the water and not propane or AC/Propane mix?

I can easily see the dealer thinking you have no HW at all and saying "Yep, works with propane so he should be all good."
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:41 AM   #28
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Do you have an amp probe by any chance you should pull between 8 and 10 amps while heating the element. If the element is bad you will pull 0 amps.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:43 AM   #29
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Have you confirmed the dealer is actually using AC to heat the water and not propane or AC/Propane mix?

I can easily see the dealer thinking you have no HW at all and saying "Yep, works with propane so he should be all good."
You may have hit the nail on the head!
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:44 AM   #30
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Had same problem--------------

I had the same problem this past Nov, discovered the on/off switch was not making good contact (dirty). I flipped the on/Off switch back and fort several times. The hot water began to get hot. Replaced the switch, all works good now.
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