Need help with water pump

[jrminiquad]

Just drove from Ohio to Florida for week long motocross race where we are boondocking.

I had already winterized a few weeks ago, so unwinterized before I left. I stopped to fill up with water at a local campground about a half hour from our present location. Had a major brain fart and hooked the hose up to city water connection, until I figured out fresh water tank wasn't filling. Disconnected and filled fresh water tank until water was coming out overflow hose and stuck a bolt in it to prevent siphoning on the drive.

I now cannot get a steady flow of water out of any faucet and pump runs continuously. A whole lot of sputtering going on like a lot of air in the lines. I did remove the bolt from the overflow line because I thought it might not be venting, but no change.

We can't go a week like this. Any tips on what to check?

The cherry on top of my water heater quit working off the battery and propane. DSI light stays on so must be the circuit board that the Suburban water heaters had an issue with. Have to use the generator and electric.

[Flybob]

Did you turn the antifreeze siphon valve back to normal use?

[jrminiquad]

Yes, valve was in correct position.

I think I have it solved though, thanks to a wet foot. Small leak which I tracked down to the plastic adapter to pump connection for the winterizing kit. Must have been loose enough to suck air. As soon as I tightened it a bit the lines pressurized and the pump shut off.

[bubbles]

Just a note. That hose you stuck the bolt in (if underneath unit) is actually the vent for the tank. It is thought of as being the overflow tube and is an indication of tank fullness but its primary function is the vent. Don't forget to always remove that bolt before using the pump.

[TheWolfPaq82]

I must chime in on the fact he stuck a bolt in the vent to prevent "Siphoning" of the tank. By design...it would be physically impossible for the FW tank to siphon itself as it would require that the overflow vent extend all the way to bottom of the tank inside for siphoning to be possible. Tanks are not constructed this way.

[Flybob]

The previous post is correct if the tank is built correctly. Unfortunately in some instances, the vent hose sticks too far down into the tank and will siphon some water out during travel.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

I must chime in on the fact he stuck a bolt in the vent to prevent "Siphoning" of the tank. By design...it would be physically impossible for the FW tank to siphon itself as it would require that the overflow vent extend all the way to bottom of the tank inside for siphoning to be possible. Tanks are not constructed this way.

In reality, the vent tube can become a Venturi tube when driving down the highway and can start a siphon based on the angle of the tank when connected. Many campers do not ride perfectly level and based on how the tank sits at towing attitude can prevent the tank from filling completely and in transit can actually suck out a few gallons of usable water.

In the photos you can see that the tank only indicates 1/2 full on the lights, yet the tank will not accept more water due to the angle and location of the white fill hose and vent clear vinyl hose. You would think that disconnecting and tilting the trailer back towards the rear while filling would give you a full tank, but when you reconnect the water will just come back out. It is best just to put as much in as you can while connected and fill some 5 gallon water bottles to top off the fresh tank when you get level. They will come in handy when it is time to refill the tank without moving the camper.

I made a fill hose for 5 gallon water bottles from a piece of vinyl tubing and a water bottle cap. (photo) A tiny air hole will prevent the bottle from collapsing as you fill the gravity water fill port.

Plugging the vent line will prevent the Venturi effect when traveling, but will also prevent the water from flowing if left installed when you run the pump.