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05-11-2016, 01:53 PM
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#41
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,173
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No hot water
Quote:
Originally Posted by doc73
Off topic, but do all water heater have a check valve? See,s to be a bunch of folk here that have had the lines reversed that theoretically would mean they should have no water but do?
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Mine doesn't. During my changing out of my valve (see post a few above) after all said and done I turned the water back on and ended up backfilling about 1/3 of the tank from the top before I remembered I had closed the bottom valve before draining the tank earlier.
Edit: forgot to mention the bypass valve was also open.... I was trying a lot of things that day.
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There's no use crying over spilt milk... unless it's on your keyboard.
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05-11-2016, 01:55 PM
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#42
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Who Dares, Wins
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Chester County, PA
Posts: 7,063
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Ok thanks, I did not think mine did either.
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Pat, Jen, Heather & Sapphire, the head mouser.
2015 Chevy HD D-Max
2022 Impression 315MB
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05-11-2016, 02:44 PM
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#43
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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Atwood water heaters have a check valve, Suburban water heaters do not.
Atwood's winterize utilizing a 3-way valve and the check valve, Suburban's utilize the three valve setup.
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Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin! 
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05-11-2016, 02:57 PM
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#44
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
Atwood water heaters have a check valve, Suburban water heaters do not.
Atwood's winterize utilizing a 3-way valve and the check valve, Suburban's utilize the three valve setup.
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Bama, as many of these water heater threads as I have been involved in, I haven't really found that to be the case in my experiences. It depends on how the manufacturers plumbed the water heater and how many valves they used for the bypass operation. They can use either one, two, or the three valve system. The one valve systems (and some of the two valve) usually involve some kind of internal check (aka backflow preventer) valve being utilized, whereas the three valve system doesn't need such.
I was just involved in this thread a few weeks ago, where the member had a Suburban water heater and only one bypass valve. The way this system is setup, is that when you open the bypass/crossover line, it closes the cold water inlet at the same time. There is an internal check valve installed in the hot water outlet, that prevents water backflowing into the water heater.
Here is the thread I am referring to, that has some good member pics.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...er-106710.html
It sure would make it easier on us and offering advice if there was a consistency in the plumbing across all RV model and/or water heater brands....but I just haven't find such yet.
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 2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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05-11-2016, 03:22 PM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: West Atlanta Metro
Posts: 1,235
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As Wmtire stated, it probably depends on the manufacturer as to how it is plumbed. I have a Palamino with a Suburban WH and they used a check valve on the WH outlet.
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2011 F-150 Super Crew XLT
Days camped in 2014 - 23 Camped 2015-47
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KT4W
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05-11-2016, 03:31 PM
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#46
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,173
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Well, it makes sense that it's up to the trailer manufacturer on how they plumb the lines going to the water heater, but wouldn't it be up to the water heater manufacturer whether or not the water heater had an internal check valve?
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There's no use crying over spilt milk... unless it's on your keyboard.
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05-11-2016, 03:37 PM
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#47
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tipp City, OH
Posts: 7,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaadk
Well, it makes sense that it's up to the trailer manufacturer on how they plumb the lines going to the water heater, but wouldn't it be up to the water heater manufacturer whether or not the water heater had an internal check valve?
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Not really, the RV manufacturer does the plumbing, the check valve is there only for the instance that the manufacturer needs it for. Really has nothing to do with making hot water.
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2016 Georgetown 364TS
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05-11-2016, 04:45 PM
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#48
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaadk
Well, it makes sense that it's up to the trailer manufacturer on how they plumb the lines going to the water heater, but wouldn't it be up to the water heater manufacturer whether or not the water heater had an internal check valve?
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Mike, all of the check valves I have seen are plumbed at the hot water outlet, but not internal to the water heater itself. They are only internal to the water line/fitting.
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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05-11-2016, 04:55 PM
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#49
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Georgia Rally Coordinator
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: GA
Posts: 24,452
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In the last 4 campers I have had they all had the 3 valves and only one is turned in summer to get hot water. No check valves. Later RJD
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Days camped 2020 49 days camped 2021-74 2022-40 days 2023 5 days
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05-11-2016, 05:48 PM
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#50
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire
Mike, all of the check valves I have seen are plumbed at the hot water outlet, but not internal to the water heater itself. They are only internal to the water line/fitting.
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Ahh, now I know. I always thought they were internal to the tank. (Not having had one myself.)
External ones then are really nothing more than a valve you don't have to turn and can be easily replaced by a valve if needed.
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There's no use crying over spilt milk... unless it's on your keyboard.
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05-12-2016, 11:04 AM
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#51
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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I stand corrected! :|
Of all the water heaters I've seen, all the Atwood's have had the 3-way/check valve setup and all the Suburban's have had the three individual valves. Luck of the draw, I guess.
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Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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05-16-2016, 09:35 AM
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#52
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 12
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Well I got it figured out. It was a bad elbow that was on the hot line. On mine, the hot comes out the back, has about a 15 inch run then makes a turn under my cabinet before the check valves. I cut the line out and replaced the elbow and now have hot water running. Thanks everyone for the suggestions!
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05-16-2016, 09:57 AM
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#53
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 12
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Had same problem, with the three valves AND a check valve on the hot side. The valve had come apart and the moving stem inside the valve body had come loose from it's keeper and the stem blocks water flow in the forward direction. Pull the "out" connection and see if that's the problem.
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05-16-2016, 09:08 PM
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#54
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Po Po Pork
Well I got it figured out. It was a bad elbow that was on the hot line. On mine, the hot comes out the back, has about a 15 inch run then makes a turn under my cabinet before the check valves. I cut the line out and replaced the elbow and now have hot water running. Thanks everyone for the suggestions!
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Glad you got it all solved and thanks for reporting back with the solution. That will helps others in the future.
I don't suppose you took pics of the bad part, did you?
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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05-17-2016, 06:54 AM
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#55
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tipp City, OH
Posts: 7,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire
Glad you got it all solved and thanks for reporting back with the solution. That will helps others in the future.
I don't suppose you took pics of the bad part, did you?
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Kinda wondering myself, how an elbow is bad, unless during the molding process the internal mold slides didn't seal off against each other creating the opening.
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