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Old 02-02-2018, 10:39 AM   #1
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Soft Shower Floor

I have a Clipper 17RD with the shower stall in it instead of the little tub. The floor, or pan, of the shower flexes a little bit under foot when showering. I was wondering if anyone has done anything to reinforce the floor? Also if the trailer isn't leveled just right I end up with water on the floor, I believe the water is running down the shower wall and into that lower lip where it just runs along the edge and out onto the floor.

I'll try and get some pictures added today.

Thanks.
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Old 02-02-2018, 11:00 AM   #2
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I'm following this because the shower in our Grey Wolf 23mk is the same way. Was debating trying to peal the trim and put in some expanding foam. On ours the bedroom furnace vent line runs under the shower, which may or may not complicate things.
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Old 02-02-2018, 02:29 PM   #3
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"MillMitch", you're close to the solution. For a number of years after retirement from a 8-4 job I operated a "HouseHold HandyMan" type business. Numerous times I was called about the bottom of a plastic/fiberglass type shower pan and even tubs that had a "soft" bottom. The solution to these was to find the adjoining wall of the shower/tub, draw a line on the baseboard on the adjoining wall and remove the baseboard. I then cut the drywall about 1/2" below the line and removed the drywall. I could then access the area between the bottom of the shower pan/bathtub and the floor under them. I then placed a garbage bag into this space spreading it out as best I could. Then I take a piece of 1/4" cheap plastic tubing and tape it to something like a yardstick, or some piece of wood cheaper, so that it will reach into the backside of the garbage bag. One end of the tubing goes over the little tube thingy on the can of GF. At this point fill the shower pan almost full of water with the drain closed. On a tub fill the tub about half way with the drain plugged. While holding the yardstick place the open end of the tubing into the far end of the garbage bag, start spraying while moving back and forth and with drawing the tubing. As the GF expands the weight of the shower pan/tub will prevent the GF from expanding upwards and it will spread out making a firm area between the shower pan/tub and the floor. Using the garbage bag prevents the GF from sticking to everything under the shower pan/tub.To replace the baseboard I nail on a short piece of the old drywall to each stud to space the baseboard when re-installing. I assure you that I have done around 6-8 of these and they worked each time.
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Old 02-02-2018, 02:42 PM   #4
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Thanks for the reply. What kind of foam did you use?
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Old 02-02-2018, 02:47 PM   #5
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Excellent, thanks. This just got added to my spring camper to-do list.
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Old 02-02-2018, 02:56 PM   #6
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Is the whole floor your issue or just from about the drain forward? I've fixed a couple like that.

My shower pan " appears" to rest on a styrofoam sheet and maybe boxed in underneath but the end wall of the box extends no further forward towards the door than the approximate center of the drain and runs parallel to the door. Drain sits about 8" back from access panel, so from the drain forward to the door the pan is unsupported
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Old 02-02-2018, 03:12 PM   #7
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I'm almost sure it was a "GreatFoam" product. There are others which will do the same job. I do know that I bought the type that is something like "low expansion". There is usually about an inch between the bottom of a shower pan/bath tub and the floor.
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Old 02-03-2018, 12:30 AM   #8
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That sounds like a great idea! Be careful which foam you get, as previously mentioned!
I used some of that can foam maybe 30 years ago to fix a hollow bdrm door after my tenant punched a hole in it. Came back the next day to finish the patch and the door looked like a giant pillow. And I didn't use that much foam.
Do a test of the foam you buy to test expansion.
I've fixed soft and spongy tub and shower floors using Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty. But I've always removed the shower pan to do it because the stuff mixes like mortar. Shooting foam from a can is an excellent idea in a tight spot if you get the right volume.
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Old 02-23-2018, 01:13 AM   #9
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I had a 4 Winds class C that had that same problem. The floor around the drain had no support and it cracked all around the drain. Because there was no foam blocks around the pipe and the pipe, being rigid, didn't flex with the floor pan it just cracked all round the pipe. I fixed it with a larger drain flange and plumbers putty after foaming the entire area around the drain pipe to support it. I noticed the same thing happening on my new Windjammer and will have to preemptively foam that as well.
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