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Old 09-13-2016, 03:46 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by awellis3 View Post
Ten years as an auto mechanic taught me that an electrical problem such as yours is often caused by the grounding circuit. It is common to both sides of the system and if loose or corroded can cause the problems you are having.
I'll be checking that this weekend. Thanks!!
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Old 09-13-2016, 03:47 PM   #22
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Had the same problem, Found it was the switch in the master panel where you turn it on and off. .. Replaced the switch and have had no problems since.
Did it affect the electric side as well?
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:25 PM   #23
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Clarification. The water heater water is cold, I turn the switch on and the switch light comes on but the DSI light does not.

But then at a later time when I try it again the DSI light DOES come on and then goes out like it normally should and the water heater is functioning normally. The water gets hot.

So sometimes the DSI lights up and the heater lights and sometimes the DSI light does NOT come on at all and the water heater fails to light. In each instance the water is cold to begin with and the propane tank is full. And my water heater bypass valves are in the correct position.

So the problem is sporadic and not all of the time. So something electrical seems to be failing occasionally. If it was all of the time I might be able to figure it out.

It should also be noted that neither of my resets are tripped.

Thanks for the great replies so far.
Have you pulled that on/off switch out to look at it. Easy answer might be bad switch or loose connection at the switch. Try a dead short accross the switch to take it out of the equation. That and of course the manufacturer's trouble shooting guide.

Good luck. And PLEASE WRITE TO US WITH THE OUTCOME.

THANKS. TOM
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Old 09-13-2016, 06:03 PM   #24
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Verify your water heater is not in bypass for winterizing.
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Old 09-14-2016, 01:23 AM   #25
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You say the valves are in the correct position. But if they look like this one, they may not be. These valves are crap. You can turn the handle, but the ball stays put. (And then they'll start leaking.)

I was getting cold water because the bypass valve LOOKED closed, but it was actually OPEN.
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Old 09-14-2016, 06:08 AM   #26
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You say the valves are in the correct position. But if they look like this one, they may not be. These valves are crap. You can turn the handle, but the ball stays put. (And then they'll start leaking.)

I was getting cold water because the bypass valve LOOKED closed, but it was actually OPEN.
But still, the bypass valves in the wrong position would not stop the heater from lighting.
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Old 09-14-2016, 06:10 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Tom48 View Post
Have you pulled that on/off switch out to look at it. Easy answer might be bad switch or loose connection at the switch. Try a dead short accross the switch to take it out of the equation. That and of course the manufacturer's trouble shooting guide.

Good luck. And PLEASE WRITE TO US WITH THE OUTCOME.

THANKS. TOM
It's a possibility worth exploring. Thanks.

And yes, I will post it when I get this issue figured out.
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Old 09-14-2016, 10:17 AM   #28
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Cool No hot water

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Ok, so I just bought a new (to me) 2004 Cedar Creek Silverback 33L BHTS. The first night I spent in it I turned on the Suburban SW6D (or SW6DE) water heater and it fired right up. The next morning it had quit working. I would turn the switch on and the switch would light but the small light that indicated that the heater lighted would not come on. I had a friend bring a voltage tester and it didnít look like any juice was getting to the gas valve terminals. We figured it must be a bad Module. So I switched it to electric to have hot water. The electric worked fine at first (the previous owner replaced the element less than a year ago.) but after a day it quit working too (the breaker was fine).

So about a week later I went back to the camper with a new Module. I decided to try it once more before I installed it and it fired right up. It worked fine Friday evening and Saturday morning but by Saturday afternoon it quit working again. So I installed the new Module, tried it and again nothing happened. Once again the switch lighted up but the little indicator light did not light up. But when closing up the camper on Sunday I tried it once more and again it fired right up!!

Iím now thinking about replacing the gas valve assembly but since I have a couple of weeks before Iíll be out there again I thought Iíd toss it out to you guys before I spend the money. SoÖ..

1) Is there anything you can think of that Iím overlooking that would cause it to stop working intermittingly?
2) Is there a switch or anything to check between the fuse block and module?
3) Could there be a connection between the gas and electric BOTH not working? Are they tied together anywhere?

Thanks in advance for your help on this.
Don't know if you have a factory outside shower, but if you do make sure the faucets are off, not just the shower head. The cold water will mix continuously and you will not have hot water, I know sounds crazy.
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Old 09-14-2016, 12:35 PM   #29
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Don't know if you have a factory outside shower, but if you do make sure the faucets are off, not just the shower head. The cold water will mix continuously and you will not have hot water, I know sounds crazy.
No, not crazy at all. But the issue is not "no hot water", but "no hot water because the water heater is not lighting".
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