Suburban SW10DEL water heater performance

[Pavement Tested]

Trailer is a 2018 FR Stealth TSG2910. Purchased in August of 2017 with a 7 year warranty. I took it out camping a handful of times from Sept thru Oct 2017 and then moved into it full time in Nov 2017.

I've done some searching and reading here and found what I believe is my first issue. I'll know in the morning when I have time to pull things apart.

First issue: My propane ignitor is intermittent. It started in May and has gotten worse as time progresses. As indicated in the linked threads below, the propane valve will open with an audible "clunk" but will not be preceded by the "tick, tick, tick, tick" of the ignitor. It will cycle 3 times and the DSI FAULT light will light on the master switch panel. If I cycle the WH switch in the panel it will usually come on. I have also tried giving the control box a tap (it's easily accessible under the kitchen sink) while the WH is going thru it's cycles to light and it will work. I grow concerned because today as I was doing dishes I heard and felt a loud WHOOMP as it lit, like propane was supplied before the ignitor hit and when it did it lit a large excess of gas. I actually went outside to make sure the cover hadn't been blown off the side of the trailer and there was a definite smell of propane in the air.

These 2 threads are very helpful if you're having ignitor issues:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...-138845-2.html

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1559917


Second issue: I originally thought I had a 6 gallon unit because I can run out of hot water in 1 shower or when doing dishes from dinner. I take "combat showers" so the water does not run the entire time I'm in and there's no way I use a total of 10 gallons of water while I'm in there for 6 minutes or so. The water is good and hot until it is not. I can hear the propane kick on (given it's working properly) but it doesn't keep up with the demand and takes a while to get back up to a decent temp.


So, what gives? I think 10 gallons of hot water mixed with cold water should be more than sufficient to take 1 shower or do 1 round of dinner dishes. Has anyone else had this issue? Were you able to fix it? How did you fix it?


Notes: All the valves are lined up correctly (bypass is shut), neither of the thermostat trips have ever tripped and I've tried the WH on both propane and electric with the same results.


I've been kicking around the idea of getting an on demand unit but have much more reading to do on that subject. It seems there are plenty of issues with those as well and I want to make sure it's the right decision before pulling the trigger. I am looking at living in my trailer for another year while I buy land and build my wife the house of her dreams.

[A32Deuce]

Do you use the electric side of the heater also. I leave the electric on and use gas for showers and dishes. That's 2 showers. May want to check for nests on gas side. Some insects are attracted to propane smell.

[Bama Rambler]

As Deuce eluded to, check the burner tube and orifice for debris, webs, etc.. Even soot will affect the operation of the burner.

As for running out of hot water quickly, you may be using more water than you think, or there may be a valve or check valve leaking by.

How long does it take the heater to recover once you've ran out of hot water?


The tankless units are good once you get them and yourself dialed in. Be sure to do lots of research on the model that people are happiest with.

[KenandCarol]

Originally Posted by Pavement Tested

So, what gives? I think 10 gallons of hot water mixed with cold water should be more than sufficient to take 1 shower or do 1 round of dinner dishes. Has anyone else had this issue? Were you able to fix it? How did you fix it?

I have an Atwood 6 gallon with electric and gas. My wife and I take back-to-back showers and not the navy type. Full water flow through the whole shower. We have never run out of hot water doing this. I have done what A32Duece does and run electric and propane concurrently, but have also done this with electric only and propane only and don't run out of heat. We did switch to an Oxygenics shower head so maybe that helped. I turn off the shower (2nd in line) with hot water to spare.

[A32Deuce]

X2! Do the same for the past 6 years.

[Scrapper]

One thing I did not see mentioned is if you have a outside shower make sure the valves are closed. If the button on the shower head is off but the valves are open you will be mixing cold water into the hot water line.

[Pavement Tested]

I have inspected the burner system multiple times and it is clear.

I have not used the WH on both gas and electric. I could try it but I don't think it will solve the issue.

I also don't think that the bubble in the WH is too big. I actually get a small stream out of the pressure relief when the water is almost full hot. I restore the bubble every couple of months and when I do, the relief doesn't leak.

Maybe I'm more of a water buffalo than I thought. My wife says she gets thru a shower just fine. I think she combat showers but I haven't paid attention.

On demand research...here I come!

[jeff64]

Have you tried cleaning the mounting and hardware where the ignitor is attached? You have to loosen and remove the gas tube where it connects at the orifice and tube. Remove the nut holding the ignitor in place and set the ignitor to the side. Wire brush the ignitor mounting plate, the stud at the burner opening and the nut and reassemble it all. I've seen a lot of corrosion at that point, and have success at restoring operation when you have spark at the ignitor and it don't stay lit. 4-6Kv will get through a mediocre ground but I don't believe 750 mv will get back to the board as a flame presence signal with a crummy ground.. Give it a shot, cost you nothing and won't take you more than 15 min. before you condemn the board I am assuming the 10 gal is basicly laid out like a 6 gal Do post your results eh!

[Pavement Tested]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

One thing I did not see mentioned is if you have a outside shower make sure the valves are closed. If the button on the shower head is off but the valves are open you will be mixing cold water into the hot water line.

Lol! No, the outside shower valves are not open with the shower head slide valve shut. I don't know about you but the slide valve on every shower head in an RV that I have ever encountered leaks like a sieve. They don't fully stop flow of the water, they simply curtail the flow to a trickle.

Originally Posted by jeff64

Have you tried cleaning the mounting and hardware where the ignitor is attached?

I have removed the ignitor, cleaned it, inspected and reinstalled it including the mating surfaces to ensure a good ground. That was the first thing I did when I started having issues.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Pavement Tested

Lol! No, the outside shower valves are not open with the shower head slide valve shut. I don't know about you but the slide valve on every shower head in an RV that I have ever encountered leaks like a sieve. They don't fully stop flow of the water, they simply curtail the flow to a trickle.

I have removed the ignitor, cleaned it, inspected and reinstalled it including the mating surfaces to ensure a good ground. That was the first thing I did when I started having issues.

Many people have found the valves open when they have a problem running short of hot water. It's more common than you think. And not having the bypass valves set for summer use is the most common cause.

[mwdilday]

I had a Girard tankless and they are junk and nobody works on them. I pulled mine and put in a 6 gallon (wanted 12 but didn’twant to cur a bigger opening) suburban and now I am lovin life. The Girard does not work like any water heater I have ever used. I do have a tankless at home and it is great so I am not anti tankless.