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Old 05-21-2012, 07:11 AM   #1
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Solved- Dry fired hot water heater

Hi folks,

So in my haste i fired up the hot water heater this weekend in gas mode with no water in the hot water heater tank,i realized what i had done 10 minutes later but it was to late and the damage had been done..Im assuming that it tripped out on high temp.limit.I tried pushing the manual reset for the burner but it seemed like nothing happened or it wasnt tripped.It wont light at all or make an effort which is telling me that it is locked out.Will i have the electric element burned out as well? Am i missing something here?What will i have to replace ?What type of dmaga may i have done?My trailer is a 2012 salem hemisphere lite with a sw6de suburban water heater(Gas and electric) I need help as my dealer is a round trip of 1000 kms.
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:58 AM   #2
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Make sure you push both black rubber buttons to reset.
Do you have 12 volts from battery?
Is the hot water switch turned on inside?
Have you checked all the fuses in the DC panel?
Do you have the Gas turned on?
Do you have power to your Propane detector inside (green light)

If it is new I'd see what your dealer can do.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:05 AM   #3
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There are two reset buttons.
One for AC and one for DC/Propane.
Both may have popped.

If the black switch was on without water in the tank and power on the rig, you will need a new element.

I doubt the dealer is going to "cover" this repair as it was user caused.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:05 AM   #4
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A semi-related question here: I'm currently camping at beautiful Otter Lake and I decided to try the electric water heating element. I was surprised that it seems to get the water hotter than the propane does! So my question is, can the electric element be left on as long as there's water in the tank, or should I be turning it off to give it a break, like if we're not going to be needing hot water for a few hours? Thanks!
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:06 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
There are two reset buttons.
One for AC and one for DC/Propane.
Both may have popped.

If the black switch was on without water in the tank and power on the rig, you will need a new element.

I doubt the dealer is going to "cover" this repair as it was user caused.
The switch for electric was definatly off so the element should still be ok right? i have tried resetting/pushing on the rubber grommets that say "push to reset" but nothing happens,nothing moved indicating that it reset. Is this just the ac reset?if so where is the dc gas reset located?Do you think i may have damaged something else? I think what im trying to reset is the eco/thermostat reset.my dealer is 1000 km round trip away and im almost sure that i will have to repair this myself.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
Make sure you push both black rubber buttons to reset.
Do you have 12 volts from battery?
Is the hot water switch turned on inside?
Have you checked all the fuses in the DC panel?
Do you have the Gas turned on?
Do you have power to your Propane detector inside (green light)

If it is new I'd see what your dealer can do.
i have pushed both black rubber buttons and nothing happened,no noise ,no movement

Yes i have 12 volts from battery

Yes hot water switch is on inside

no fuses burned out

Gas on and lots of propane and yes the green light is on lp detector.

I lit the hot water heater on propane with no water.Im assuming it reached high temp and tripped but nothing happened when i tried resetting the 2 rubber buttons?im stumped with this
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranwanderer
A semi-related question here: I'm currently camping at beautiful Otter Lake and I decided to try the electric water heating element. I was surprised that it seems to get the water hotter than the propane does! So my question is, can the electric element be left on as long as there's water in the tank, or should I be turning it off to give it a break, like if we're not going to be needing hot water for a few hours? Thanks!
Leaving it on will be fine.
You can use both at the same time as well. Gas/ and electric
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:37 AM   #8
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There is a good chance you have warped the water heater tank.
I assume you have filled it with water under pressure? Make sure to test for leaks first.
But yes, your electric element should be fine. So if you have no leaks, at least you should have hot water.
Not quite sure what to say about the propane not working, unless the high limit switch got fried. If you can disconnect the wires on the switch, check for continuity there.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:42 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by DonG View Post
There is a good chance you have warped the water heater tank.
I assume you have filled it with water under pressure? Make sure to test for leaks first.
But yes, your electric element should be fine. So if you have no leaks, at least you should have hot water.
Not quite sure what to say about the propane not working, unless the high limit switch got fried. If you can disconnect the wires on the switch, check for continuity there.
I figured the electric element would still be fine but that wont work now either.It is locked out i think but i cant reset,maybe it melted something together.
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:45 AM   #10
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I don't see where you said that you filled the RV system with water, did you?

Did you vent the water heater tank?
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRS View Post
I don't see where you said that you filled the RV system with water, did you?

Did you vent the water heater tank?
The fresh water tank is full of water and no i did not vent the tank before i filled it after i ran it without water.
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranwanderer View Post
A semi-related question here: I'm currently camping at beautiful Otter Lake and I decided to try the electric water heating element. I was surprised that it seems to get the water hotter than the propane does! So my question is, can the electric element be left on as long as there's water in the tank, or should I be turning it off to give it a break, like if we're not going to be needing hot water for a few hours? Thanks!
It will turn itself on/off as needed, so no worries. There is still a thermostat.

I keep our electric on all the time. Occasionally, if I am showering, I will also turn on the gas for a quicker recovery.
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:58 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRS View Post
I don't see where you said that you filled the RV system with water, did you?

Did you vent the water heater tank?

The fresh water tank is full and no i did not vent the hot water tank before i re-filled it after the dry fire.What difference would not venting make?I opened up hot water line on faucet and steady flow of water comin from hw tank since dry fire.
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:02 AM   #14
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Shrimper, you say you have to fix this so let's get started--

You'll need a multi meter and a few basic tools.

See the photo in message 2 below by iggy??
See that black rubber cover right below the water pop off valve?
Under there are the 2 over temp reset buttons.
Since you have pressed them with no luck it's time to dig deeper.

