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Old 07-27-2014, 09:16 PM   #1
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Replacment sewer drain valves

So, after the first trip for the new XLR, its become evident that I need some type of remote operated dump valves for my gray and black tanks. The location of the two valves pretty much requires me to climb under the camper and just about lie down on the ground to release them. Weird engineering, to say the least. So, remote operation appears to be needed. I'm leaning toward electric actuated over cable actuated, but I'm always glad to hear people's opinions. I would need the larger (3"?) valve for the black and the smaller (1.5"?) valve for the gray. Thoughts and suggesations--types, brands, etc. TIA!
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:27 AM   #2
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No one has any opinions on this? I know everyone is getting ready for the trip to Goshen, but c'mon...

Did some more Internet research--looks like the 2 major choices for electric are Valterra and Drainmaster. The Drainmaster looks like a nice setup, and I haven't been able to find a bad word about them so far. All ideas and opinions are welcome...
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:14 PM   #3
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So no one has these installed on their rig? I find that hard to believe. Discussed with my dealer's head service guy yesterday and he didn't think too highly of any of the electric dump valves...but someone here has some more practical experience, I'm sure...
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:29 PM   #4
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Sorry buddy. Can't help you out on this one. Hopefully someone who can help will chime in soon.
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:48 PM   #5
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OK, I'll Bite.

Before I installed a electric drain system (really? ) I's exchange the metal release rod for a longer one.

Edit: OK I went to Drainmaster and took a look - interesting mod. I think I am more interested in their p-trap replacement though
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:56 PM   #6
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Taranwanderer: Here's some advice for you. When I bought my pull trailer it was somewhat as you stated, the handles to open/close the valves were about half way under the trailer. Worse than that I found out that they were cable operated. Cable operated anything can be fine IF the cable is routed the correct way. The distance from the handles to the valves were less than 30" probably but the cables were six feet long. Wrapped in two loops none the less. I had to do some back-yard engineering in order to mount the handles at the outside edge of the unit and to get the cables to be more of in a direct line to the valves. I also found out that the valves put in place at the factory were "fixed" as to their position say clockwise. Internet research led me to valves that could be rotated to the position that would work best with the cable alignment before tightening the valves down. What I did was a tremendous improvement over what came from the factory. I have no experience with the electrically operated valves so no advice either way there.
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:01 AM   #7
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Thanks all for the replies so far. The lack of exerience with electrically operated valves appears to not be limited to this forum--I've talked to 2 different RV dealers in the last few days, and neither one has had much experience with them. It looks like I'm going to have to take the $ leap of faith, install them, and hope for the best (and uninstall them if they tick me off!)
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Nights- ('12)23 ('13)23 ('14)15 ('15)31 ('16)27 ('17) 20
2016 Ford Fusion Titanium (gulping gas again, camping support vehicle)
2014 Harley Davidson FLHX (XLR cargo)
2011 Ram 2500 CC 4X4 CTD, B&W Companion (toy hauler hauler)
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:16 AM   #8
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Taran', have you called Drainmaster out in California and talked with one of there guy/gals. Over the last few years I've not been shy at all about researching the web for contact info and calling to talk to the "technical" folks...not the sales guys. I specifically ask for technical support. I have had great success with getting really good down to earth honest information from most of the folks I talk with. Drainmaster is made in America too!!!!!

Thurman, I have a similar issue with the cable operated valves on my 2010 Sandpiper. They feel spongy and one of the gray tank valves actually does not seal completely (Thank Heaven it's the gray and not the black). It's suppose to be a rainy weekend here so I may drop the belly pan and see if I can fix it and reroute cables.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranwanderer View Post
Thanks all for the replies so far. The lack of exerience with electrically operated valves appears to not be limited to this forum--I've talked to 2 different RV dealers in the last few days, and neither one has had much experience with them. It looks like I'm going to have to take the $ leap of faith, install them, and hope for the best (and uninstall them if they tick me off!)
Before I went and did that, I would check out this brand new system from Lippert:
Waste Master, Permanent Connection Waste Management System

They are launching this product at Goshen next week. I will be attending the seminar and (assuming the WIFI is decent at the Rally) will post photos and perhaps video of the system in action.

From what I can tell, this is a hard install of a complete sewer routing system. It looks like the Stinky Slinky stores in a installed compartment under your rig, and everything is controlled by a release valve in the head at the CG sewer portal.

Y'all cross your fingers for us - I entered the contest to win a free system
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:38 PM   #10
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Taran, please do take the leap and let us know how it goes. My rear tanks are a pain to get to (I have to squeeze my lard ass between two slides and climb under one of them).
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