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04-23-2012, 09:06 PM
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#21
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hob
Herk,
If you hadn't been so attached to a yoke, you might have done like a Colonel I used to work for and made Maj. General. His favorite saying was, "if a job is worth doing, it's worth over-doing."
Best regards.
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We all make choices in life.
All is Karma...
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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04-23-2012, 09:15 PM
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#22
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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There is only two ways to do it. And thats RIGHT or OVER !
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04-23-2012, 09:19 PM
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#23
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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f1100turbo, you are wrong, 3 ways, right, over & scrap it.
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04-23-2012, 09:27 PM
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#24
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunnnc
f1100turbo, you are wrong, 3 ways, right, over & scrap it.
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ok you got me ~!
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04-23-2012, 09:58 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
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Well, at least now I know what size to use on mine. I pulled the anode out before I put the water to the heater when I was de-winterizing to clear everything out. I found out I needed a new anode, so it was a trip to my favorite Camping World to get an anode and something else I needed. I used my teflon tape on the threads before I installed it. I used a crescent wrench and a screw driver...an old crew chief trick. After putting the pressure to it...did an ops check using electric and propane. MOC complied with.
__________________
2009 Palomino Puma 25RS
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller
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04-24-2012, 07:27 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 752
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My own crew chief trick is similar to yours. I use 2 crescent wrenches to install it and it work well.
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04-24-2012, 07:30 AM
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#27
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capucine
My own crew chief trick is similar to yours. I use 2 crescent wrenches to install it and it work well.
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Same here!
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04-24-2012, 08:36 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capucine
My own crew chief trick is similar to yours. I use 2 crescent wrenches to install it and it work well.
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Would have used two but just have one crescent and a Ford wrench....couldn't get the Ford Wrench in that hole without tearing something up.
__________________
2009 Palomino Puma 25RS
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller
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04-25-2012, 07:53 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
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Thanks Lou,
I might have known that you would have a photo of one. I was going to have to take a photo of mine. I used to have two of them, gave one away. Very useful tool in different situations.
__________________
2009 Palomino Puma 25RS
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller
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04-25-2012, 08:20 AM
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#30
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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The monkey wrench is an adjustable wrench, a later American development of eighteenth century English coach wrenches. It was popular in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries but is now used only for heavier tasks, having been mostly replaced by the lighter and sleeker shifting adjustable. The term monkey wrench is also used colloquially ( and mistakenly) to refer to the pipe wrench, owing to their broadly similar shapes.
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/to...FQfonAodNXE3Hw
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04-25-2012, 11:13 AM
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#31
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windrider
Wow, can't believe we went from installing an anode rod to setting saw teeth, and all the same thread. Maybe somebody needs to start a thread with old tools, and what they are
Could title it: Name this tool. First prize could be a free year on Forrest River Forums.
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renewable on the second year tho to right ?
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04-25-2012, 11:20 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Picton
Posts: 714
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Use your fingers to get the anode rod started - do not use your little drill.
If it screws in nicely you have it right.
Good luck.
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Denis & Diane
* Happy Campers *
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04-25-2012, 11:24 AM
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#33
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Bedford, IN
Posts: 41
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One thing I always do before the anode rod is replaced is to clean the pipe threads with a pipe tap. A cheap way is to buy a pipe nipple (longer is better) the same size and grind two or three grooves across the threads. If you want to get fancy put a tee on oppisite end and use as a handle. The grinds will give the rust and or metal a place to go while you clean the threads. It shouldn't take a lot of effort to clean the threads and this helps the pipe tape seal.
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04-26-2012, 12:23 PM
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#34
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(Kim)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Windsor, Ontario
Posts: 595
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I am having trouble getting the anode in completely.
When I look in the heater at the threads, it looked like there was that white crusty stuff (same as is on the anode itself) on the last 2/3 of the threads. I am thinking that the anode was not in 100% when we got the TT and some got on the threading.
I wire brushed and toothbrushed the threads, and they look pretty clean but the anode still will not go in totally (stops at 1/3-1/2 way), I have also tried to angle it up but that does not work either; I have muttered several bad words under my breath, so I have now turned to you guys for help.
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2010 Dodge Ram 1500
2012 Rockwood 2306
Kim
DH (Alan), DD (Madison) and Zoey the lab,
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04-26-2012, 12:30 PM
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#35
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 33
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Did you put tape on the end of the anode's threads? Also, mine doesn't go all the way in and isn't leaking. I was told at the dealer that only about 1/3 of the thread goes in. Good luck.
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04-26-2012, 12:35 PM
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#36
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(Kim)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Windsor, Ontario
Posts: 595
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Ahh, well then that explains it!! Mine goes in hand tight about 1/3 of the way, then stops. Problem is that I did not take the anode out, so I did not have the chance to see how much was threaded, and never even thought to look at it during the countless times I opened the water heater door!
Yes, I put tape on it
And thank you!!
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2010 Dodge Ram 1500
2012 Rockwood 2306
Kim
DH (Alan), DD (Madison) and Zoey the lab,
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04-26-2012, 12:37 PM
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#37
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2007 WildCat 32QBBS
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,349
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The thread is a tapered pipe thread (NPT). As it goes in it gets tighter to eliminate leaks. about 3-5 threads in is the norm. It only needs to be tight enough to not leak, so don't over-tighten it or you'll have a bad time removing it next time.
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*Current: 2005 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.0 diesel 4x4*
*Retired: 1987 F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.9 turbo diesel
2007 Forest River WildCat 32QBBS
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04-26-2012, 12:42 PM
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#38
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(Kim)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Windsor, Ontario
Posts: 595
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If I only knew that 30 minutes and 100 swear words ago.................
__________________
2010 Dodge Ram 1500
2012 Rockwood 2306
Kim
DH (Alan), DD (Madison) and Zoey the lab,
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04-26-2012, 01:21 PM
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#39
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 33
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Always good to vent...lol
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05-02-2012, 09:16 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Napa Valley, CA
Posts: 513
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I also was surprised by the amount of rust on the anode female thread when I received my brand new TT. There was also some rust below the anode and alot of that crusty white stuff (water mineral deposits?). It looked to me like they had recycled the water heater from another TT or it had been sitting around for a long time outdoors prior to install!
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