Make sure 120v power is OFF. Either by circuit breaker in your main panel
or better yet, unplug the water heater. Many are simply plugged into an
outlet that is located on the back side of the water heater tank.
This is not accessible from outside water heater hatch. Inside probably.

Once power is fer sure off, remove that black rubber cover.
Under the cover you will see the 2 over temp buttons which are part
of the thermostats.

Note there are 2 and these are completely separate.
12v gas is totally independent of the 120v electric.
You can use either one or both at once.

Once you have the rubber cover off, you can see the white reset button.
Push both.
Look at the photo in post 15 in this thread--
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post197294

Note the left side fusable link is burned out.
Make sure neither of yours are burned out.

Pull the 12v power fuse on the water heater momentarily. This might reset
it.
Now after making SURE your tank is full of water, and pressing the
white reset buttons under the rubber cover, try again.

Turn on the 120v and you should hear the electric element sing quietly
as it's heating water. Much like a pan of water will sing on a stove when
the water is heating.

Also try the gas and report back what you find.
Tell us what if anything worked and we'll go from there.
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Old 05-21-2012, 01:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranwanderer View Post
A semi-related question here: I'm currently camping at beautiful Otter Lake and I decided to try the electric water heating element. I was surprised that it seems to get the water hotter than the propane does! So my question is, can the electric element be left on as long as there's water in the tank, or should I be turning it off to give it a break, like if we're not going to be needing hot water for a few hours? Thanks!
Yes you can
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
Shrimper, you say you have to fix this so let's get started--

You'll need a multi meter and a few basic tools.

See the photo in message 2 below by iggy??
See that black rubber cover right below the water pop off valve?
Under there are the 2 over temp reset buttons.
Since you have pressed them with no luck it's time to dig deeper.

Make sure 120v power is OFF. Either by circuit breaker in your main panel
or better yet, unplug the water heater. Many are simply plugged into an
outlet that is located on the back side of the water heater tank.
This is not accessible from outside water heater hatch. Inside probably.

Once power is fer sure off, remove that black rubber cover.
Under the cover you will see the 2 over temp buttons which are part
of the thermostats.

Note there are 2 and these are completely separate.
12v gas is totally independent of the 120v electric.
You can use either one or both at once.

Once you have the rubber cover off, you can see the white reset button.
Push both.
Look at the photo in post 15 in this thread--
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post197294

Note the left side fusable link is burned out.
Make sure neither of yours are burned out.

Pull the 12v power fuse on the water heater momentarily. This might reset
it.
Now after making SURE your tank is full of water, and pressing the
white reset buttons under the rubber cover, try again.

Turn on the 120v and you should hear the electric element sing quietly
as it's heating water. Much like a pan of water will sing on a stove when
the water is heating.

Also try the gas and report back what you find.
Tell us what if anything worked and we'll go from there.
Thanks for your help.I will give er a try tomorrow evening and report back what i come up with .Im stumped on whats going on ,i figured i would just have to reset the eco/thermo but no luck.Thanks again for your time,i really appreciate it
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
Shrimper, you say you have to fix this so let's get started--

You'll need a multi meter and a few basic tools.

See the photo in message 2 below by iggy??
See that black rubber cover right below the water pop off valve?
Under there are the 2 over temp reset buttons.
Since you have pressed them with no luck it's time to dig deeper.

Make sure 120v power is OFF. Either by circuit breaker in your main panel
or better yet, unplug the water heater. Many are simply plugged into an
outlet that is located on the back side of the water heater tank.
This is not accessible from outside water heater hatch. Inside probably.

Once power is fer sure off, remove that black rubber cover.
Under the cover you will see the 2 over temp buttons which are part
of the thermostats.

Note there are 2 and these are completely separate.
12v gas is totally independent of the 120v electric.
You can use either one or both at once.

Once you have the rubber cover off, you can see the white reset button.
Push both.
Look at the photo in post 15 in this thread--
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post197294

Note the left side fusable link is burned out.
Make sure neither of yours are burned out.

Pull the 12v power fuse on the water heater momentarily. This might reset
it.
Now after making SURE your tank is full of water, and pressing the
white reset buttons under the rubber cover, try again.

Turn on the 120v and you should hear the electric element sing quietly
as it's heating water. Much like a pan of water will sing on a stove when
the water is heating.

Also try the gas and report back what you find.
Tell us what if anything worked and we'll go from there.
So i did what you told me .i took off cover and tried pushing (red reset buttons on my heater) with nothing happening,.Both fusable links are fine.refilled tank and tried to run in electric with nothing happening .Same for gas.I then took multimeter and tested .The one on left facing the back of hw heater outside of trailer tested good,both top and bottom parts of it all read zero's in ohm's mode.The one on the right however with the red reset comin out of it(top part) never had continuity and stayed at 1 on meter while the bottom part of it read all zero's.
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:20 PM   #18
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I now have hot water using electric element but still no gas so im assuming that i got the eco/thermo for the gas side burned up?
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrimper View Post
I now have hot water using electric element but still no gas so im assuming that i got the eco/thermo for the gas side burned up?
That seems reasonable to me...
They are both pretty simple circuits.
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:10 AM   #20
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You should have 12v on both wires at the t-stat/hi limit switch.
Put one meter lead on ground and test each wire while it's plugged
onto the T-stat.
12v on one side but not the other means the T-stat/hi limit is still
kicked out and possibly damaged. I doubt this but check it.
No voltage on either side means a fuse or loose wire or switch is still off.

You can also jump across the t-stat/hi limit to see if the burner
tries to light.
Be careful!! One side is 12v but the other t-stat is 120v AC!!
Make sure you know which is which!

Good luck!
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