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Old 05-16-2015, 01:26 PM   #11
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If you have electric and propane on the water heater you may want to turn them both on when you shower so there is faster recovery. Then turn the propane back off for normal use, use the campsite's electricity.
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Old 05-16-2015, 01:49 PM   #12
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Maybe change the shower head to a water-saving type?


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Old 05-16-2015, 02:45 PM   #13
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You might can test that by pass valve by first making sure that the water heater is turned off and not being powered by propane or the electric heating element. (This is just for safety reasons).

Now you will close the cold water inlet valve and hot water outlet valve at the water heater. Leave the bypass closed too. Now you shouldn't have any pressure really when you turn on any of the hot water taps in your trailer....since there should be no way for the hot water line to be pressurized since the heater is shut off and the bypass valve is shut off.

If you are getting pressure out of your hot water line taps, then that would be an indication that possibly the cold water is being able to get into the hot water lines thru a faulty bypass valve. I don't think it would need to be a lot of pressure, but you should be able to tell if it's happening....and go from there.

Who knows, it could be something a simple as the handle being broken on the bypass valve and it's not turning the valve inside.

I would think using the above procedures, that you could leave a hot water tap on and open/close the bypass valve to see if water flows/stops.
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Old 05-16-2015, 02:52 PM   #14
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Aaah, good suggestion. I assumed RC08 meant the water went cold after 3 minutes of showering...but they might have meant washing dishes.

Many times though, the inside shower wand has the drip feature that lets you know the taps are still on, even if shut off at the wand....since the water is dripping out of it.
My factory shower had a positive shutoff on the shower head and I switched to the Oxygenic with the trickle shutoff which I immediately threw the trickle shutoff in the trash and replaced it with a positive shut off.
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Old 05-17-2015, 12:35 PM   #15
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thanks wmtire

wmtire,
thanks for the great illustration on water pipes and bypassing. A lot of us are confused about all that and your posts really help.
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Old 05-17-2015, 02:29 PM   #16
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check for a "mixer" valve in the lines. It may need adjusting. Had that problem with the new Sanibel.
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:18 PM   #17
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Connection

Make sure connections to WH are not reversed. Cold to cold. Hot to hot. Also check thermostat.
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:24 PM   #18
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I was going to suggest check the thermostat??????? Water on startup should be at least 160 degrees, which is really HOT.
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:30 PM   #19
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the water is actually to hot if left idle it starts to lift the relief valve just a little and starts dripping
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:43 PM   #20
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I was going to suggest check the thermostat??????? Water on startup should be at least 160 degrees, which is really HOT.
Most water heaters come from factory with 130° hi limits on both gas and 110V and can be replaced with 142° hi limits .
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