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Old 10-20-2018, 08:09 AM   #1
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Question regarding anode rod

Hi all,
I have a 2001 Rockwood Premiere model # 2302 pop up and I believe it has a Suburban ( no labels or other distinguishing markings ) water heater and after pulling the old rod, which was shot and draining the system and getting ready to winterize, I want to put a new rod in to replace the old worn out one. My issue is, I don't know which one I should purchase as I have no owner manuals ( bought 2nd hand, previous owner misplaced ) The old rod is 8 1/2" long by I an assuming 3/4". I have called a couple of dealers in my area and they say I need a model number in order to get the correct one .. Can anyone provide any assistance in getting the right rod? TIA
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:42 AM   #2
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No labels on the inside of the outer hatch cover?
It's most likely this one which pretty much fits them all....


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suburban-23...S!-1:rk:2:pf:0
That's the magnesium rod which I prefer over aluminum and it's a pretty good price as well....

I advise putting teflon tape on the threads to keep it from seizing in there. Good luck!

Happy Trails!!
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Old 10-20-2018, 01:36 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
No labels on the inside of the outer hatch cover?
It's most likely this one which pretty much fits them all....


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suburban-23...S!-1:rk:2:pf:0
That's the magnesium rod which I prefer over aluminum and it's a pretty good price as well....

I advise putting teflon tape on the threads to keep it from seizing in there. Good luck!

Happy Trails!!

All the labels, on the inside of the door and on the unit itself have been wiped clean of print.. black except or a word here and there. Thanks for the quick answer, ordered one.. and will most definitely use teflon on the threads.
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Old 10-20-2018, 03:36 PM   #4
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Smile follow up anode rod ?

Forestlaker, Once you have found a replacement anode rod, will you be putting it in the WH for the winter or leaving it out until spring? Also, is there an oil of some kind that is safe but still keeps the rust at bay?
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Old 10-20-2018, 04:07 PM   #5
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Forestlaker, Once you have found a replacement anode rod, will you be putting it in the WH for the winter or leaving it out until spring? Also, is there an oil of some kind that is safe but still keeps the rust at bay?

Yes, I will be reinstalling the rod before I put her up for the winter. I've used a small wire brush to clean the threads and rinsed them using a mustard bottle with the squirt cap making sure to get any/all rust out of them before attempting to screw in the new rod. I'll only wrap half the threads on the new rod with teflon tape and put a small dab of marine grease on the exposed threads to help lubricate and prevent any future rusting ( I hope ). As this is my first ( bought used, former tenter for many years ) pop up and first anode replacement I've read quite a few threads on the subject. I haven't come across any describing the use of a non toxic oil but imagine using a food safe mineral oil ( from a drug store ) would work
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Old 10-20-2018, 04:28 PM   #6
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If you cleaned the threads like you’ve described, then you put on the Teflon tape on the part that threads in, and put grease on the exposed threads, you’re good to go for reinstalling the anode. You don’t need any type of oil.
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Old 10-20-2018, 05:07 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by davidgle View Post
Forestlaker, Once you have found a replacement anode rod, will you be putting it in the WH for the winter or leaving it out until spring? Also, is there an oil of some kind that is safe but still keeps the rust at bay?
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If you cleaned the threads like you’ve described, then you put on the Teflon tape on the part that threads in, and put grease on the exposed threads, you’re good to go for reinstalling the anode. You don’t need any type of oil.
Only use silicone plumber grease. It is Waterproof and non-hazardous. It is good -40 to 400F.
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:44 PM   #8
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One more question

So, you are not afraid of a mold issue in the WH. I think it might take mine some time to dry out? Appreciate the tip on the plumbers silicone
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Old 10-20-2018, 09:10 PM   #9
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Yes, I will be reinstalling the rod before I put her up for the winter. I've used a small wire brush to clean the threads and rinsed them using a mustard bottle with the squirt cap making sure to get any/all rust out of them before attempting to screw in the new rod. I'll only wrap half the threads on the new rod with teflon tape and put a small dab of marine grease on the exposed threads to help lubricate and prevent any future rusting ( I hope ). As this is my first ( bought used, former tenter for many years ) pop up and first anode replacement I've read quite a few threads on the subject. I haven't come across any describing the use of a non toxic oil but imagine using a food safe mineral oil ( from a drug store ) would work
My 2 cents. While you are at it you may want to consider getting a rv water heater flush nozzle and give it a good rinsing before you put the new anode in. Get all the gunk and Calcium out, it will add years to your WH.
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Old 10-21-2018, 12:50 PM   #10
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There is an anode rod with tap available- I've never used one, does anyone have experience with such an item?

