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Old 04-23-2012, 09:06 PM   #21
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Herk,

If you hadn't been so attached to a yoke, you might have done like a Colonel I used to work for and made Maj. General. His favorite saying was, "if a job is worth doing, it's worth over-doing."

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We all make choices in life.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:15 PM   #22
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There is only two ways to do it. And thats RIGHT or OVER !
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:19 PM   #23
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f1100turbo, you are wrong, 3 ways, right, over & scrap it.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:27 PM   #24
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f1100turbo, you are wrong, 3 ways, right, over & scrap it.
ok you got me ~!
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:58 PM   #25
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Well, at least now I know what size to use on mine. I pulled the anode out before I put the water to the heater when I was de-winterizing to clear everything out. I found out I needed a new anode, so it was a trip to my favorite Camping World to get an anode and something else I needed. I used my teflon tape on the threads before I installed it. I used a crescent wrench and a screw driver...an old crew chief trick. After putting the pressure to it...did an ops check using electric and propane. MOC complied with.
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:27 AM   #26
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My own crew chief trick is similar to yours. I use 2 crescent wrenches to install it and it work well.
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:30 AM   #27
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My own crew chief trick is similar to yours. I use 2 crescent wrenches to install it and it work well.
Same here!
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:36 AM   #28
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My own crew chief trick is similar to yours. I use 2 crescent wrenches to install it and it work well.

Would have used two but just have one crescent and a Ford wrench....couldn't get the Ford Wrench in that hole without tearing something up.
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:53 AM   #29
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Thanks Lou,

I might have known that you would have a photo of one. I was going to have to take a photo of mine. I used to have two of them, gave one away. Very useful tool in different situations.
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:20 AM   #30
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The monkey wrench is an adjustable wrench, a later American development of eighteenth century English coach wrenches. It was popular in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries but is now used only for heavier tasks, having been mostly replaced by the lighter and sleeker shifting adjustable. The term monkey wrench is also used colloquially (and mistakenly) to refer to the pipe wrench, owing to their broadly similar shapes.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/to...FQfonAodNXE3Hw
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:13 AM   #31
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Wow, can't believe we went from installing an anode rod to setting saw teeth, and all the same thread. Maybe somebody needs to start a thread with old tools, and what they are

Could title it: Name this tool. First prize could be a free year on Forrest River Forums.


renewable on the second year tho to right ?
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:20 AM   #32
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Use your fingers to get the anode rod started - do not use your little drill.

If it screws in nicely you have it right.

Good luck.
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:24 AM   #33
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One thing I always do before the anode rod is replaced is to clean the pipe threads with a pipe tap. A cheap way is to buy a pipe nipple (longer is better) the same size and grind two or three grooves across the threads. If you want to get fancy put a tee on oppisite end and use as a handle. The grinds will give the rust and or metal a place to go while you clean the threads. It shouldn't take a lot of effort to clean the threads and this helps the pipe tape seal.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:23 PM   #34
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I am having trouble getting the anode in completely.
When I look in the heater at the threads, it looked like there was that white crusty stuff (same as is on the anode itself) on the last 2/3 of the threads. I am thinking that the anode was not in 100% when we got the TT and some got on the threading.
I wire brushed and toothbrushed the threads, and they look pretty clean but the anode still will not go in totally (stops at 1/3-1/2 way), I have also tried to angle it up but that does not work either; I have muttered several bad words under my breath, so I have now turned to you guys for help.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:30 PM   #35
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Did you put tape on the end of the anode's threads? Also, mine doesn't go all the way in and isn't leaking. I was told at the dealer that only about 1/3 of the thread goes in. Good luck.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:35 PM   #36
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Ahh, well then that explains it!! Mine goes in hand tight about 1/3 of the way, then stops. Problem is that I did not take the anode out, so I did not have the chance to see how much was threaded, and never even thought to look at it during the countless times I opened the water heater door!
Yes, I put tape on it

And thank you!!
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:37 PM   #37
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The thread is a tapered pipe thread (NPT). As it goes in it gets tighter to eliminate leaks. about 3-5 threads in is the norm. It only needs to be tight enough to not leak, so don't over-tighten it or you'll have a bad time removing it next time.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:42 PM   #38
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If I only knew that 30 minutes and 100 swear words ago.................
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:21 PM   #39
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Always good to vent...lol
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:16 AM   #40
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I also was surprised by the amount of rust on the anode female thread when I received my brand new TT. There was also some rust below the anode and alot of that crusty white stuff (water mineral deposits?). It looked to me like they had recycled the water heater from another TT or it had been sitting around for a long time outdoors prior to install!
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