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Old 11-27-2016, 01:22 PM   #1
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No water to toilet...I'm confused.

Coming home from NC this weekend and found that the toilet in our 3100SS isn't flushing, either on the pump or hooked up to city water. Pressure is normal everywhere else. When I step on the pedal, just a trickle goes into the bowl. I'm the second owner, and have had it for almost 3 years without any issues, so it's improbable that it's construction leftovers somewhere. I'm wondering if there's a valve issue with the toilet, but can't find much info on how it works. Figured I'd throw it out to this group before I start taking things apart. Any thoughts on where to look/what to look at?
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Old 11-27-2016, 01:27 PM   #2
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Unscrew water line behind toilet, see if you have water flow there, if so it will be the valve in the toilet. If I remember right there is a linkage from the lever to the valve that may have come off.
good luck
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Old 11-27-2016, 02:16 PM   #3
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I had a plastic linkage rod break on a toilet many years ago which did the same thing.
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Old 11-27-2016, 02:25 PM   #4
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OK...so improbable, but not impossible! Good flow at the water line going to the toilet, so I took out the flusher, which was plugged with this grey/white pasty stuff...no clue where it came from. Cleared that out, put it back together, and all is good. On my toilet, the pedal doesn't have to come out. I figured that out by taking it out and reading "DANGER do not remove" molded into the plastic. I got it back on before anything bad happened....
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Old 11-27-2016, 02:46 PM   #5
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I figured that out by taking it out and reading "DANGER do not remove" molded into the plastic. I got it back on before anything bad happened....
Haha....I found that piece of plastic too. The only way you can read it is to have removed it in the first place. Like you, I was able to put it back in to position, although I believe it took several attempts and working in a very small, contorted space.
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Old 11-28-2016, 03:50 PM   #6
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Hi, had the same problem last year. It's calcium/minerals build up more than likely from the "water heater". Yes, the water heater! These deposits are common and usually only found on the hot water side of fixtures.

The reason it may be coming from there is that at least in my case, the hot and cold water bypass was left open from when I bought the MH. This allows the hot water to enter into the cold water side and clog any of your fixtures, including your toilet. This problem can also cause less than real hot water because it allows cold to intermix with hot although you think you are opening the hot water side only. This can be a weird one to diagnose if it's the same problem I had and finally "thought through it" and checked all my hot/cold valves. Bingo! the valve between hot/cold presumably to be used for winterizing was open, which we don't use often in S. Ariz. Hope this helps...jerry

p.s. - BTW...since then I have placed a filter on the output of the water heater to trap any debris that comes from the water heater/anode rod before it gets into the system. Of course closing the bypass takes care of most of the issue.
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Old 11-28-2016, 04:13 PM   #7
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The white calcium deposits can also get into the cold water line by opening the cold water low point drain anf both hot and cold faucets. This allows water to back flow from the water heater into the cold water line where it stays until next use then it is pushed along with the water to the remove locations ( toilet, shower etc).
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Old 11-28-2016, 05:39 PM   #8
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Took off water hose and blew out the filter where water enters the valve assembly with canned air normally used to clean keyboards. Try to cover with grocery bag to catch debris.
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Old 11-28-2016, 06:11 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Reyco50 View Post
Hi, had the same problem last year. It's calcium/minerals build up more than likely from the "water heater". Yes, the water heater! These deposits are common and usually only found on the hot water side of fixtures.
This is the main reason I drain my water heater between uses and flush it out real good before I put it back in service. I'm always worried something will get plugged up.
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Old 11-28-2016, 06:21 PM   #10
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A good idea to purchase a Camco clean out wand and glush out the bottom of the heater every fall...

The anode rod collects in the bottom as it gets used up.
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Old 11-28-2016, 06:34 PM   #11
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Grey/white pasty stuff

The lack of water to flush the toilet is caused by the deteriorating anode rod in the water heater. This grey/white pasty stuff gets caught in the small flush valve after it gets into the cold water line at the heater.
I did two mods to alleviate any future occurrence. I wrapped the new anode rod with a womens "knee-hi" nylon sock, trimmed in length and pulled tight over it and secured with a small piece of stainless steel wire immediately behind the threaded head. This should contain the sediment from the rod as it corrodes (its purpose). In case it doesn't, number two was to add a small water filter cartridge between the water line and the entry to the flush valve. Rate of water flow at the toilet is far less than some other faucets so the small filter does not seriously restrict flow.
All other faucets have larger openings that can be easily cleaned out at their ends. No clogs will occur in the actual valves.
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Old 11-28-2016, 07:51 PM   #12
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Had this same problem one time. When I remove the water line from the toilet flush valve, found sediment had clogged the filter screen. It was a pain in the butt to clean because of the position of the toilet. The sentiment look like it was from the anode rod. Once this was clean I had no further issues.
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Old 11-28-2016, 07:57 PM   #13
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Best way to fix a broken toilet ,buy a new flush valve . Before i installed it and after I spent the money the toilet started working fine again.
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:20 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by DUBLBZ View Post
The lack of water to flush the toilet is caused by the deteriorating anode rod in the water heater. This grey/white pasty stuff gets caught in the small flush valve after it gets into the cold water line at the heater.
I did two mods to alleviate any future occurrence. I wrapped the new anode rod with a womens "knee-hi" nylon sock, trimmed in length and pulled tight over it and secured with a small piece of stainless steel wire immediately behind the threaded head. This should contain the sediment from the rod as it corrodes (its purpose). In case it doesn't, number two was to add a small water filter cartridge between the water line and the entry to the flush valve. Rate of water flow at the toilet is far less than some other faucets so the small filter does not seriously restrict flow.
All other faucets have larger openings that can be easily cleaned out at their ends. No clogs will occur in the actual valves.
Great idea, going to do that myself.
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