Running a Heater Inside Coach...Winter

[grumpy0374]

This year my better half is cutting back to part time, and next year, retiring. So, we will have a lot more time to hit the road.
Aside from dumping a few gallons of anti freeze in the black/gray tanks, this year I'm thinking of not winterizing the lines. Aside from the water heater, which I'll drain, I'm thinking of running an electric heater inside the coach. All the lines are inside, and I'd keep the cabinet doors open for warm air to circulate.
Reason is, we're going to use the Lexi several times this winter, running down to Ga and Fla. Would like to be able to just hook up the toad and go, and not have to re-winterize every time we get back.
Do any of you run heaters inside to keep lines clear, or have you run into any problems? Not worried about electric usage as rig is parked next to the house, and safety wise, I check the rig daily. Not even planning on covering it this year, either.
Your thoughts...
Grumpy

[MtnGuy]

A lot depends on where you are located. Southern states should not be a problem, but I would be concerned in the northern states.

I think the big problem would be in the lines under the floor. Many campers now have a covered bottom, with the furnace heat ducts running through that area. With the furnace on, it keeps that area relatively warm, but even then I would be concerned if the temperature gets down in the single digits.

If we plan a trip after the 1st frost or take a trip before the last frost in spring without winterizing the lines during those periods, I will run an electric heater in the camper, and also have the furnace so it comes on periodically. But that is just those nights when it gets down in the lower 30s or upper 20s. Anything colder, and I want my lines winterized.

[grumpy0374]

We're also in Va, just outside of Staunton. And it usually dosen't get down to a "hard freeze" that often.
The only lines I've found under the Lexi are the drain lines from the black and gray tanks, which I'll have anti freeze in. All the fresh water lines are inside the coach, behind cabinets under the kitchen and bathroom sinks, and under bed. Fresh water tank is actually behind an inside panel which I can remove to let warm air circulate.
We already have a trip planned for mid Nov to Ga and a trip to mid Fla in Jan. Those and the ability to take off whenever the notion strikes are the reason to keep it fairly simple to "get up n go"
Grumpy

[aceinspp]

Originally Posted by MtnGuy

A lot depends on where you are located. Southern states should not be a problem, but I would be concerned in the northern states.

I think the big problem would be in the lines under the floor. Many campers now have a covered bottom, with the furnace heat ducts running through that area. With the furnace on, it keeps that area relatively warm, but even then I would be concerned if the temperature gets down in the single digits.

If we plan a trip after the 1st frost or take a trip before the last frost in spring without winterizing the lines during those periods, I will run an electric heater in the camper, and also have the furnace so it comes on periodically. But that is just those nights when it gets down in the lower 30s or upper 20s. Anything colder, and I want my lines winterized.

X 2 Later RJD

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by grumpy0374

We're also in Va, just outside of Staunton. And it usually dosen't get down to a "hard freeze" that often.
The only lines I've found under the Lexi are the drain lines from the black and gray tanks, which I'll have anti freeze in. All the fresh water lines are inside the coach, behind cabinets under the kitchen and bathroom sinks, and under bed. Fresh water tank is actually behind an inside panel which I can remove to let warm air circulate.
We already have a trip planned for mid Nov to Ga and a trip to mid Fla in Jan. Those and the ability to take off whenever the notion strikes are the reason to keep it fairly simple to "get up n go"
Grumpy

Grumpy, the Staunton area usually runs several degrees colder than this side of the Blue Ridge, and we had a bunch of single digit nights last winter. With your setup, you should be OK for the November trip, but that January trip might be pushing it a bit.

When the temperatures get down and I have used the trailer, and question whether I have some residual fluid in at the waste lines, I will run rope lights around the lines. You might be able to do the same to keep some heat on your fresh water drain lines that stick out of the bottom of your covered area.

[grumpy0374]

Yeah, agree about the black/gray drains, but I can run some anti freeze directly into them via drains and potty. And, yes about the fresh water drains, have about 8" protruding from bottom of coach.
Just wanting to avoid having to run the anti through the inside fresh water lines. I usually run anti through the lines rather than blowing them out. Those are all the one's that are inside.
Just figuring on keeping interior at around 38-40 degrees.
Grumpy

[Mike ONeill]

We use a heater in our TT 29 ft flagstaff ultra light and I place a remote sensor in the compartment that houses hot water, filter and pump to monitor temperature at this area as it is seperated from the living quarters usually if trailer is 50 or so compartment stays above freezing, I have placed a small heater in the compartment also when it really dips to the teens or less in Charlotte , NC area

[dunk05]

I have a Lexi and wintertime by blowing out all lines with air including drains. Remove water filter and drain water heater. Works fine .no anti freeze to fool with.

[HerveVR]

Proper winterizing is a DIY procedure that takes about 60 min and 2 gal of antifreeze.

The simple question you have to ask yourself is: What is cheaper ?

Repairing a broken water line behind or under the cabinets in hard to access locations and thight fitted hardware OR winterizing at few occasions ?

Personally, after calculation, I prefer the second option.