Suburban Hot Water Heater Anode Socket Size ?

pdchristensen · 10-03-2012, 09:05 AM

Has anyone recently removed the anode on there hot water tank ? I just want to verify the socket size was 1 & 1/16 ?

I am on way home from work and was hoping to pick up the right tools without having to go home first to measure the anode socket requirment.

youroo · 10-03-2012, 09:15 AM

1-1/16 , 6 point soc. Youroo!!

pdchristensen · 10-03-2012, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by youroo

1-1/16 , 6 point soc. Youroo!!

thanks Youroo....you saved me a trip home. I owe you at least $5.00 for gas.

joelek · 10-03-2012, 07:09 PM

Just pulled mine over the weekend. Been running it every weekend for 1 or 2 days since July 4th. It looked almost like brand new still. Now I'm even happier about the water quality at my RV resort. Woohoo! Oh ya, it's a Suburban 10gal DSI.

**Herk7769** · 10-03-2012, 07:23 PM

Just pulled mine this afternoon. Still perfect (it was new last fall). There was a lot of white "goo" on it (calcium I think) but it washed right off and more goop came out with the flush.

troyt · 10-03-2012, 07:34 PM

Too funny. I just pulled mine last night for kicks. Two year and about 3/4 to the good. Still have one as a backup.

taxbuster · 10-07-2012, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by youroo

1-1/16 , 6 point soc. Youroo!!

I've been trying to pull mine (but discovered that the size socket that I had was 1/16" too small....sigh).

But I have a question -- mine looks like it has a small screw on the centre of it -- what is that about?

Also, tried to loosen the thing with a wrench/vise grip but no joy. Shouldn't it be just a little tight and not jammed right on?

Thanks - a mystified Canuck where it's going to get really cold, really soon....

Mark and Linda · 10-07-2012, 09:28 PM

I use a 1 1/16 Cobalt 6 point that I bought at Lowe's. It was under 6 bucks....screw might be where the anode attaches to the fitting.

taxbuster · 10-07-2012, 09:37 PM

Ah - K. Thanks Mark and Linda. That makes sense. Will go out hunting tomorrow, though it's Canadian Thanksgiving and I'm in a small town.

VinceU · 10-07-2012, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taxbuster

I've been trying to pull mine (but discovered that the size socket that I had was 1/16" too small....sigh).

But I have a question -- mine looks like it has a small screw on the centre of it -- what is that about?

Also, tried to loosen the thing with a wrench/vise grip but no joy. Shouldn't it be just a little tight and not jammed right on?

Thanks - a mystified Canuck where it's going to get really cold, really soon....

We used zinc anodes in shell and tube heat exchangers. Sometimes the anode comes with a threaded plug because it was drilled up to the anode material beyond the securing nut. The purpose was you could pull the small plug in a maintenance session and if water came out you knew the anode was used up (it reached the useful life. If no water you could continue to use it. I also think the Atwood style heater certain vendors sold anodes with a pet cock in the end, same purpose. Real life, not very useful. Teltale would leak at 50% and once removed too late to see the early warning.

**Herk7769** · 10-07-2012, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taxbuster

I've been trying to pull mine (but discovered that the size socket that I had was 1/16" too small....sigh).

But I have a question -- mine looks like it has a small screw on the centre of it -- what is that about?

Also, tried to loosen the thing with a wrench/vise grip but no joy. Shouldn't it be just a little tight and not jammed right on?

Thanks - a mystified Canuck where it's going to get really cold, really soon....

OK, Advice from my father: "never use vice grips on something you don't want to throw away if it does not work out"

A photo of the anode would help. If you have an Atwood water Heater it may just be a drain plug and not an anode.

taxbuster · 10-08-2012, 01:12 PM

Finally borrowed a 1 1/16" socket, found an adapter from 3/8" > 1/2" for the socket, and still had to use a length of pipe over the socket handle to get enough leverage to undo the anode. (Too true, the vise grips were useless.)

...and, of course, I got soaked.

Oh well, lesson learned!!

ret2006 · 10-10-2012, 02:12 PM

I have a 12 gallon Suburban water heater. Going to buy an anode rod and see that there is an aluminum and a magnesium rod.

Can't find anything that says to use one or the other.

Which one should I get?

**Herk7769** · 10-10-2012, 03:00 PM

Magnesium is more reactive than aluminum, but both protect the iron in your boiler very well. The magnesium rod won't last as long.

(If you file it into tiny pieces and toss a match in it; it is very cool though!)

B47 · 10-10-2012, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

Magnesium is more reactive than aluminum, but both protect the iron in your boiler very well. The magnesium rod won't last as long.

(If you file it into tiny pieces and toss a match in it; it is very cool though!)

Not only by filing it into tiny pieces and starting a fire, but if you can ever a video of a large aircraft wheel (s) catching fire from an overheated brake, you will see a large fire.

**Herk7769** · 10-10-2012, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B47

Not only by filing it into tiny pieces and starting a fire, but if you can ever a video of a large aircraft wheel (s) catching fire from an overheated brake, you will see a large fire.

"Missed it by That Much"

My Class C mishap - blown tire on landing.

joelek · 10-10-2012, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ret2006

I have a 12 gallon Suburban water heater. Going to buy an anode rod and see that there is an aluminum and a magnesium rod. Can't find anything that says to use one or the other. Which one should I get?

Magnesium is plan A. Aluminum is plan B. Read why here.
Anode Rod, Magnesium or Aluminum ? [Archive] - Heartland Owners Forum
Ya I know I just dropped the Fbomb with that Heartland link. But in the spirit of helping our fellow Forest River owners out......I just had to do it.

j2detroit · 10-10-2012, 08:12 PM

I pull mine at the end of the season every year when I drain and flush clean the rod up a little the reuse next season we usually get 3-4 seasons out of it and then I just put in a new one

Mark and Linda · 10-10-2012, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

"Missed it by That Much"

My Class C mishap - blown tire on landing.

RT. Rear near the SPR panel...? Was the manifold drained?

B47 · 10-10-2012, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

"Missed it by That Much"

My Class C mishap - blown tire on landing.

Yepp - that is what happens when mag wheels caught fire.

Glad you were not hurt - crew members OK also?

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