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Old 04-23-2012, 10:12 AM   #11
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Yes, I have the 1 1/16 socket. I'm using a little Black and Decker hand drill called the Swivel. Since the motorhome was barely used last year, I didn't reapply Teflon tape but will.
Dont use a drill to replace the rod,hand tools only! I use a 6 point socket with a 10 inch ext. to start the rod. I also place paper over the mouth of the socket before I place the nut end of the rod in the socket,it keeps the rod tight and level. Easy to start the pipe threads on the a/rod. Youroo!!
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:17 AM   #12
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Dont use a drill to replace the rod,hand tools only! I use a 6 point socket with a 10 inch ext. to start the rod. I also place paper over the mouth of the socket before I place the nut end of the rod in the socket,it keeps the rod tight and level. Easy to start the pipe threads on the a/rod. Youroo!!
Man, you are right! I missed that.
Correct socket and snug only!
It just has to "not leak."
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:46 AM   #13
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OK. I will hand tighten. Thanks.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:23 PM   #14
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OK guys, I am now officially " the tool guy". Everything worked as you said. Thank you so much for all your help. Happy RVing.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:30 PM   #15
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:41 PM   #16
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Set your valves correctly for normal operation; not bypass.

Turn on the water and open the pressure relief valve. Air should start hissing out of the heater as it fills. When water comes out; close the pressure relief valve. Water should stop dripping. (If it leaks after it is reseated, you will need a new valve.)

Open the hot water faucets and let the water run till it is NOT PINK and stops spitting. Then you can turn on the heat.
Just a little note on how I do mine. I open the hot water faucets and let the water run till it is not pink BEFORE setting the valves for normal instead of bypass. This takes less water, and eliminates the possibility of having residual antifreeze in the water heater mixed with the water.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:15 PM   #17
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When you put back your anode try to start the installation by hand. The weight of the anode try to put weight on one side and if you start directly with the socket you risk to install it crosstread.. It is a bit tight with the fingers but do it slowly and the first treads will start properly. I use the pink teflon on the treads instead of the white. The pink is a much better quality than the cheap white one.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:51 PM   #18
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A "LITTLE" of info!

Herk is almost right, but if the relief valve leaks doesn't necessarily mean it is bad.

But if it does leak when you finish your project of reinstalling the zinc rod. Try this.

If the relief valve leaks, turn off your water supply (turn off pump also.)
Open the hot water faucet in the kitchen sink, leave open. Now go to the relief valve, lift up on the leaver to bleed any water off until the water stops running at the relief valve. Snap the valve shut a couple of times
(it is spring loaded). No go back to your kitchen close the hot water faucet side. Turn water pressure back on. Nine times out of if your pressure relief valve weeps water, you do not have a air pocket in the top of the hot water tank. This is a must to prevent the weeping of water at the pressure relief valve.

Good luck
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:14 PM   #19
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X2 on that DaisyBoykin, a small pc of scale could be lodged in the seat. I usually don't turn anything off, just stand to the side and flip the lever a couple of times and it seats.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:22 PM   #20
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Herk,

If you hadn't been so attached to a yoke, you might have done like a Colonel I used to work for and made Maj. General. His favorite saying was, "if a job is worth doing, it's worth over-doing."

Best regards.
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