Newbie questions on first time water hookup

Bowhnter · 05-01-2015, 11:04 AM

I will be hooking up the water for the first time so we can understand it's workings before our first ever trip next weekend.

When we turn on the water, does it automatically fill the tank that needs heated or is there something I need to do to first?

Do we need to leave any faucets open to get any air out when the water is first turned on?

I see where to turn the water heater on, but how do I get the electric and gas at the same time if I want to?

I do have a pressure regulator.

Thanks in advance.

MrJoe · 05-01-2015, 11:44 AM

This is what I do.

1) Make sure the by-pass, if equipped, for the water heater is not in by-pass mode.
2) Close all faucets
3) Make sure the house water filter housing is snug. I'd do the first fill without the filter since I'd disinfect the system. (This is a different procedure)
4) Slowly turn on the shore water.
5) Inspect for leaks.
6) Open a hot water faucet to purge air.
7) Check hot water tank for water by lifting the relief valve slowly (on tank). Confirm water is present. With a full tank it's safe to energize the water heater.
8) Confirm water is available at all faucets.
9) Check for leaks.

RVPP · 05-01-2015, 11:48 AM

If equipped, open the by-pass valve at the hot water heater (feed line) and close the drain on the hot water heater. Regarding water tank, that's filled via a separate opening and you might not want a full tank when towing (extra weight). And yes, leave a faucet open, I use the shower (less splash) and I start with the cold. And don't forget the toilet. One more thing, I leave the on-board tank about 1/3 full in case we need the toilet while traveling. Enjoy.
Paul

TURBS · 05-01-2015, 11:55 AM

DO NOT open a hot water tap to purge the air from hw tank this could be detrimental advice.
You should always purge it from the pressure relief valve.

Leave taps closed, open pressure relief valve and turn on water pump or city water and fill tank till air has escaped from hw tank, only after un bypassing wh.

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded, 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "2 nights"

Bowhnter · 05-01-2015, 02:13 PM

one more thing, when I am hooked to shore water and have not filled the fresh water tank, does the fresh tank just stay empty?

My manual mentions nothing of a HW bypass valve.

Water is working, but I am not sure about the heater yet. I do not see anyplace 'convenient' to just get to the to hot water tank and look. Presuming it is behind a panel somewhere but surely one wouldn't have to take a panel off to look each time out. Am I missing something, or just go ahead and turn the heater on?

TURBS · 05-01-2015, 02:15 PM

Yes fw tank remains dry when on city water.
And yes you may have to remove a panel or two!
Eee gads!

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded, 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "2 nights"

Happy Vibe · 05-01-2015, 02:27 PM

Turbs can you explain the not opening the hot water tap? My manual says there should be an air pocket in the tank to allow for expansion, I believe if you use the pressure relief valve you will not have this pocket and you can get leakage from the pressure relief valve when the water heats up.

TURBS · 05-01-2015, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Happy Vibe

Turbs can you explain the not opening the hot water tap? My manual says there should be an air pocket in the tank to allow for expansion, I believe if you use the pressure relief valve you will not have this pocket and you can get leakage from the pressure relief valve when the water heats up.

You won't get all the air out with the expansion valve as well.
Now here's why you shouldn't use a hot water tap to check or get air out of hw tank.
1) it's possible you forgot to un by pass hw heater and you'll "still" get water from your hot water tap.

2) you turn your bypass valves to summer position but the internals did not. "it's happened here on frf"

All this leads to not having water in your wh tank and we'll a burnt element.

Your pressure relief valve is a few inches below the top so you'll still have an air pocket .

Make sense?

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded, 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "2 nights"

OldCoot · 05-01-2015, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Happy Vibe

Turbs can you explain the not opening the hot water tap? My manual says there should be an air pocket in the tank to allow for expansion, I believe if you use the pressure relief valve you will not have this pocket and you can get leakage from the pressure relief valve when the water heats up.

The water heater doesn't need a big pocket of air and the pressure relief is not actually in the very top of the tank. Opening a faucet can result in a pretty forceful blast of air and with the cheap plastic faucets, you could actually do damage to them. IF you insist, I would open them very slowly, but I always flip the pressure relief on the water heater first.

