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Old 05-28-2019, 05:00 AM   #1
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Low pressure kitchen faucet

I have a new 2018 Puma 32RKTS. I'm in a CG running town water. I have good pressure in the bathroom, but very slow water in the kitchen. I popped the aerator off he end of the faucet and there is another aerator about an inch up inside the faucet. Its in there tight so I couldn't get hold of it to pull it out and see, but I think it needs to go away. anyone agree/disagree? To get it out I will likely have to put a screw through it and yank it out.
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Old 05-28-2019, 05:31 AM   #2
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Couple things you might check. I figure RV manufactures are way too cheap to put valves on the supply lines...might check to see and ensure they are open all the way.

I have seen “high quality” as in cheap faucet that had a tube running to to the aerator/outlet make sure it isn’t one of those.

Is hot and cold the same? Kinked line?
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Old 05-28-2019, 02:50 PM   #3
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Very low water pressure in kitchen

We have a new-to-us 2014 Heritage Glen. First time using it was this past weekend. Water pressure was very low in kitchen. We were hooked to campground water. At first it would "splurt" out fine and then it would quickly subside to a only a bit over a trickle. Any suggestions?
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Old 05-28-2019, 03:15 PM   #4
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Was the pressure ever good or always low?

Some of the "pull out faucet" types have a weighted hose supplying them and there have been several posts here of that hose being kinked.
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Old 05-29-2019, 11:26 AM   #5
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Thanks for replying. This was our first weekend out so I'm not sure if low pressure was always a problem or not. For us, after that initial surge of water, it drops off to a dribble -- always. I'll try to check for kinks. Thanks, again.
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Old 05-29-2019, 11:30 AM   #6
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I had an issue with my outside kitchen sink losing pressure, I took the strainer off of the tap, and it was full of wood chips/dust. Cleaned everything out and now it works great. I find wood chips/dust everywhere in my camper, guess they don't clean up after they drill or cut at the factory.
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Old 05-29-2019, 11:35 AM   #7
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Thanks. I'll give that a try, too.
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:47 PM   #8
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None of these problems are "low pressure." They are all "low flow." The pressure is the same throughout your RV. If one faucet is producing less water than others, it's a "low flow" problem.

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Old 05-29-2019, 08:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
None of these problems are "low pressure." They are all "low flow." The pressure is the same throughout your RV. If one faucet is producing less water than others, it's a "low flow" problem.

Larry
It may seem to be low pressure when the water is trickling out, but when you figure out that it is plugged with debris, it turns out to be low flow.
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Old 05-29-2019, 10:26 PM   #10
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It may seem to be low pressure when the water is trickling out, but when you figure out that it is plugged with debris, it turns out to be low flow.
Every time I have a low flow faucet it turns out to be a small white chunk of debris that can be traced back to my hot water tank's anode.

No longer a problem for me as I just remove aerator and flow restrictor to clean. Short of filtering the hot water line it just goes with the territory. If one only camps with full hookups and endless water supply, removing the small orifice flow restrictor that's under the aerator will help, at least until the screen itself plugs.
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Old 05-29-2019, 10:36 PM   #11
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In addition to checking the aerator for debris and the pull out hose for kinks, also pull that flexible hose from the main faucet and check for debris there. I found what looks like Teflon tape or wrapping material left during manufacture. Flushing the water heater from time to time is also helpful and can keep stink from building up. As a last resort, try tracing the piping from the sink to source.
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Old 05-30-2019, 06:56 AM   #12
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You can avoid this

Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
Every time I have a low flow faucet it turns out to be a small white chunk of debris that can be traced back to my hot water tank's anode.

No longer a problem for me as I just remove aerator and flow restrictor to clean. Short of filtering the hot water line it just goes with the territory. If one only camps with full hookups and endless water supply, removing the small orifice flow restrictor that's under the aerator will help, at least until the screen itself plugs.
Mike, the hot water outlet on the water heater is near the top. That's not how anode debris enters the system.

Anode debris enters the system when you drain the system through low-point drains without bypassing the water heater first. If you winterize/drain by these steps you won't draw water heater debris into the system.
  1. Bypass water heater
  2. Drain water heater via anode. Flush through this port if you like.
  3. Drain system through low point drains.
  4. Fill system (in spring or when completing this task).
  5. Restore water heater bypass.

Larry
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Old 05-30-2019, 07:12 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
Mike, the hot water outlet on the water heater is near the top. That's not how anode debris enters the system.

Anode debris enters the system when you drain the system through low-point drains without bypassing the water heater first. If you winterize/drain by these steps you won't draw water heater debris into the system.
  1. Bypass water heater
  2. Drain water heater via anode. Flush through this port if you like.
  3. Drain system through low point drains.
  4. Fill system (in spring or when completing this task).
  5. Restore water heater bypass.

Larry
X2
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Old 05-30-2019, 07:54 AM   #14
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Take the aerator off and clean the little particals out of the screen. Good to go.
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Old 05-30-2019, 08:08 PM   #15
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Our kitchen faucet has a check valve at the mixer. It had debris in it that stopped the flow up the flex hose to the discharge nozzle.
It was not easy to get to but after cleaning it we've had no more flow issues.
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