Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-15-2015, 03:18 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 8
Starting Water Heater - SW6DE

My wife and I just bought our first travel trailer, a 2012 Cherokee 26L. We're excited to begin using it and I have been going through the systems to get familiar with them as well as to de-winterize the TT. The person I bought it from didn't know much about it (he never used it), so I've relied on the manuals and many of the posts in these forums.

I have one problem that has me stymied. I filled the propane tanks and connected my hose to the city water supply port on the TT yesterday to test out those functions. I attempted to turn on the water heater using the switch inside the coach, which I now understand to be the DSI switch. I first tried to confirm that I had water in the hot water tank by checking to see if water flowed freely from the hot water lines in the kitchen sink (it did). The water heater fired up (I could hear it and feel the heat outside the access panel) and I expected hot water soon.

After several minutes with no hot water I got anxious and turned the DSI switch off. After a long hunt I finally found the hot water tank and learned that it was indeed in bypass mode. I changed the valves to fill the tank and take it out of bypass mode. After struggling a bit to replace the anode so that the water wasn't pouring out of the tank, I finally got the tank filled and attempted to heat the water by turning on the switch. It stubbornly refused to fire up this time....

I have tried pushing what I think is the reset button, as well as turning the DSI switch off and on (as directed in the manual), but still don't seem to be able to coax the ignitor to fire up. I do have gas working properly on the range, so I don't think that it's a gas supply problem.

Any thoughts? Did I break something or is there some reset procedure that I am missing?

Thanks in advance for any help!
__________________

__________________
jlietzow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 03:45 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Broadway Joe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 636
If you tried to heat without water, the overheat sensor probably tripped. It is a rubber covered button, that you can press to rest.
Sorry I don't have a picture for you.
__________________

__________________
Broadway Joe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 03:55 PM   #3
Site Team
 
wmtire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 15,008
I would recommend reading this FAQ on the water heater, if you do indeed have the Suburban brand. It has a lot of details that get overlooked:

Suburban's electric switch and much more

Hold on a sec and I will get some pics of the ECO hi-limit thermostats that joenic53 is explaining to you. This emergency cut off will trip if the temp get's too high...but can also burn out too.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS

Ducks are just all-terrain chickens
wmtire is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 03:59 PM   #4
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 8
Thanks for the prompt reply. I've attached a pic here of my WH from the access panel. There are two buttons covered by rubber (conveniently next to the phrase "Push to reset" ), although the rubber has worn off the one on the left.

From looking at the parts diagram in the manual, the one on the right is the 12 VDC switch, and the left is the 120 VAC switch. The 12 VDC switch seems to depress, but the 120 VAC switch doesn't seem to move at all (the one on the left where the rubber has worn off). I'm not sure which one would have tripped, but I've tried pushing them both repeatedly to no avail.

I also learned that my WH has an electric heating element, which had been switched off. I turned that on but it doesn't seem to be getting warmer. Does that take a long time, or is my electric heating element shot?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20150715_144332.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	287.2 KB
ID:	82984  
__________________
jlietzow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 04:00 PM   #5
Site Team
 
wmtire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 15,008
First off, make sure you read the above link and verify there is water in the heater using the temp/pressure relief valve near the top of the water heater.


If you have the Suburban water heater, your resets are underneath this rubber cover. If you have a water heater that can be powered by propane and an electric heating element, then you also have two Hi-limit thermostats (one for each). Just press both to make sure.



Now if this doesn't solve the problem, the hi-limit may be burned out. You will have to remove the rubber cover to check. I will edit this post with a pic of this in a minute.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS

Ducks are just all-terrain chickens
wmtire is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 04:08 PM   #6
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 8
Correction - my electric heating element does appear to be working. I just needed to be a bit more patient.....
__________________
jlietzow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 04:09 PM   #7
Site Team
 
wmtire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 15,008
Here is what you will find underneath the cover. You may want to see (what you could call a fusible link) between the two terminals (upper and lower) has melted away, which it's designed to in order to save the wiring from burning up.

If you will notice in the pic below, the left hi-limit has blown, but the right thermostat is still intact. You have to replace the entire hi-limit thermostat either for the 120 volt AC (electric heating element) or 12 volt DC side (DSI/propane) when this happens. They are two different part numbers, so make sure you get the correct one if applicable to your situation.

__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS

Ducks are just all-terrain chickens
wmtire is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 04:20 PM   #8
Ret E-9 Anchor-clanker
 
donanddona's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Genoa, ILL
Posts: 1,424
If your getting hot water by the electrical element then I would let everything dry out. Water may have gotten the wiring wet and not allowing the fuel valves to operate correctly, or you cold have gotten the orifice wet. There is an alignment check but unless you got vigorous with the drain plug and jarred something, I wouldn't worry.
__________________
Don & Dona W/yorkies Gizmo, Master Chief, & Tali
2011 Flagstaff 8528 BHSS 2015 Ford 6.7 XLT
2010 Full Timers & Still Going
donanddona is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 04:25 PM   #9
Ret E-9 Anchor-clanker
 
donanddona's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Genoa, ILL
Posts: 1,424
When you turn the water heater on go outside by it and listen for the ignitor to "click" or attempt to ignite the LP gas. Can you hear it? It should attempt to ignite up to three separate attempts. No ignition will cause the propane to lock out and you will need to turn the WH switch off wait three minutes and turn it back on for an additional three attempts to ignite. Additionally I believe the electrical element will need the WH switch to be in the on position to heat the WH.
__________________
Don & Dona W/yorkies Gizmo, Master Chief, & Tali
2011 Flagstaff 8528 BHSS 2015 Ford 6.7 XLT
2010 Full Timers & Still Going
donanddona is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 04:32 PM   #10
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 8
Thanks so much for all of the suggestions. I did pull off the rubber cover and found the fusible links intact. However, pushing the button on the left still seems off. It doesn't move much at all and there's no click. The switch on the right at least makes a soft clicking sound when I press it. Is it possible that this is bad even though the fusible link is still in place?

I do still have a slow leak around the anode (I need to clean that up and put on some teflon tape). Is it possible that this water leak is affecting the propane ignition? It doesn't seem to be getting that part of the system wet. I also don't hear any clicking to indicate that it's trying to ignite.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20150715_161946.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	210.0 KB
ID:	82988  
__________________

__________________
jlietzow is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
heater, water, water heater

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:46 AM.