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Old 04-07-2012, 06:29 PM   #21
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I have added the valves on my last two campers, and it works great. I just open them when I leave the campgrounds.

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Old 04-07-2012, 06:30 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by crocus View Post
Are the valves protected from flying stones and stuff off the highway? I could see them getting cracked if struck.
crocus - It is only one valve - the fresh water and so far with about 1200 miles of pulling it hasn't been damaged yet but I am sure it could happen. It is somewhat above the fairing and to tell the truth, we didn't even know it was there (nothing in the manual nor was it being there pointed out to us at the PDI).

I will certainly know if it gets cracked and start leaking.

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Old 04-07-2012, 07:12 PM   #23
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I was looking at the picture by dilgerc, as his valves seemed to be hanging down a long way.
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:17 PM   #24
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I'm guessing they hang down prob 8 in but they are at the right front corner as I have a front kitchen and the drains are near the water heater.
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:12 PM   #25
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yep...just what we want to do!

2012 Ford F-250 King Ranch Super Crew Cab 4x4 "Mae West"
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:21 PM   #26
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I just dewinterized my 2010 Roo 23SS for the first time tonight (bought it used) but i didn't see any low point drains. I crawled under the trailer from front to back and didn't see them. Does anyone know if my model has them and if so where they are?
2011 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8293SS, 12K Equal-i-zer
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2010 Rockwood Roo 23SS (2012 - 2014)
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Old 05-16-2012, 01:32 PM   #27
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I have a different issue with the low point drains. I'm working on modifying the water system to allow using my 2011 327DS Georgetown with an "Artic Pack" in below freezing temperatures. The drain lines sticking out from the compartment are a guaranteed freeze point. I intend to cut both drain lines inside the water compartment and add "Shark Bite" slip-on ball valves to the PEX tubing. This will move the shutoffs into the plumbing compartment where I can better control the temperature.

My temporary "fix" for the drains for this past Winter's trip was to wrap them with aluminum foil then spray them with expanding foam. The aluminum foil made it easy to remove the foam. Heat for the plumbing compartment comes from a 300w gutter heater strip purchased at a local home improvement store. It's zip tied to all of the water lines and makes a couple of wraps around the filter. Power is supplied by a 110 outlet mounted on the ceiling of the compartment and a standard gutter heater thermostat handles cycling the power as needed. Additional insulation will also be added to the outside of all of the plastic compartments containing water tanks.

Power for the 110 outlet comes from the Xantrex 1kw inverter I had installed. The inverter also powers the 300w refrigerator when we're driving (175amp alternator), allowing us to keep the propane turned off. The inverter has a built-in transfer switch which was wired to the original power line for the refrigerator. When the generator is running or shore power is available, the inverter draws no power from the house battery which eliminates what would be a heavy load on it.

The coldest overnight we encountered while travelling this past winter was 17F. Cold temperature trips are planned to have overnight stays at RV parks with shore power available, eliminating the need to run the inverter on the battery.

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Old 05-16-2012, 08:20 PM   #28
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I had issues when we first bought our Chaparral 310RLTS with both plastic low point drains leaking. Also, the fresh tank drain valve was missing. I used the 1/2" brass PEX valves and crimp rings. Reason being: A) more durable going down the road, B)they are 1/4 turn ball valves, and C) I am rather anal and did not want to see plastic valves hanging from below my unit. See pics below.
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