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Old 04-14-2015, 08:41 PM   #11
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 454
I de-winterized on Friday. Too cold to do it any sooner. We left on vacation Sunday morning. When I attempted to fill the Suburban hot water tank Friday, I would keep trying the pressure relief valve to see if water was in the tank. The PR valve never released any water. After about an hour I began to suspect the the valve was not functioning and removed the anode rod and found that the tank was full of water. I believe the PR valve has failed. I had no time to replace the valve before we left.

When we got to our CG monday I hooked up to the CG water supply and shore power. I set the hot water tank for electric. Monday evening I took a nice warm shower but when my wife went to shower several hours later she had only cold water. (I heard about that!) I was not running the pump because I am on the CG water system. I suspect that we drained the HW tank empty.

1) Is it possible that the hot water tank did not fill without the pump because of a defective PR valve? I'm pretty sure I burned the heating element. Today I checked the "reset" elements and they appear undamaged.

2) I wanted to turn the electric switch off and just use propane. I could hardly move the switch. Is there some way to damage the switch if the heating element is burned out?

Because of this forum I have learned how to replace the heating element. I don't understand why the switch will barely budge. The propane heating is working fine.

Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.

2013 Rockwood Mini Lite 2109S
2006 Dodge Durango Hemi 5.7
Equal-i-zer WDH
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:06 AM   #12
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Location: Where the camper is
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Some switches are hard to flip. And some wear out. Had to change at least five on this unit. One was the ceiling lights on the control panel and others on the lights themselves.

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Old 04-15-2015, 10:36 AM   #13
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Posts: 819
Suburban switches seize all the time...

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heater, hot water, suburban, water, water heater

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