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Old 10-20-2011, 08:55 PM   #1
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New Thread from Water Pump questions

Oh, like F100turbo said; NEVER put RV antifreeze in the fresh tank. UGH
You will never get the taste out of the water.

Just drain using the outside drain spigot.
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:55 PM   #2
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Thanks so much for your input, all of you!!
I seriously don't know what I would do if this forum wasn't here, you are all so helpful!!

I will check on the pump as soon as I get my battery recharged and I will report back here
Everyone please keep your fingers crossed for me that it still works.
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:18 PM   #3
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Btw.......when by-passing WH, what direction do the levers go, vertical to the hose or horizontal to it?
I just want to make sure that those guys did it since there was antifreeze around the WH area I am not sure if they by-passed it or not.
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:23 PM   #4
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The water lines in and out of the water heater should have the levels turned at a 90 degree angle to the lines. The bypass level should line up with the water line. I'm sure Lou (HERK) should have an illustration that he can post for you.
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugged Brown View Post
The water lines in and out of the water heater should have the levels turned at a 90 degree angle to the lines. The bypass level should line up with the water line. I'm sure Lou (HERK) should have an illustration that he can post for you.
I can only hope for a diagram,....hint.....hint.......

But you are saying that when the bypass is 'on', the levers are parallel with the water line, when bypass is 'off' they are at 90 degree (perpendicular) to line?
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:44 PM   #6
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There are 3 levers. The water supply (cold) and the hot water line. These should be at 90. The lever between these 2 lines should be parallel.

lou: help out with your illustration.
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:18 PM   #7
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The photo shows the valves in the "operate" positions. They should be turned 90 degrees to be in bypass.
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:04 AM   #8
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Ahh, they say a picture is worth a thousand words, and it is so true.

It is much easier now to understand that the bypass line needs to be 'open' ( lever parallel with line) and the hot and cold intake lines be 'closed' (lever @ 90 degrees).

I really needed this diagram so when I check to see if they actually did bypass the WH, I will know exactly what to look for.

Thank you!!!!!
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Ahh, they say a picture is worth a thousand words, and it is so true.

It is much easier now to understand that the bypass line needs to be 'open' ( lever parallel with line) and the hot and cold intake lines be 'closed' (lever @ 90 degrees).

I really needed this diagram so when I check to see if they actually did bypass the WH, I will know exactly what to look for.

Thank you!!!!!


Herk always comes through in a crunch.
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:07 PM   #10
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Awe Shucks.

Also be aware there is a possibility of a two valve bypass kit using three-way "T" valves. These valves should only be able to turn 90 degrees, so they will both turned the same way to isolate the tank.

You can tell you have a two valve system ONLY IF you have 3 hoses going into each valve. It you have just two valves with only two hoses going in each one; then you do not have an isolation kit installed.
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