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Old 09-30-2012, 04:07 PM   #1
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need winterizing help...

I have drained all my water lines, bypassed the hot water heater, trying now to put antifreeze in the lines. Put antifreeze in the freshwater tank as advised by the manual. In turning on the water pump the water lines seem to pressurize, but all I get is sputtering in the lines (hot or cold) and no return of the pink stuff. I've not detected any leaks in the system, the water pump is working, the water filter canister is not filling. Where do I go from here?
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Old 09-30-2012, 04:48 PM   #2
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I have drained all my water lines, bypassed the hot water heater, trying now to put antifreeze in the lines. Put antifreeze in the freshwater tank as advised by the manual. In turning on the water pump the water lines seem to pressurize, but all I get is sputtering in the lines (hot or cold) and no return of the pink stuff. I've not detected any leaks in the system, the water pump is working, the water filter canister is not filling. Where do I go from here?
Sounds as though you have not pumped enough AF at this point. Could be you pumped until the suction of the pump is exposed, thus the gurgling and air escape. Is the water heater bypassed? remove anode slowly to make sure, thats 6-10 gallons right there. It only takes a few gallons or less to fill the system, the tank could be 5 gallons of lost space though if the hose is not directly on the low point. A better way is to use the pump direct suction hose into the jug and pump direct.
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Old 09-30-2012, 04:50 PM   #3
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NO!! don't put antifreeze in the FW tank!
i don't know what manual you have, but you'll spend gallons and gallons of water to get the taste out, when you un-winterize.

you should have asked here, before you did it.
there's no need to winterize the FW tank, the water heater or your holding tanks, as long as they are empty.
what little water remains has plenty of room to expand.
it's the water lines that don't have the room, if residual water freezes and expands. that's why you put antifreeze in the lines.

that's why most buy a winterizing kit, to bypass the FW tank and pump the AF directly into the lines. of course, you also use the bypass valve on the water heater.
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:16 PM   #4
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NO!! don't put antifreeze in the FW tank!
i don't know what manual you have, but you'll spend gallons and gallons of water to get the taste out, when you un-winterize.

you should have asked here, before you did it.
there's no need to winterize the FW tank, the water heater or your holding tanks, as long as they are empty.
what little water remains has plenty of room to expand.
it's the water lines that don't have the room, if residual water freezes and expands. that's why you put antifreeze in the lines.

that's why most buy a winterizing kit, to bypass the FW tank and pump the AF directly into the lines. of course, you also use the bypass valve on the water heater.
I think you were 4 hours late! Between both of us maybe he'll convert over to the pump suction method. Actually the antifreeze sold now days is safe and diluted taste free. No big loss, sounds as though he put x amount in tank, then ran pump till it ran dry. But like I said it was hours before either of us noted it, my opinion, I blow dry with compressed air, done it for near 20 years and we have sub zero weather on occasion, never lost a fitting. I did check my Owners manual and on page 50 it clearly describes exactly what he did. Most of us who had units for awhile know better, but he's a new owner following Mfgs. instructions! Look ahead, he'll get it.
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:26 PM   #5
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OK I'm real new at this... my impression was that putting RV plumbing(non-toxic) anti-freeze into the fresh-water tank allowed one to pump the AF into the trailer lines to prevent winter damage. I believe I have bypassed the hot water heater. After draining the water lines, I added non-toxic AF to the FW tank thinking to use the water pump to infuse the water lines with AF. With the water pump on and all lines open( except the water heater bypass) all I'm getting is hiss and sputter at the taps. The fresh water tank level remains constant at around 1/2 inch depth of non-toxic AF.
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:35 PM   #6
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And yeah, I would like to learn the direct water pump method of winterizing... I'm just feeling my way through this with no trailer buddies yet...
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:15 PM   #7
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Yes!!! Thanks VinceU!!! I did follow the manufacturer instructions. Judging by the manuals I've been reading so far, one needs to be an expert before starting! The manuals tell little & leave one guessing. Thank goodness for folks such as you and bikendan willing to share your time and expertise with noobs like myself!

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Old 09-30-2012, 08:20 PM   #8
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OK I'm real new at this... my impression was that putting RV plumbing(non-toxic) anti-freeze into the fresh-water tank allowed one to pump the AF into the trailer lines to prevent winter damage. I believe I have bypassed the hot water heater. After draining the water lines, I added non-toxic AF to the FW tank thinking to use the water pump to infuse the water lines with AF. With the water pump on and all lines open( except the water heater bypass) all I'm getting is hiss and sputter at the taps. The fresh water tank level remains constant at around 1/2 inch depth of non-toxic AF.
You can see the tank level, thats good. Since the hose is about 3/4" diameter its probably just barely at periscope depth, meaning its sucking air. You have found the heater and its "piping" and valves, have you found the pump also? If you have the suction side will have a strainer (small filter) on the inlet of the pump. Follow that hose back, if fitted with set of valves and a length of teed in hose with capped end, that will be the winterizing line. If not fitted, you can add one per Bikendans advice but may be too late this year, you'll loose all your AF.
BTW the book provided to me from FR shows exactly what you did, add AF to tank. I use compressed air in lieu of AF, no problems. Here's a dumb idea, if you can temporariily list or tilt your camper to get the fluid over the suction you can probably finish up.
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:23 PM   #9
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Nammy,
In order to help you get a visual, go to u-tube and google rv winterizing. There will be several different video's. Watch several because not all rv's are exactly the same and not all video's show the same exact way. Hopefully they will help you out to locate specific items and help you with your procedures. After looking at video's you may have more questions to ask, but having the visual helps.
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceU

You can see the tank level, thats good. Since the hose is about 3/4" diameter its probably just barely at periscope depth, meaning its sucking air. You have found the heater and its "piping" and valves, have you found the pump also? If you have the suction side will have a strainer (small filter) on the inlet of the pump. Follow that hose back, if fitted with set of valves and a length of teed in hose with capped end, that will be the winterizing line. If not fitted, you can add one per Bikendans advice but may be too late this year, you'll loose all your AF.
BTW the book provided to me from FR shows exactly what you did, add AF to tank. I use compressed air in lieu of AF, no problems. Here's a dumb idea, if you can temporariily list or tilt your camper to get the fluid over the suction you can probably finish up.
If you are going to go down the route of putting in a bypass line yet this year, it might not be too late. If your FW tank still has all of the RV anti-freeze in it you might be able to use the FW tank drain to drain it back into the anti-freeze jugs. Will take some careful positioning of the jug, but a funnel in the top of the jug might help. If this works you can then use it with the winterizing kit. Just a thought.
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