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Old 11-25-2015, 05:22 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Terrib972 View Post
Thanks for all your responses. I really do appreciate it.

So this morning I have verified that I have the valve in the correct position by pouring antifreeze through a funnel into the antifreeze inlet and it filled the pump's filter screen reservoir. Below is pic of my valve. Line going up goes to AF inlet and the one going left goes to FW tank. I again looked for a second valve on the FW line and didn't find one so I'm assuming this valve closes it off. I capped my low water drains which I hadn't done before. And I filled the hose/inlet line with antifreeze, put my finger over the end and placed in a bucket of antifreeze. Still won't pump the AF in. I had one faucet (cold water side) open while trying this. I did let it run a short time with the faucet closed but I didn't think you were supposed to run a pump without liquid so I didn't let it run long.

Again, the pump seems quieter than other campers we owned so at this point I think there's something wrong with the pump itself. Any other thoughts?

Sounds like your sucking air . pump will be quite sounding and you will get know where . check the filter for tightness along with other down stream fittings

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Old 11-25-2015, 05:29 PM   #32
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Thanks Ford Idaho, for showing the pic to Terri of the Relief Valve. Terri, I take the anode out of the heater to clean it in 50/50 vinegar/water. We could just put it back in once it's cleaned, but we decided that when we get ready to de-winterize, we can quickly hose-flush the tank through that anode port, then replace the anode at that time. I guess it has turned into one of our idiosyncrasies, but it's easy to check on the status of the anode and cleanliness of the water heater.
ANYWAY -- back to the topic of pulling antifreeze....when we have the hose in the antifreeze container and the pump is on, (sorry I forgot to mention) we make sure that none of the faucets are on, and YES, the water heater SHOULD be isolated, but in our case, we need to make sure it really is via as I previously posted. The pump SHOULD prime the line, but it might help to open/close a line until it does. I think someone already mentioned the water filter container....with the filter out, the container must be tightly in place as well. If all of the lines are primed and the faucets are OFF, the pump should have stopped running too. At that point, we turn on, one at a time, each faucet, shower and supply line to bleed it until antifreeze pours through.
I hope this really clarifies and helps.
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Old 11-25-2015, 05:33 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Ford Idaho View Post

I thought the water heater was out of the picture once it has been bypassed.
It is.
As long as the bypass valves are in good working order and are oriented in the correct positions for bypassing, the rest of the plumbing system will never know the water tank exists.
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:28 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
It is.
As long as the bypass valves are in good working order and are oriented in the correct positions for bypassing, the rest of the plumbing system will never know the water tank exists.
As I suspected, when I winterized the lite I left the Atwood's drain plug out to check for A/F in the tank incase something went south.

Everything worked as it should have(sheer dumb luck) I reinstalled the plug to keep bugs out.

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Old 11-25-2015, 07:18 PM   #35
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Exactly, the pump works because it is making a "more quiet" sound, being it is not under load of moving water. Just try what I suggested. It will force water to the pump, prime it, and if that is the problem, you should be back in business. I understand others have their belief on pumps are self priming, but following the simple procudure suggested might get you back on track. Just sayin'
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Old 11-26-2015, 09:27 AM   #36
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I had the same issue - thought all my valves were turned the correct direction - except one it was the one nearest the pump I turned it the opposite direction of what I thought and it started to suck up the pink stuff.
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:06 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by RingoRoy15 View Post
What I had to write down as a reminder on my Columbus 5th wheel is: After turning bypass valves and draining the HW Heater, make sure the HW Heater is completely plugged and air tight for purposes of pumping antifreeze! The pump will not pull antifreeze if, for example, the pressure release valve on the Water Heater is open or, there is no airtight plug where the Anode port is located. (When I winterize, I take out the Anode and use a 3/4" pvc plug)
Hope this helps!

Sorry, but this makes zero sense. The HWH is on the discharge side of the pump. If you've properly bypassed the HWH, then the pressure relief valve and anode/drain hole are isolated from the rest of the plumbing and their position doesn't matter. If you haven't properly bypassed the HWH, then the pressure relief valve or anode/drain plug being open is no different than having a faucet open.

The only thing that will prevent the pump from pumping (assuming the pump itself isn't FUBAR and it is running) is either 1) the pump is sucking air somewhere or 2) the pump suction is isolated from the suction source. Both issues are on the suction side of the pump.
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Old 11-27-2015, 07:06 PM   #38
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I just wanted to say thank you to everyone that responded. I still need to try Still Kickin's suggestion but with the rain we're having for days, it will be a bit before I can get someone here to help me. I have gotten an adapter to use the compressed air method to winterize and if I don't get the pump working before the freeze, I'll just blow out the lines, pour in the antifreeze and disconnect the lines to the pump and the toilet valve to try to make sure any remaining water flows out. Hopefully that will be enough.

Thank you all again for your time and assistance!
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:12 PM   #39
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Pump won't pull antifreeze

I don't think anyone has mentioned putting some water back in the FW tank, flipping the valve, open a faucet, and see if the pump still works. If it does, flip the valve again to winterize and open a faucet. (In fact you could leave that same faucet open and just switch the valve over.) If the pump runs but doesn't pull antifreeze in the winterize mode, then the problem lies between the pump and the antifreeze draw tube and probably excluding the common line to the pump that is used for both modes, i.e., a hole, crack, loose hose connector or bad (or partially open) valve.

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Old 11-29-2015, 01:51 PM   #40
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It's a long thread and a lot to read, but yeah I already tried the fresh water tank. Doesn't pull from there either. The last I turned it on before all this was when I tested right after buying it last March. I usually camp in campgrounds with water hookups so haven't needed it!

Still waiting for it to quit raining to do anything else...

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antifreeze, pump, problem

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