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09-06-2013, 10:19 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 31
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No Anode Rod?
Yes...I'm a Newb! Should all hot water heaters have an anode rod? Just bought my trailer and fired up the hot water system tonight for the first time. Works great but no anode rod? Only plug is for the drain... Also water was dripping from the pressure relief spigot as the water was heating. Continued to drip even after flame shut down. Is this normal?
Thanks in advance!
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09-06-2013, 10:26 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnoGhost
Yes...I'm a Newb! Should all hot water heaters have an anode rod? Just bought my trailer and fired up the hot water system tonight for the first time. Works great but no anode rod? Only plug is for the drain... Also water was dripping from the pressure relief spigot as the water was heating. Continued to drip even after flame shut down. Is this normal?
Thanks in advance!
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What kind of water heater do you have?
On my heater the drain is also the anode rod, maybe yours too!
Mine sometimes drips a bit from the relief valve, press it a few times, don't burn yourself, and it should seat itself. What is the campsite water pressure like, too high? Use a regulator.
__________________
Nigel & Bev
Brit Driver & Canadian Naviguesser 
We summer in Cowichan Valley BC Canada & winter in Monchique Portugal great camping in both!
2011 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8280ws 2011 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 Diesel 2000 Honda S2000
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09-06-2013, 10:36 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: BoCoMo
Posts: 2,784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnoGhost
Yes...I'm a Newb! Should all hot water heaters have an anode rod? Just bought my trailer and fired up the hot water system tonight for the first time. Works great but no anode rod? Only plug is for the drain... Also water was dripping from the pressure relief spigot as the water was heating. Continued to drip even after flame shut down. Is this normal?
Thanks in advance!
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Is your water heater a dual fuel heater? Electric and propane? If it is only propane it will not have an anode rod. The 'hole' and plug that you see is used for drain the tank. If it is electric I believe that a rod should be in it and if it is not there it was taken out and not replaced for some reason, imo.
The 'drip' is most likely from a calcium particular lodged in the drain valve from someone opening it to drain out some water. Tap on the pull out pin gently with a hammer. This may 'crush' the calcium and let it seat correctly. If it still drips then after your trip remove and replace or remove and soak in vinegar for a while, with the spring lever 'open' and brush clean and replace. should be alright.
__________________
Brother Les
2013 Forest River Salem Hemisphere SBT312QBUD
2001 CrewCab F-250 7.3 PowerStroke Diesel
SuperChip, BTS transmission, 6.0 Trans Cooler
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09-06-2013, 10:42 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nigels
What kind of water heater do you have?
On my heater the drain is also the anode rod, maybe yours too!
Mine sometimes drips a bit from the relief valve, press it a few times, don't burn yourself, and it should seat itself. What is the campsite water pressure like, too high? Use a regulator.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Les
Is your water heater a dual fuel heater? Electric and propane? If it is only propane it will not have an anode rod. The 'hole' and plug that you see is used for drain the tank. If it is electric I believe that a rod should be in it and if it is not there it was taken out and not replaced for some reason, imo.
The 'drip' is most likely from a calcium particular lodged in the drain valve from someone opening it to drain out some water. Tap on the pull out pin gently with a hammer. This may 'crush' the calcium and let it seat correctly. If it still drips then after your trip remove and replace or remove and soak in vinegar for a while, with the spring lever 'open' and brush clean and replace. should be alright.
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It is propane and electric. In looking at the FAQ section this forum I found a photo of an anode rod and the drain plug which it is attached to, which looks exactly like mine. I think it's been removed and not replaced. Thanks for the tips in the drip... 
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09-06-2013, 10:53 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnoGhost
It is propane and electric. In looking at the FAQ section this forum I found a photo of an anode rod and the drain plug which it is attached to, which looks exactly like mine. I think it's been removed and not replaced. Thanks for the tips in the drip... |
Is your W/H a Suburban? What type of (Plug) is in the drain hole now? Is it 1/2 or 3/4 NTP thread? Youroo!! 
