Low hot water temperature

[IHDRIDER00]

Hi, I have a 04' All American Sport 36CK 5th Wheel Toy Hauler W/ Suburban 6 gal. water heater. My problem is low water temp. while using electricity. It worked fine in March and it works fine now on propane. Is there a thermostat that controls the temp. (I'm sure) that could be bad? Any thing else? Thanks

[TURBS]

Bad or dying electric heater element?
No thermostat.

TURBS

Sabre owners united!

[Herk7769]

There are two thermostats (one for gas and one for electric).

One of the electric thermostat's bellows may have become detached from the tank or is bad.

If you buy one on eBay or Amazon, make sure you get the correct one since the gas and AC ones are different.

[OldCoot]

If you hunt around, there are 120°, 130° and 140° for both the 110 and propane. I changed both of mine to 140° to facilitate using less hot water.

[IHDRIDER00]

Do I have to remove a cover to see these? I'll try to post a pic soon. Thanks

[youroo]

Originally Posted by IHDRIDER00

Do I have to remove a cover to see these? I'll try to post a pic soon. Thanks

Yes,rubber. Youroo!!

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by IHDRIDER00

Do I have to remove a cover to see these? I'll try to post a pic soon. Thanks

Yes, there is a cover with 2 rubber covers in it. The entire cover must be removed. CAUTION: Make sure you are UNPLUGGED from shore power and the battery DISCONNECTED, not just shut off BEFORE removing the cover.

[Herk7769]

The two things sticking out of the top of the two thermostats are the "reset" buttons everyone talks about. If the tank overheats, the top bellows will snap open and shut that side of the system down. The system can be reset after cool down (basically recompressing the bellows) by pushing the bellows buttons back in. NOT too hard as they can break off!

The thermostats are protected from water spray by a rubber cover with two circular disks that cover the buttons. (See photo)

[jlbreaux]

I just started to have the same issue. As most of you know my unit was plugged into a campground receptacle that was wired wrong (220V) and of course my element was shot. Well the RV dealer changed it, now my hot water is maybe 75*, if we are lucky. I brought it back to the RV dealer they said it worked, the water temp was 118* and they could not hold their hand under the water. Well I picked it up today, got home set it up and only powered on the water heater, after 45 minutes of being on,water temp is the same as it was before I brought it in, maybe 75*. Called the RV dealer back they said I am more than welcome to bring it back and plug in and see it was working at their place. The RV dealer and myself are sure cornfused about this one Any ideas to what I can check myself before I bring it back to the dealer?

[OldCoot]

Try shutting off the 110v to the water heater and powering it with propane and see what happens. If it gets hot on propane, I would suspect the 110v hi limit (on the left of Herks picture) is shot. IF you replace it yourself, make sure you are unplugged from shore power, remove the big black cover and remove the hi limit and take it to the dealer and get a replacement. I would suggest a 140D limit on both to facilitate using less hot water.

[jlbreaux]

it works with propane, that is what we had to use to get hot water. I brought it to the RV dealer last Friday and they said it worked, I get it back today and it no work. LOL. The RV dealer said it reached a temp of 118* after an hour of being on. I had it on today for 45 minutes and it was maybe 75*. I will pull the cover and check the hi temp limit with my volt meter, and idea how many amps/volts it should be?

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by jlbreaux

after 45 minutes of being on,water temp is the same as it was before I brought it in, maybe 75*.

Is the water hot when you start using it; then it cools off to 75 degrees?

or

Waited 45 minutes with heater running; then opened the tap and it was 75 degrees.

[garbonz]

bypass open? not if the problem is only electric.

[Herk7769]

FYI - there are two SEPARATE and INDEPENDENT systems in your water heater. One of the other will work or they can work together by turning both on.

If you have NO problem when using gas, but you do not get hot water when ONLY using the outside AC switch your problem is either a bad AC thermostat (the one with the black wires) or a bad heating element.

BOTH are easy inexpensive fixes.

Remove the reset button cover and examine the thermostats for corrosion, bellows leak or broken wires.

The heating element replacement is slightly more involved as the gas elements need to be moved out of the way.

The thermostats are behind a rubber cover and the heating element is behind a plastic cover.

Both covers can be seen in the photo of the heater.


Here are some examples of bad thermostats and heating elements.

[OldCoot]

If you want to change the electric element, make sure you buy the socket to remove it. Less than $10.

[jlbreaux]

It has a new element in it so I know it is not that. I checked everything and no visual damage and the thermostats are getting power. The RV dealer said it worked for them, so I am thinking I may have an issue with my shore power. Even though I wired it for 30amp, it may be putting out 110v but it may not be putting out 30 amps. I will break out the generator today after work and see if it will heat on generator. If it does then I know where my problem is.

[jlbreaux]

"Is the water hot when you start using it; then it cools off to 75 degrees?"

I wish, that would mean we are out of water. I had the water heater on for 45 minutes and then turned on the water and it was 75*. I guess I was typing with my Cajun accent and you didn't understand. LOL

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by jlbreaux

"Is the water hot when you start using it; then it cools off to 75 degrees?"

I wish, that would mean we are out of water. I had the water heater on for 45 minutes and then turned on the water and it was 75*. I guess I was typing with my Cajun accent and you didn't understand. LOL

I was driving for a bypass valve leaking or broken.

As to your other post, are you using an extension cord from your 30 amp RV socket to the camper? If so, measure the voltage at the camper. It may be a lot less than 110. The electric element will not put out full wattage with reduced voltage. There is a thread here somewhere with the math.

[jlbreaux]

Nothing is leaking. I am using my power cord from shore power straight to my camper. I was thinking I had a bad breaker on shore power but that's not it. I hooked the camper to my generator(Briggs & Stratton elite series 8000 watts) and still no hot water. Gen, just like shore power putting out constant 120v.Looks like it will be going back to the RV Dealer tomorrow.

[OldCoot]

I still suspect the hi limit is either loose or defective. It must be tight against the tank. I also suspect the 110v element is defective.