Plugs and Electric Water Heater

[UNIT6AUBURN]

I have some plugs in my 2005 Surveyor tha keep tripping the breaker. Wouldn't run a coffee pot or a small space heater or a portable dvd player. They are on a 15 amp breaker. Is that to small or can I go to a 20 amp.also I can't find the switch for my water heater. There is a gas and electric button under the sink with a light between them.Is this it? The water heater is not working period. The element might be bad. I have a 2005 surveyor SV235RS

[gettmad]

If you're running the unit heater and another load like a coffee pot at the same time the 15amp breaker would certainly trip. Not sure if this would be the situation you're talking about. The unit heater alone probably draws 13 amps. As far as the water heater, the switch you're talking about is for turning on the gas part of the heater. First you'll have to make sure the water fills the tank on the heater. To do this you have to turn the hot water taps on in the kitchen and bathroom. You'll hear the air purge from the lines when you do this. When the taps run steady water you should be good. If you have failed to do this, before you turned on the switch you have certainly burnt the element out on your heater. There is also a switch outside in the water heater enclosure for it to operate on electric. You can operate the heater on either or both. It will be on the left side partially hidden so look carefully.

[milzat]

Originally Posted by gettmad

There is also a switch outside in the water heater enclosure for it to operate on electric. You can operate the heater on either or both. It will be on the left side partially hidden so look carefully.

Below is the outside switch gettmad is referring to.



DO NOT install a larger breaker than that installed at the factory. The wiring in that circuit will not handle it.

[UNIT6AUBURN]

Mine doesnt have that switch. what is the anode rod? I have a hole I thought it was a drain plug.

[milzat]

Originally Posted by UNIT6AUBURN

Mine doesnt have that switch

If it's a Suburban brand and doesn't have that switch, it won't have the Electric Heat option.

Could it be possible it's an Atwood water heater?

[Wolfgang]

The anode is a plug with a sacrificial zinc piece on it. It corrodes so rest of system doesn't - something to do with electrolosis. It should be replaced every year or so as it is not expensive. Make sure you let pressure out of system or you'll get wet (I know). My guess is 90% of heaters don't have the electric power option as it is costly option.

[KyDan]

Look in the outside access panel to your water heater.
The same place that "switch" might have been if you had one and the place where
you'll need to put a drain plug or anode rod/drain plug.
On one side of that area there should be a sticker with all kinds of
information on it.
It will likely tell you if you have a suburban or atwood water heater and
it will have a model number.
If you provide us with the maker and model number we can provide you
with correct information instead of guessing.

[UNIT6AUBURN]

I'll check when I get home.Thanks

[UNIT6AUBURN]

It is a Atwood water heater model# G-C6AA-10E

[UNIT6AUBURN]

##

[KyDan]

According to the Atwood owners manual found here
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/media/55...2011.29.07.pdf

You have an electronic ignition gas fired water heater with electric heat option.
There apparently is no "hidden" switch for the electric heat on your Atwood.
(Suburban water heaters have this hidden switch found behind the outside access
door).

You should have a dual switch panel somewhere in your trailer.
It will probably look something like the picture of a "dual switch" found on page 7
of the manual noted above.
The owners manual also shows a single switch with another light beside it.
You could have either configuration.
If you have dual switches one is for gas and the other is for electric.
If you have a single switch, apparently it turns on both types of heat at once??
That doesn't sound right.
Read the manual and maybe someone will answer who has your exact setup.
[I hate it when they print a manual that covers all the different options. It's up to
you to try and figure out which part of the manual applies to your unit!!]

If it is functioning correctly, you can have gas or electric or both at once to heat
your water.
Most of us use the gas only if we are in a hurry and use the electric heat to save
the LP gas other times.
Also the electric heat is nearly silent while the gas can be a bit noisy in the middle
of the night.

Hope this help!

[UNIT6AUBURN]

Thanks.

That is the dual switch I have on the inside. Now if I can figure out why it wont heat water. I guess I will check the element first since the switch was turned on.and the burner on the gas wont stay lit. We just bought the camper last week, it has been sitting up unused for almost 2 years.
I am very thankful for this website!!

[KyDan]

Read the manual I sent a link for.
It says something about how to reset the unit if it fails to light.
If it's lighting and then going out it could be as simple as the thermocouple
being slightly out of place or it might need a new one.
They are simple to change and not at all expensive.
Parts can be found online or at your local dealer.

Remove one wire from the electric element.
Check resistance across the 2 screws on the element.
It should be very low, around 20 ohms or less.
If you get high resistance in the K ohms or more, it's bad.
Again, they are fairly cheap.
I know because I just changed mine yesterday but it's a Suburban brand.

Let us know what you find and maybe we can help you further.
Good luck!
KyDan
Louisville, KY good ole USA

[UNIT6AUBURN]

One more question. My truck is a 1999 GMC Sierra Classic. Someone told me it would pull(breath)better with dual exhaust . Is this true?

[KyDan]

Sorry I can't help you there.

That question is much better answered in the
Towing or Towd
forum with a proper subject.

Good luck!!
KyDan