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09-06-2013, 11:06 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SD
Posts: 441
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Mine has what at first glance appeared to be a plug. Later I learned that it used to be an anode rod that was completely disintegrated. I bought a new anode rod/plug and installed that. I still use the old "plug" to loosely thread in when the WH is empty as it threads in easier than the anode.
__________________
2015 Sierra 357TRIP
2012 Ram 2500 CCSB 6.7CTD
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09-06-2013, 11:49 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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Again, what brand of water heater? My Atwood tank is made of aluminum and doesn't use an anode. Suburban tanks are generally steel and need one.
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09-07-2013, 01:36 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Coquitlam, BC
Posts: 165
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As mentioned no anode rod probably means your tank is made from Aluminum. It may also be glass lined.
The leaking from the pressure relief may be normal, or the valve may need to be replaced. Here's a few things that you can try.
1. Sometimes they reseat better if you manually use the lever to let some water escape, and close it again.
2. Cold water in the tank expands when it's heated increasing the pressure. This extra pressure may cause the relief valve to leak. This can happen especially if you are running off a city water line with high pressure, and/or there is no air pocket in the tank. A lot of people will say to try and get rid of ALL the air in the tank, but there is usually a small pocket of air above the relief valve and hot water line in the trailer. This pocket of air can compress preventing leaks from the pressure change when heating. But this air pocket can escape during travel, as things bounce around. To restore it, drain the tank completely and re-fill it.
3. I'd suggest using a pressure regulator on the city water inlet, or run off the fresh water tank and pump to see if this issue goes away. If it still leaks, replace it.
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09-07-2013, 12:29 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
Is your W/H a Suburban? What type of (Plug) is in the drain hole now? Is it 1/2 or 3/4 NTP thread? Youroo!! |
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryD0706
Again, what brand of water heater? My Atwood tank is made of aluminum and doesn't use an anode. Suburban tanks are generally steel and need one.
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I believe it's a Saburban Tank. The hole is 3/4 NTP. Considering everything you have all mentioned on here I'm now very sure that the rod has either disintgrated or has been removed. The inside of the plug appears all calcified so can I buy a new plug with the rod attached?
Thanks everyone! You guys are the best. So much helpful stuff and good people on here! 
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09-09-2013, 10:33 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 31
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So bought the new anode rod today. I was surprised at how big those rods really are. When I removed the plug and drained the hot water tank, which I just filled a couple of days ago, there was some rusty colored water and some sediment in the last 1/2 gallon or so. I used the garden hose and sprayed some water into the drain hole and flushed it out with about 2 to 3 gallons of water. Water was running clear at the end. Should I be concerned about the condition of the tank liner? What should I look for that would indicate an issue with the liner?
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09-10-2013, 06:04 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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A leak to the outside. Will it produce Hot water?  Youroo!!
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09-10-2013, 11:15 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 31
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Yes. It is producing hot water.
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09-10-2013, 11:37 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Coquitlam, BC
Posts: 165
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I had assumed this was a new trailer, but it must be used otherwise there wouldn't have been enough time for the anode rod to get used up completely. Never thought of that when I first posted, doh!
I bought a water heater tank flusher, a simple spray wand that connects to your garden hose so you can spray the sides of your tank. I was surprised how much sediment I got out of my tank when I first used it - and that was after just 1 year of use. You might want to invest in one of these $6 tools too.
Water Heater Tank Rinser - Camco 11691 - Water Heaters - Camping World
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09-10-2013, 06:59 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOC
I had assumed this was a new trailer, but it must be used otherwise there wouldn't have been enough time for the anode rod to get used up completely. Never thought of that when I first posted, doh!
I bought a water heater tank flusher, a simple spray wand that connects to your garden hose so you can spray the sides of your tank. I was surprised how much sediment I got out of my tank when I first used it - and that was after just 1 year of use. You might want to invest in one of these $6 tools too.
Water Heater Tank Rinser - Camco 11691 - Water Heaters - Camping World |
Looks as though it might be $10 well spent.
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09-11-2013, 09:09 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Carrollton
Posts: 184
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Most water heater that don't require an anode rod have plastic plugs .
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