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Old 07-20-2016, 09:10 AM   #11
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Thanks for your input.

The faucets of both showers are closed so this is not the cause. The problem occurs with all hot taps.

There is a little bit of water leaking at valve#1 (cold inlet). From comments seen here I think it is 99% sure the valve is broken, in other words when I turn the handle nothing happens inside and the valve remains closed.

I will make a post once the problem is solved.

My best regards,

Ray
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:18 AM   #12
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To elind:
Yes the cold inlet valve stops after 1/4 turn.

As you suggested, I closed valved #2 and #3, opend #1 and pulled the relief valve (pump was on) nothing came out of the relief valve. Looks again that valve #1 is broken (inside does not follow outside handle).
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:23 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlevesque View Post
Thanks for your input.

The faucets of both showers are closed so this is not the cause. The problem occurs with all hot taps.

There is a little bit of water leaking at valve#1 (cold inlet). From comments seen here I think it is 99% sure the valve is broken, in other words when I turn the handle nothing happens inside and the valve remains closed.

I will make a post once the problem is solved.

My best regards,

Ray
Ray, if you want to verify this before going to all the trouble of removing/replacing the cold water inlet valve...here is how I might do it.

Close the crossover valve, so no cold water can backfeed the tank. You can close the top hot water outlet valve too, but it's not totally necessary for our test purposes.

If you are currently plugged into a form of 120 volt shore power, Make sure your electric heating element switch (if equipped) on the face of the water heater is off. it's explained here in case you aren't familiar with it.

Suburban's electric switch and much more

Now remove your anode rod to drain the tank. Leave the anode rod out. Once drained (and with the anode rod still removed), then either connect to city water or your fresh water tank via your pump and see if water starts shooting out the anode rod hole.

If not, change the position of the cold water inlet handle and see if there is a change, and water starts coming out the anode rod hole. If no again, then you know that water is not coming into the tank, and that cold water inlet valve is most likely bad.

EDIT: it looks like we were both typing and posting at the same time. Your post above this confirms the same as mine would. You might can change the cold water inlet valve position both ways and test...just to be sure.
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:42 AM   #14
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Quick question. Ray, have you ever messed with pex lines/fittings before like your water heater has?

The reason I ask, is it takes special tools to install PEX line clamps. You can easily just use shark bite type fittings/valves that most all the big box stores carry, so you won't need special tools.

SharkBite Push-To-Connect Fittings - How to Install PEX Tubing, Copper Tubing, and CPVC Tubing - SharkBite
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:06 AM   #15
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wmtire, I think the test with the rod out is similar to the test using the relief valve.

The forum was very useful in confirming that I was not making a stupid mistake.

Given that I do not want to try to fix the problem myself and the fact that we booked a camp ground starting Monday, I phone two places and got an appointment with a repair shop for 1:30 today.

I will send a post when I am back from the repair shop.

Thanks,

Ray
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:07 AM   #16
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Thanks for the head's up msg.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:54 AM   #17
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The valves you have are crap. I replaced 2 of them in my Roo 19. Suggest you replace yours.
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Old 07-20-2016, 03:53 PM   #18
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rockfordroo: you said 'The valves you have are crap.'

I hope Forest River is listening... (these valves were in place when we bought the brand new Lexington in 2011).

Well this will not be a surprise but once the repair shop cut loose the section of the line containing the suspect valve, we could visually verify that turning the handle of the valve had *no* effect on the inside portion. So the line remained close no matter what.

He replaced the valve with one in metal (not in plastic) and things now work as they should.
I was impressed by the reactivity of the forum. I am going to be lurking around here more often...

Many thanks to all,

Regards,

Ray
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Old 07-21-2016, 07:59 AM   #19
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I had a similar problem and it turned out that the backflow preventer was faulty. If I remember it was installed where the hot water exits the tank.
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