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Old 10-05-2015, 12:27 PM   #1
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Secret to blank tank flush?

Is there some other step necessary to get the black tank flush to work?

I tried mine for the first time today.....and quickly found out that the quality control people at FR were sleeping on the job. I had water squirting all over the inside of my bathroom cabinet. The tank flush line comes through the wall from the outside inside the cabinet with a white flexible hose. The guys at the factory didn't tighten the fitting on what I'm assuming is the check valve, black plastic thing that the white hose goes in to and has a blue pex line coming out and running parallel to the white line before disappearing through the base of the cabinet to where the black tank is.

I tightened the connection on the incoming hose to what I'm assuming is the check valve, cleaned up all the spilled water and tried again.....nothing. No water went into the tank. I kept the toilet open so I could see so I know there was no back pressure on the system - nothing.

What else do I need to do? (I also posted this on an older thread, sorry for starting a new one, I didn't know if anyone would see the old one or not.)
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Old 10-05-2015, 12:32 PM   #2
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They may have put the check valve in backwards (should be an arrow on it , I think) or the the valve is bad.
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Old 10-05-2015, 12:54 PM   #3
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The valve you are talking about is a vacuum breaker ... they are put on to keep possible siphoning of water back into the supply faucet. They often fail and make a real mess due to spraying water all over. It is possible that the nozzle is plugged up in you tank from a bad install.
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Old 10-05-2015, 01:03 PM   #4
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IMO, the best thing to do is go to Lowes/HD and get a quality back flow preventer valve and hook it directly to the inlet (inside the trailer) and disconnect the stuff the factory installed and re-route the inlet directly to the flush line and throw the factory stuff in the garbage.
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Old 10-05-2015, 02:41 PM   #5
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This is what I'm referring to -

The white water line goes through the wall to the outside fitting, the blue pex goes from the top down to the tank



This photo is looking up at the underside of the bathroom vanity top.
This is where the white water line and blue pex meet with the valve/back flow preventer/vacuum breaker or whatever it's called.



This is the valve/back flow preventer/vacuum breaker. The white water line fitting was loose and this is where it sprayed water from all over. Once I tightened the fitting up nothing happened when I turned the water on to the outside fitting.



If the mechanism in the tank is bad how would the dealer replace it? Do they need to drop the black water tank?
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Old 10-05-2015, 03:11 PM   #6
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It could be that the blue line is simply kinked shut below. As far as I know ... you would have to at least have access to the flush fitting on the side of the tank to remove the hose and see if construction debris has packed inside. Whether this includes dropping the tank depends on your rigs construction.
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Old 10-05-2015, 05:55 PM   #7
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I did some more research. My water inlets are B&B products. I found this on their website:


What they are calling ATMOSPHERIC VACUUM BREAKER/ CHECK VALVE is what I'm seeing under my vanity top. I guess the good news is that if that needs replacement it's fairly easy. Everything has a pex crimp clamp on it so just taking the hoses off to see if they're blocked looks to be a pain. The good news is that my camper is less than 4 months old so it's still under warranty. It's a PITA to take it back to the dealer as the closest dealer for Forester is 100 miles away, but they can figure it out and pay for it.

Edit - WOW - just found out the check valve is $50....this is definitely a warranty issue!

For anyone else, here's a link to the PDF with the installation instructions. It might help someone off warranty troubleshoot: http://www.bandbmolders.com/files/Th...2_Install_.pdf
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Old 10-06-2015, 12:36 PM   #8
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Did the same as OC suggested.....mine was starting to leak from the inside plastic valve that's supposed to shut off the vent part when water pressure is applied. Got rid of this valve and, on mine, 15' of white hose.
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Old 10-06-2015, 12:47 PM   #9
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The check valve is there by code, but IMHO, isn't absolutely necessary. Throw it away, put in a short piece of pipe, reclamp it, and try it again.
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Old 10-06-2015, 01:31 PM   #10
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If you're going to connect to a potable water supply, it's absolutely necessary for the safety of the water supply.

I have an external plastic backflow preventer/vacuum break/check valve that I've been using for our black tank flush hose (got it for free from the RV dealer). I haven't looked to see if there's one inside but I expect there would be. I just like the safety of knowing for sure that I'm using one.

On our last camping trip I connected the plastic valve and hose to the flusher inlet and the high water pressure blew the plastic check valve apart. I need to pickup a brass check valve and then try to see what the plumbing is like inside.

Is this what I should be looking for?
Aquadynamic | Vacuum Breaker 3/4 Inch Brass | Home Depot Canada
or this
8 Hose Connection Vacuum Breakers, Brass, Vacuum Breakers, Backflow Prevention - Watts Canada

I'll probably pick up a basic pressure reducer too because we camp at that campground every year.
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