Happy Vibe · 05-01-2015, 02:38 PM

I open my faucet and then turn on the water at a slow rate so I don't get the blast of air. I leave my cover off the WH so I can hear the water going into the tank.

Bowhnter · 05-01-2015, 02:41 PM

Opening a panel is not a problem, I just figure if I need into it each time, it is going to get a hinge. Getting to this one by the slide is not straight on access.

My tank is enclosed and do not see any way to look into it.

Also, I see a cord was left unplugged, I assume this is for electric heat and should have been plugged in.

TURBS · 05-01-2015, 02:43 PM

I removed my panel and promptly deposited in the circular file.

They've been known not to plug it in from the factory.

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded, 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "2 nights"

The Outdoor Duffle Bag · 05-01-2015, 02:55 PM

Make sure the bypass is turned to direct water to the HW heater. I flip the presser relief valve first. Make sure your Anode is in also! Then turn on the water and then the pump. Once the heater fills up I close it. Then open the faucets slowly starting with the ones closest to the pump or outside water hook up.

**bikendan** · 05-01-2015, 07:08 PM

Wow, doesn't any dealer provide a decent walk-through anymore?
This is basic stuff that they should be providing new owners with.

B and B · 05-01-2015, 08:44 PM

I actually leave my hot water low point drain open until the tank is full. I use the pump and water in the tank to de winterize

Bowhnter · 05-01-2015, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikendan

Wow, doesn't any dealer provide a decent walk-through anymore?
This is basic stuff that they should be providing new owners with.

Well, I have to say no, but I also think part of my questioning is I started reading too much here and then start second guessing because the dealer made it seem so simple. Hook up the water and turn on the faucet. Models vary so much that not everyone's application is the same.

Oaklevel · 05-01-2015, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bowhnter

Opening a panel is not a problem, I just figure if I need into it each time, it is going to get a hinge. Getting to this one by the slide is not straight on access.

My tank is enclosed and do not see any way to look into it.

Also, I see a cord was left unplugged, I assume this is for electric heat and should have been plugged in.

You usually access the pressure relief valve from the RV outside cover. The by pass valves from the inside panel (Usually only open & close for winterizing & dewinterizing ) Confusing the first few times.

kevinstennes · 05-02-2015, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bowhnter

one more thing, when I am hooked to shore water and have not filled the fresh water tank, does the fresh tank just stay empty?

My manual mentions nothing of a HW bypass valve.

Water is working, but I am not sure about the heater yet. I do not see anyplace 'convenient' to just get to the to hot water tank and look. Presuming it is behind a panel somewhere but surely one wouldn't have to take a panel off to look each time out. Am I missing something, or just go ahead and turn the heater on?

Bowhnter, in my trailer, I can crawl in from the "passenger side" front storage and access my water heater (which is behind a panel that doesn't need to be removed). I can access the valves that way. You might check that on your unit.

conceptumator · 05-02-2015, 01:10 PM

Couple of other things to keep in mind:

1. I'm a bit paranoid about germs, so I carry a spray bottle of bleach water and give all the connections a quick spritz before hooking up.

2. While stored, I hook both ends of the water hose together to keep things out of it.

3. Always connect the hose to the spigot first and run the water for a second. It not only clears the air from the hose, it lets any rust, etc in the campground water system clear.

Have fun!

BOBFIDY · 05-02-2015, 01:39 PM

I guess I am in line for some "BAD DAMAGE". For 4 years I have hooked up the water hose, gone inside, turned on the water faucets to purge the air. Having been in the plumbing business for more than a few years.....the quickest way to start a leak from a TP valve is to "play" with it. After all of the air is purged from ALL of the faucets.....Kitchen sink, bath lav, shower, and toilet flush valve.....then I open the gas bottle valves and turn on the water heater, and wait to make sure that the water heater has fired off. To winterize I remove the anode from the water heater, remove the low water drains and blow air thru each valve.....1 at a time to get all of the water out of each separate lines, put rv anti freeze in each trap, and park it.

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