Photo at this link:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31QcFzdQs4L.jpg

Cheers


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Old 10-21-2018, 01:02 PM   #11
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We don't recommend it. You need to flush out the gunk and you have to remove the anode to do that.
A friend bought a used trailer with one of those. When I talked him into removing it he got a double handful of lime and sand out of it.
Plus you have to remove the anode to inspect it.
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Old 10-21-2018, 02:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amblt View Post
There is an anode rod with tap available- I've never used one, does anyone have experience with such an item?

Photo at this link:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31QcFzdQs4L.jpg

Cheers


Another thing to go wrong, just remove it and drain it. Oh yes, and flush it out good.
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Old 10-21-2018, 02:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amblt View Post
There is an anode rod with tap available- I've never used one, does anyone have experience with such an item?

Photo at this link:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31QcFzdQs4L.jpg

Cheers




They are only good for draining the WH, not so much flushing it out.
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Old 10-21-2018, 03:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amblt View Post
There is an anode rod with tap available- I've never used one, does anyone have experience with such an item?

Photo at this link:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31QcFzdQs4L.jpg

Cheers
I use one and it is very adequate. Blast the heck out of interior til it runs clear. It's just a cheap plastic tube with a female hose fitting and a valve. Does the job. Flush at least annually. I changed mine when the coach was 15-16 months old. It was toast. Then flushed it in spring about 8 months later and nearly gone, so I do not let it go more than a year at the outside
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Old 10-21-2018, 03:20 PM   #15
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I use one and it is very adequate. Blast the heck out of interior til it runs clear. It's just a cheap plastic tube with a female hose fitting and a valve. Does the job. Flush at least annually. I changed mine when the coach was 15-16 months old. It was toast. Then flushed it in spring about 8 months later and nearly gone, so I do not let it go more than a year at the outside
Oh crap. Serves me right, I hadn't hit the link. I concur looks like a gadget that is unfortunate necessary and a new thing to leak.

I was just talking about the plastic clean out tube. It does the job and that pitcock would serve no purpose.
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Old 10-21-2018, 07:37 PM   #16
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So, you are not afraid of a mold issue in the WH. I think it might take mine some time to dry out? Appreciate the tip on the plumbers silicone
I personally have never had a problem or worried about mold in the water heater, I only remove the anode rod to empty and flush out the WH. I replace the rod with the old one (unless it is worn out) afterwards. I am more concerned about what can crawl in if it was left out.



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Old 10-21-2018, 08:10 PM   #17
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My 2 cents. While you are at it you may want to consider getting a rv water heater flush nozzle and give it a good rinsing before you put the new anode in. Get all the gunk and Calcium out, it will add years to your WH.
Cut a old washing machine supply hose into and stick it into the A ROD hole turn the supply hose Full Open,watch the crud run out! Price=Free and give the other half to another RVer! Youroo! !
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Old 10-21-2018, 09:41 PM   #18
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First off, I live in So Cal.


After each outing, I remove the anode rod, flush heater and leave the anode rod out so heater has a chance to air dry.


I never use teflon tape on my trailer water heater. I only use plumber's dope on the threads. Only a few threads of my anode rod actually make it into the heater and the rest that are exposed are always covered with the plumber's dope so no worries about rust.


Water screw connections in my home (condo) are another story. I use teflon tape and plumber's dope together. Something I learned from a plumber.
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Old 10-22-2018, 11:52 AM   #19
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Oatey Great White pipe dope with teflon.
The best of both worlds. It's a little messier than just teflon tape and either will work.

Some folks worry about the teflon tape inhibiting the electrical connection for the anode to work but I assure you even with teflon tape covering the threads, if you tighten it securely it will conduct enough to save your tank.


Happy Trails!
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