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Old 01-02-2016, 09:07 PM   #1
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One more question

I think I understand winterizing.

I am considering winterizing my RV for a few days. We live in it full time and there are two 8 to 14 degree nights ahead.

If I bypass my hot water heater, since it is located inside (where it is warm), is it necessary to drain it (take the anode out and all that)?

Keep in mind we'll be here and the inside will be warm.

Thanks!
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:12 PM   #2
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If you keep the water in the heater and on everything should be fine. Unless you lose power or run out of propane.
Why empty it ?


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Old 01-02-2016, 09:13 PM   #3
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Think it's fine if it's inside. usually not the case.
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:27 PM   #4
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Maybe I'm not looking at my water heater. Big white foam enclosed tank under my sink?
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Maybe I'm not looking at my water heater. Big white foam enclosed tank under my sink?

Water heater


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Old 01-02-2016, 09:29 PM   #6
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Also, now I'm confused. My manual pretty much says drain fresh tank then put antifreeze in it. Then turn on water pump to pump it through out. I've seen mentioned that you should suck in the antifreeze from outside the fresh line? I'm so confused. Can I just drain the fresh tank and do it from there or not?
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:34 PM   #7
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Also, now I'm confused. My manual pretty much says drain fresh tank then put antifreeze in it. Then turn on water pump to pump it through out. I've seen mentioned that you should suck in the antifreeze from outside the fresh line? I'm so confused. Can I just drain the fresh tank and do it from there or not?

You would need a lot more antifreeze. My trailer has a hose like your taking about and I use a 1.5 gallons to treat all my pipes and drains.


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Old 01-02-2016, 09:39 PM   #8
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Since forest river evidently gives a generic manual, how do I get instructions for my model?
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:44 PM   #9
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You should have a winterizing valve just before the water pump. (if not I would add one easy and about $20). The valve will either draw water from the FW tank or a hose in a antifreeze jug. You bypass the water heater then run the water pump and open each faucet until pink stuff comes out. Don't forget the outside shower and the low point drains. Never put antifreeze in the FW tank, not only will you need many gallons of antifreeze but it is next to impossible to get all antifreeze out. Drain FW tank and leave drain open. a little water in bottom of FW tank will not hurt if drain open.
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:47 PM   #10
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All RVs are about the same, YouTube has a bunch of great videos on how to winterize.

If you winterize you will not have water to anything, toilet, shower and sinks. You need to drain all your tanks grey, Black , fresh and Hot water.


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Old 01-02-2016, 10:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Since forest river evidently gives a generic manual, how do I get instructions for my model?

It doesn't exist. Unfortunately, you get to learn by doing.

Do you have any winterizing valves? I have one that changes my water pump from drawing in from the freshwater tank to an external hose connection. I change it to the external connection and put a piece of hose into antifreeze.
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Old 01-02-2016, 10:23 PM   #12
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Regarding your water heater, although you don't have to empty it if you'll be keeping the tank warm, you should be draining and cleaning it periodically so this might be an ideal time to do that. You'll need one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-11691-Wa...ds=Camco+11691

If you have a Suburban WH, you'll need to check the anode periodically, too.
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Old 01-02-2016, 11:52 PM   #13
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never mind!
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Old 01-03-2016, 02:04 AM   #14
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I am considering winterizing my RV for a few days. We live in it full time and there are two 8 to 14 degree nights ahead.
Unnecessary, especially if you're gonna be residing in the RV and heating it. Your fresh water supply may require some consideration but unless the daytime temps are consistently well below freezing, you should be fine.
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Old 01-03-2016, 02:55 PM   #15
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Thanks for all the thoughts.
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