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Old 05-08-2013, 09:44 PM   #11
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I am plugged into house power via adapter from the 30 amp plug
That's OK, have you made sure the breaker in the trailer that controls the water heater hasn't tripped, or is turned off?

Do you know that the house breaker hasn't tripped to the outlet you are using to power the trailer with? The reason I asked is that the electric heating element uses around 12 amps of electricity by itself, and if you are on a 15/20 amp house outlet, it doesn't take much more stuff to overload it.....especially if anything else in your house is also using that same circuit.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:45 PM   #12
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Check the breaker, or if you have a interior switch for electric only. The majority ( if not modded) only have a propane switch inside.

If it isn't a switch then I'd look at replacing the element. At least you have hot water on propane.

Is there a chance it ran on electric without water in the tank? If so, most likely it toasted the element. If the electric was on and you were filling up the water tank or it was on before the city hookup could fill the hot water tank it will happen

If so, either put in an electric only switch, shut off the rocker switch, or the circuit breaker until you know it is filled.

Good luck!
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:46 PM   #13
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Sorry wmtire beat me!
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:51 PM   #14
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Sorry wmtire beat me!
LOL

Something else to point out just in case you may not know, although not water heater related. You said you were using the adapter, which is fine. However, since you are now limiting yourself to half the amps your trailer is normally set up for....DO NOT attempt to run your air-conditioner if on a 15 amp outlet. You can possibly ruin it.

The way you are connected via the adapter is fine, when using lights, charging the battery via converter, and other light electrical things. You just don't need to use the heavy electrical appliances when hooked up to a 15 amp.

I'm not trying to insult your intelligence and please never interpret it that way. I am not familiar with your experience level, and see you just joined the forums.....so am taking it like this is your very first RV (although this could be your 100th).
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:59 PM   #15
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It seems to sound like water is boiling when I put my ear near the tank...kind of sounds like water bubbles popping. Does flipping the relief valve and have it pour water out mean there is water in the tank? Also, what's it typically cost for a replacement heat unit?
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:06 PM   #16
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It seems to sound like water is boiling when I put my ear near the tank...kind of sounds like water bubbles popping. Does flipping the relief valve and have it pour water out mean there is water in the tank? Also, what's it typically cost for a replacement heat unit?
Yes, is the water that comes out the relief valve hot?

If you only have one water heater switch inside the trailer (you could possibly have two), is this switch off (so the propane side won't come on)?

How long have you had the electrical element on, as it takes longer to heat water than the propane burner? From what you describe, it sounds like the electrical element heating water.

Are you handy with a Ohm meter/multi-tester? We can check the element that way to see if it is bad/good before worrying about replacing it.

Dan just posted this the other day:

Cheapest price for electric element
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:15 PM   #17
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I'll test the water temp coming out of relief valve tomorrow...but what I felt in the short time testing is that it was cold. If it comes out cold would that pretty much point to needing new heating element?
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:18 PM   #18
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I'll test the water temp coming out of relief valve tomorrow...but what I felt in the short time testing is that it was cold. If it comes out cold would that pretty much point to needing new heating element?
It appears everything is pointing in that direction.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:20 PM   #19
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I'll test the water temp coming out of relief valve tomorrow...but what I felt in the short time testing is that it was cold. If it comes out cold would that pretty much point to needing new heating element?
Well, not necessarily. There are other reasons, including no electrical getting to the element so it can heat water. This can be caused for a variety of reasons both human and mechanical (switches, breakers, or thermostat....which we haven't checked yet), which we all have been trying to point out for you to check.

A burned out element is also possible, and a very common occurrence.

Were all the breakers....both in your house and in the trailer good?
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:30 PM   #20
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I'll check all breakers tomorrow AM, I'll see if the water coming out of relief valve is hot, ill check all that. I'll pick up a new heating element as well, just in case.
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