Stubborn water heater drain plug

[SandGMoon]

We bought our Flagstaff trailer late last Summer. When Winterizing, I was unable to get the 3/4" PVC plug unscrewed from the hot water drain without risking stripping it. Does anyone have any recommendations on removing this stubborn plug?

[puff]

Looks like someone has put the wrong thing in the wrong place. The plug your looking at should be an anode rod and not PVC. I am not sure about the PVC plug but the anode rod has an 1 1/16 socket to remove it.
If yours is indeed PVC I say put a socket on it and give 'er. If it strips you may have to drill it out. The hot water temps and the heat from the propane has probably melted it in place somewhat.

[jwedell]

If it's a Suburban tank it's an anode rod. If it's an Atwood I believe it's a drain plug.

[Ford Idaho]

Is that an Atwood?

PB Blaster, let it sit for a few min and then try again.

[fonzie]

Remove plastic plug, flush water tank with water to remove debris and replace with anode rod.

Suburban Anode Rod Replacement - Suburban 232767 - Water Heaters - Camping World

[SandGMoon]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

Is that an Atwood?

PB Blaster, let it sit for a few min and then try again.

Flagstaff

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by SandGMoon

Flagstaff

The water heater, not the trailer...

[SandGMoon]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

The water heater, not the trailer...

Sorry for the "noob" answer. I don't know what the water heater is. I'll have to check it when I get there.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by SandGMoon

Sorry for the "noob" answer. I don't know what the water heater is. I'll have to check it when I get there.

Great, if it is an Atwood then just us the PB Blaster or some WD-40 od liquid wrench on the threads and let it soak and then try to remove it.

Its plastic and cheap so if you bust it is not a biggy just buy an other one.

If is a Suburban and you bust it still not a biggy as you need to have an Anode rod as posted above.

[Herk7769]

That is a Suburban water heater with the iron tank.
That unit needs an anode.

I assume since it has a PVC plug instead (for a while) the interior of the tank is most likely shot. Corrosion/rust at the anode and electric element ports, the cold water inlet and hot water outlet port, and the pressure relief valve is a pretty sure indication that the porcelain lining of the interior is most likely compromised (cracked from rust).

I am pretty sure the reason the PVC plug was installed was because the water routinely used had high levels of iron or sulphates and destroyed the OEM anode quickly. Never checked, the socket started to leak and rusted out the threads. The original owner did not want to replace the heater so the anode was replaced with the soft plastic plug that could be tightened enough to seal.

Be prepared in case that is so. Water heaters are not ALL that expensive, but can be beyond the "shade tree" mechanic's ability to install.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylab1Z7-zbs

http://www.americanrvcompany.com/Sub...FRQaOgodzT4AMA

PS - save your door since it does NOT come with the replacement unit!

[KyDan]

Don't count the WH out yet.
The plastic plug needs to come out. Use a 6 point socket not a 12 pt and
it will probably come out.
If it rounds off or breaks it can be drilled.
Drill a 1/2 inch hole in the center of the plastic plug.
Insert a hack saw blade. Tape the other end of the blade so it's easier
to hold and not get scratched. Carefully cut -just - till you reach the
metal threads. Do this on 2 or 3 sides. Now you can remove the
pieces. You can probably borrow or rent a 3/4" pipe tap at a good
hardware store or rental place.
Just run the tap in the threads enough to clean them. Don't tap any
deeper.
Alternate- buy a little round rotary wire brush that can be put in a drill.
Wire brush the threads as good as you possibly can.
Once the threads are reasonably cleaned up flush the tank a few times to
get out the debris.
Use PLENTY of teflon tape on the new anode/drain plug when you replace
it.
Even better- get a little "brush in cap" can of Oatey Great White pipe
dope with teflon. Local home center will have it in the plumbing section.

A good RV mechanic can also do this for you.
Good Luck!

[Herk7769]

Dan, that heater is only 2 or 3 years old (2011 model camper) and the corrosion/rust looks worse than some 10 year old units I have seen. I don't have a lot of faith that this will turn out well for SandGmoon.

[mark0224]

Definitely a suburban and the nylon plug shouldn't be a problem put a socket on it and it will turn out, nylon doesn't rust in so worst it can do is leave a little residue in threads. I just got my unit last fall and the fools at the dealer said the trailer was all winterized yet it still had the anode in and it was rusted because there was no Teflon tape used but I got it out with a socket and a ratchet. Now I have to flush tank because the fools never used the bypass and got antifreeze in hot water tank.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by mark0224

Definitely a suburban and the nylon plug shouldn't be a problem put a socket on it and it will turn out, nylon doesn't rust in so worst it can do is leave a little residue in threads. I just got my unit last fall and the fools at the dealer said the trailer was all winterized yet it still had the anode in and it was rusted because there was no Teflon tape used but I got it out with a socket and a ratchet. Now I have to flush tank because the fools never used the bypass and got antifreeze in hot water tank.

Wow. Time to look for a new dealer to service your unit.
The one you have needs to be spanked hard.

We have a dealer review area in the forum.

[Great Horned Owl]

Definitely, use a six point socket. Try repeatedly sharply rapping on the wrench (not too hard) with a hammer. If nothing else works, go out and rent an impact wrench.

Joel

[mark0224]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

Wow. Time to look for a new dealer to service your unit.
The one you have needs to be spanked hard.

We have a dealer review area in the forum.

Did the dealer review last fall in regards to other things.

Yes they should be spanked, When I got it last fall it was cold enough that I didn't get to check the anode and as soon as it got nice enough I took it out and it had antifreeze on it. Going to try to flush things out and see if there is any damage. Got an extended warranty mostly because it was a used unit and because I couldn't check things like this and a piece of mind. So far everything works right, water heater is my last check because I haven't been able to add water to flush lines and ck.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Great Horned Owl

Definitely, use a six point socket. Try repeatedly sharply rapping on the wrench (not too hard) with a hammer. If nothing else works, go out and rent an impact wrench.

Joel

Its a PVC plug they are trying to remove, Youroo!!

[Spikedog]

Originally Posted by youroo

Its a PVC plug they are trying to remove, Youroo!!

Right, it's just plastic. In the OP's thumbnail picture, the plug looks WAY too nice. I wouldn't have posted until that plug was all gnawed up from sockets, hammers, and vise-grip pliers.

What's so bad about a bit of antifreeze in the water heater? It gets flushed out when you de-winterize, what's the harm (other than the waste of RV antifreeze)?

[Great Horned Owl]

Originally Posted by youroo

Its a PVC plug they are trying to remove, Youroo!!

I agree. I have never had trouble with a plastic plug, but for some reason, the OP did state that the plug was "stubborn."

Joel

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by Spikedog

What's so bad about a bit of antifreeze in the water heater? It gets flushed out when you de-winterize, what's the harm (other than the waste of RV antifreeze)?

Some have posted that antifreeze in the water heater can react with the
tank and cause corrosion.
I don't know if that's true but I don't plan to find out either!