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Old 09-05-2016, 05:50 PM   #1
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Suburban Anode - tapered thread?

This morning I replaced my water heater tank anode for the first time. Somehow, I'd missed this "must do" in the past and the original anode (well, what was left of it after 3 years) started to leak on my last trip.

The old anode came loose pretty easily. The replacement however, was much harder to tighten down - i'm thinking I got maybe 3 or 4 threads seated before it was tight enough that I worried about breaking it with additional muscle. I did put a wrap of teflon tape on...

I'm wondering now if the anode has tapered threads and/or if the normal 'fit' leaves a few threads exposed outside?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:59 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by vocoder View Post
This morning I replaced my water heater tank anode for the first time. Somehow, I'd missed this "must do" in the past and the original anode (well, what was left of it after 3 years) started to leak on my last trip.

The old anode came loose pretty easily. The replacement however, was much harder to tighten down - i'm thinking I got maybe 3 or 4 threads seated before it was tight enough that I worried about breaking it with additional muscle. I did put a wrap of teflon tape on...

I'm wondering now if the anode has tapered threads and/or if the normal 'fit' leaves a few threads exposed outside?

Thanks in advance!
I believe the anode rod threads are pipe thread so there is a slight taper. There are always a few threads exposed after being tightened.
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:04 PM   #3
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Yes there should be a few threads exposed if it is tight and does not leak you should be good to go.


Every three years is about the correct replacement time depending on your water.


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Old 09-05-2016, 06:16 PM   #4
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Yes you should have run a 3/4 Tapered Pipe Tap in the hole! Youroo!!
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:51 PM   #5
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You probably don't have a 3/4" pipe tap (i don't) but a good stiff bristle brush will clean it up. Then flush out tank
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:55 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by mike.t View Post
You probably don't have a 3/4" pipe tap (i don't) but a good stiff bristle brush will clean it up. Then flush out tank
I was shocked at how much gunk came out of the flush.....
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:00 PM   #7
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Yes you should have run a 3/4 Tapered Pipe Tap in the hole! Youroo!!
You use a die for pipe. You use a tap for fittings. Just saying.

Bruce
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:17 PM   #8
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My previous rig I could only get about 2 full threads in the hole! I used Oatey "great white" pipe dope with teflon on the plug/anode. It never looked like it was in there far enough but it never leaked either.

If it ain't broke- don't fix it applies here or rather if it ain't leaking, don't mess with it!!

Do not over tighten!! If it rusts in there and you can't get it out- you're
screwed! Drilling an old one out is a PIA so do use plenty of teflon tape or dope and don't over do it with the socket.

Happy Trails!
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:31 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Lynlanning View Post
I was shocked at how much gunk came out of the flush.....
Had the same issue as the OP and during an earlier anode change I couldn't get the new anode in as far as I thought the old anode was in. I picked up a wire brush a month later and was at the storage place and decided to clean the threads; I "power flushed" my tank..., and yes, I forgot to bleed off the tank pressure before unscrewing the anode! Cleaned the tank right out though! On me, the trailer stored next to mine, the driveway, and all over the tool box. Boy, there was a LOT of junk in there. Was. Brushed the threads and wrapped Teflon around the new anode; no leaks, no problems. Still didn't screw in as far, but it was better. Made note to self not to do that again.
BTW - I do NOT recommend the "Power Flush" method...just saying.
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:54 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by nomad297 View Post
You use a die for pipe. You use a tap for fittings. Just saying.

Bruce
One uses a "die" to cut threads on a piece of pipe....one uses a "tap" to cut threads in a hole drilled for same. Just sayin'..... Youroo stated it correctly!
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:03 PM   #11
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New rods are not like the ones years ago....I think something has changed...Years ago you could practically turn in with your fingers!!!!
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:26 PM   #12
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You use a die for pipe. You use a tap for fittings. Just saying.

Bruce
Sorry but I use a TAP for Holes,we are talking about a "Entrance Hole in the Tank,that the A-Rod Threads into"! Youroo!!
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:28 PM   #13
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Anode rod

X2 on the releasing the water pressure prior to removing the anode rod. Sprayed all over me and the motorhome side... My son just stood there and laughed at me. That's OK, karma is a booger...

I used a toothbrush size stainless steel wire brush, the kind you can use for welding cleanup, to clean the crud and old teflon tape out of the tank socket and the threads on the rod.

Wrap teflon tape on the new rod.
I put a wadded up piece of newspaper in the socket to keep the anode closer to the end of socket and provide better control.
I give the rod in the socket a "fireman's turn" in the left hand direction and when the threads are aligned you will feel it. Then tighten enough to not leak.
DO NOT GORILLA torque that anode rod.
If you do, the next time you go to remove it you will be cussing that so and so who overtightened the rod last time...
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:34 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by nomad297 View Post
You use a die for pipe. You use a tap for fittings. Just saying.

Bruce
WHAT?? Die for pipe yes but on the outside. (You could use a tap on a pipe.) A tap is to clean up or start new threads on the inside of a part
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:48 PM   #15
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I had the same issue last year when I bought a replacement anode made by Camco. The threads were not tapered even though the rod was listed as being compatible with a suburban water heater. I wasn't comfortable with only a few threads screwed in. The heater is right where people like to sit under the awning. I had visions of my daughters getting scalded when the rod popped. I ordered one straight from Suburban. That rod screwed right in after I cleaned out the crud with a round wire brush.
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:55 PM   #16
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Hard to see the taper on a large pipe fittings but i am sure it was tapered. If you have part #s i would be more than happy to compare the two and let Camco be aware of this.
Thanks
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Old 09-08-2016, 02:41 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by mike.t View Post
WHAT?? Die for pipe yes but on the outside. (You could use a tap on a pipe.) A tap is to clean up or start new threads on the inside of a part
I guess I should just keep my mouth shut. As a plumber and gasfitter for over three decades I have become accustomed to using our terminology which, apparently, isn't global. In the hundreds of miles of steel pipe that I have installed, I have never tapped a pipe with threads. Now, branches off of water mains are a different thing, but those threads are nothing like the threads we are talking about here.

I was just being a smartass when I quoted youroo and I meant no offense.

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Old 09-08-2016, 02:55 PM   #18
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I also have never tapped a pipe for threads but theoretically you could.
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Old 09-08-2016, 02:58 PM   #19
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I guess I should just keep my mouth shut. As a plumber and gasfitter for over three decades I have become accustomed to using our terminology which, apparently, isn't global. In the hundreds of miles of steel pipe that I have installed, I have never tapped a pipe with threads. Now, branches off of water mains are a different thing, but those threads are nothing like the threads we are talking about here.

I was just being a smartass when I quoted youroo and I meant no offense.

Bruce
None taken....also a plumber (retired now...yaa!) for over 30 years, and I never tapped the inside of a piece of pipe either. I guess it's just best to let this thread "die!"
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