Replacing Pump from 40psi to 70psi

[proride]

The original pump on my trailer is a 3gpm, 40psi pump, which is now broken. I ordered the same part number at Amazon but they sent me a 3gpm, 70psi model. (both are same manufacturer).

So I asked for a replacement as I figured a 70psi unit would be too much pressure, and they sent me the same 70psi model.

So my question is, would 70psi cause leaks or mess up the fragile plumbing as compared to the original 40ps1 pump? The new pump looks more heavy duty, so just wondering before I send it back and this time just get my money back.

I have a Coachman Clipper 17FQ TT.

Thanks

[timfromma]

I wouldn't use it.

[king18471]

Camco sells several water pressure regulators to reduce city water pressure down to 40-50 PSI. Seems like this is the standard "safe operating pressure" for RV plumbing. To play it safe I'd stay in that range for your system.

[tom39]

Originally Posted by proride

The original pump on my trailer is a 3gpm, 40psi pump, which is now broken. I ordered the same part number at Amazon but they sent me a 3gpm, 70psi model. (both are same manufacturer).

Who is the manufacturer of the pump and which model pump did you have?

[nomad297]

I would prefer the 70psi pump. 70psi will cause no harm to anything in your system.

Bruce

[KyDan]

I wouldn't use it. Your system can -probably- stand 70 psi but it's definitely
at the upper end. Why risk a blown off fitting and a flooded water damaged
trailer if you don't have to?

Also as other have asked- What is the make and model # of the pump
you have?? Can you give an amazon link?

[Skyliner]

I'd keep the pump but install an adjustable water pressure regulator with a gauge. The fixed regulators reduce flow too much.

RV-Dreams Journal: RV Water Pressure Regulators & Related Matters

[Flybob]

I would not run a 70 PSI pump unregulated. The PEX can certainly handle it, but I would be afraid of some of the non PEX connections ( hose &clamp). Also some of the plastic faucets,might not be happy. My concern would be that all seemed well after installation, but over time a connection might let go when no one was home and you would have a mess.

[proride]

Thanks for all the info. Didn't think about an external pressure regulator. But now I have a new pump for free courtesy of Amazon, as because of the mix ups, they refunded my money and told me to keep the pump.


I still ordered the correct replacement from Amazon, but from a Amazon seller instead of Amazon itself.


The OEM replacement is
https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-PDSI-130.../dp/B00K8D9IN4


The one they sent me twice and told me to keep the second one is
https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-PDS3B-13...s=Artis+Series


The good thing though, is that I don't need to use the trailer, so no big deal on the waiting for the pump. I did go check the pumps out at my local Camping World, but they only had 2 pumps left and both were the same model that were too powerful and about $90 more than you can get the same thing online.

[itat]

I wouldn't want to risk much more than 50 psi. Have them replace it with this one.

https://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-4008-...RMADP756XESDF2

I installed this in my Rockwood and it works great. Actually gives me better pressure than a few campgrounds we go to that have FHU fed from a private well.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by proride

Thanks for all the info. Didn't think about an external pressure regulator. But now I have a new pump for free courtesy of Amazon, as because of the mix ups, they refunded my money and told me to keep the pump.


I still ordered the correct replacement from Amazon, but from a Amazon seller instead of Amazon itself.


The OEM replacement is
https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-PDSI-130.../dp/B00K8D9IN4


The one they sent me twice and told me to keep the second one is
https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-PDS3B-13...s=Artis+Series


The good thing though, is that I don't need to use the trailer, so no big deal on the waiting for the pump. I did go check the pumps out at my local Camping World, but they only had 2 pumps left and both were the same model that were too powerful and about $90 more than you can get the same thing online.

The one you were given is rated at 60 PSI as per the posted link, I would have no issue in installing that.

Most of the faucets have flow/pressure restrictors.



Some people remove them or drill them out.

If you need to use pressure to fill your water tank you might consider using one as a fill/transfer pump.

Something like this.

[proride]

That's the one I was going to order itat, but since it is a 55psi pump, I ordered the original one at 40psi. It did work well enough and plenty of water pressure for my small trailer. Now if it lasts at least couple of years, then that's ok.

[rockfordroo]

These are positive displacement pumps, so they can put out a lot more pressure than 70 psi.

The "pressure" is actually set by the pressure switch that shuts the pump off, not the pump itself.

Look at the pressure switches on the two pumps and see if you can swap them. If you can, put the pressure switch from the old pump onto the new pump and voila! - you'll have a 50 psi pump.

Alternatively, there may be an adjustment on the new pumps pressure switch that would allow you to "dial it down."

[dahagen]

For RV's the Shurflo Revolution is a quieter pump, and cheaper.

[Photo Lab]

The water pressure issue is probably as old as RVs. I'll not make a specific recommendation, however; if you're plumbed with PEX tubing, as all of the newer units I know of, you should have zero problems. This is the same product used for many residential plumbing systems, and running 100 PSIG isn't an issue, if installed properly. Fittings I've used are pretty much all brass, and a few odd stainless. If you install the fittings with the right tool, and clamps (single use, with an ear that is crimped) you will have no problem. The pressure rating shown on the tubing by the way, is for the system, not just the tubing. I would be more concerned about the pressure setting on the water heater T&P relief valve than anything else in the system. You might consider installing a pressure gauge in a convenient place, just for fun. The pressure output from most pumps is controlled by the pressure switch setting, which sometimes has an easily accessed adjustment. The instructions that came with the pump probably gives instructions. Lastly, the higher pressure pump will necessarily have a bigger motor. So, if you go with the 70 PSIG pump, and turn the pressure setting down to 40 or 50, or if you add an external pressure switch (like used on water wells) your motor will be working at a lighter load.

[VinceU]

If you inspect the relief valve on the water heater they are set to open at 125 psi. This is the system set point on nearly every RV. There is no other device installed other than feed hose regulators. You may have seen the WH relief valve "weep" when firing gas for heat source this occurs at 126 psi, if the heater loses its upper air cushion. All components are rated for this duty. Not to say all assembly's will meet the standard.

[mlatter]

Originally Posted by nomad297

I would prefer the 70psi pump. 70psi will cause no harm to anything in your system.

Bruce

X2, I'd love to have 100psi in the trailer.